25-PDVC Vacuum Error

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divotdug

New Member
Dec 27, 2010
4
Central MD
I have been getting E1 errors on my stove. I have given it a good cleaning and checked the vacuum hoses. Not sure what else I should be checking. Is there some sort of checklist I should be using Is there a way to test the vacuum switches? Is there a way to temporarily bypass the switches?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Did your "cleaning" include removing the combustion blower & cleaning the vanes on it and also vacuum/brush the exhaust plenum out that the motor/blower sits in? If it's plugged with ash, that could be the issue too. Get replacement gasket before removing the blower.

Here is the checklist from Englander of possible causes for an "E-1" code:

Common causes for E-1 codes (check these; more information is below this):
1. Exhaust blower not coming on when stove is turned on. If not, check the blower itself and its wires.
2. Blocked flue pipe: check the flue pipe for obstruction and clean.
3. Cracked vacuum hose connection at the exhaust housing: this hose can crack if the stove has been run hot and/or has not been cleaned as much as it should be.
4. Loose wiring connection: on the switch and the other ends where they connect at the bottom of the control board.
5. Issue after component replacement: If any associated component such as the vacuum switch has been replaced, ensure that the replacement component has been wired correctly in the “normally open†position, and that the vacuum hose is connected to the “negative†port (the lower, off-white colored connector).

If everything mentioned above is as it should be the, Vacuum Switch itself is bad and should be replaced.

www.englanderstoves.com/help/PelletStove/ecodes04.html
 
You can also make certain that you aren't venting into the prevailing wind and that you aren't running any heavy air suckers in the house.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
You can also make certain that you aren't venting into the prevailing wind and that you aren't running any heavy air suckers in the house.

would have to be an uninterrupted 20 second blast of wind strong enough to overcome the exhaust blower, the board has a built in "timer" so to speak to prevent gusts from tripping the sensor.

the negative pressure possibilities would be moot if OAK is installed, and it would have to move a heck of a lot of air to depressurize to that extent.

my sequence
1. check vent for ash buildup, as well as the exhaust fan impeller
2. pull cover and check vac hoses for dryness or cracking , at the exhaust housing, also check the metal "stint, or tube" for restriction , then follow the hose to the switch , check the wires for good connection both at the switch and at the bottom of the board.
3. if al these things are as they should be the vac switch is defective
 
mine did this the other day after i cleaned it i must have plugged the line to the exhaust blower
i let it cool down , removed the line from the vac. switch and blew into the hose , hooked it back
up and she"s as good as new
 
stoveguy2esw said:
...

would have to be an uninterrupted 20 second blast of wind strong enough to overcome the exhaust blower, the board has a built in "timer" so to speak to prevent gusts from tripping the sensor.

Mike, you are making an assumption about what was going on at the OPs place ....

Things weren't very nice yesterday in a lot of places, there were very long periods of time with winds well in excess of 35 miles per hour.

stoveguy2esw said:
the negative pressure possibilities would be moot if OAK is installed, and it would have to move a heck of a lot of air to depressurize to that extent.

Yes that would be true if an OAK was in fact installed. It isn't always the case, once again even though a manual says to install an OAK, not all people do.
 
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