3' horizontal run ok?

tutu_sue Posted By tutu_sue, Aug 18, 2009 at 5:11 AM

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  1. tutu_sue

    tutu_sue
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    Okay here goes nothing. I made this jpeg from the Visio drawing I did. I hope it works, you may have to zoom in though.
     

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  2. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce
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    I'm hoping to use a 3' section on Supervent 6" double wall pipe through a wall thimble to get me to where I need to be before I take the chimney up. Is that to long of a horizontal run? There will be about 16' of vertical pipe after that 3' run. Other than draft issues, would there be any other issues or concerns? What about safety?

    Thanks
    Chris
     
  3. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce
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    Thanks. Yeah, I plan on using a T. This 3' section will be double wall class A that will run from one interior romm into another interior room. Then into a T and wall support, and up through the roof from there. Goofy setup, but this will allow us to put the new Mansfield exactly where we want it in the house.
     
  4. DAKSY

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    Once again, you're gonna hafta build a chase around the Class A in the other room to meet code...
    Don't forget to put the Magic Heat thingie on your connector! 8-/
     
  5. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce
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    Huh? Magic Heat thingie? What the hell is that? Oh boy....
     
  6. edthedawg

    edthedawg
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    Daksy's jokin' with you, Deuce. Magic Heat = creosote-forming monster you donna wanna hava.
     
  7. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce
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    Ok.. Ok... Easy target. Is there a bigger concern of creosote with horizontal runs?

    Thanks
     
  8. Fsappo

    Fsappo
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    a Horizontal run is always going to slow the smoke down and increase the risk of creosote as well as lessen your draft. The 16' vertical and the fact that you have a great stove that burns clean would cause me to think you would be fine. If you notice sluggish draft post install, that may be a clue that you need to go a little higher with the chimney. Also, the glass on that stove should stay very clean if burning with dry wood. If you cant keep the glass clean, that may be another indicator that you may need more draft
     
  9. madison

    madison
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    Have a small rise to the "horizontal" section, there is enough play in the thimble so the class a passing thru it does not have to be perfectly level, i think 1/2" rise/foot is quoted somewhere in the stovepipe instructions.

    You can always add a section(s) of class A to the top if your draft is insufficient.
     
  10. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage
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    1/4" rise per foot of horizontal is required. We put ours closer to 1/2" and have no problem. Ours is about 2' horizontal.
     
  11. tutu_sue

    tutu_sue
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    I asked the same question in an email to Simpson and was told 2 foot at most to the tee. To get around the roof soffit, we used two 30 degree elbows and a 12" section. If you look in the Durvent catalog there is an offset table if you need to get around something. That's what I used to figure it out.
     
  12. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce
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    Nice! Thanks I'll check it out. Any chance I can get you to post or PM me a picture of your setup?

    Thanks again
    Chris
     
  13. tutu_sue

    tutu_sue
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    I posted to this thread last night, but the post date is back in August due to server update.
     
  14. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce
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    Checked it out. Awesome! Thanks for the info. Do you have any concern about leaves? I was thinking of doing the same thing, but I am affraid of leaves gathering around it and a possible fire hazard. If I go through the eve, there will be flashing to protect it. Any Thoughts?

    Thanks again!!
    Chris
     
  15. tutu_sue

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    The chimney runs outside the gable end of the house. The bottom of the tee cleanout about a foot and a half above grade and three feet above roofline so zero leaves or snow. The outside part of the chimney never gets warm cause it's cold outside. We put locking rings at those elbows for peace of mind.
     
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