30 NC concerns

[ruffrider]

Good???

 

[HammerheadC4]

I have those on my nc30...I'm happy with them, they replaced a couple of imperial thermometers.
I have single wall black pipe and place that one about 18 inches above the stove, I placed the stove top one right in the bend in the top plate.
I check them often with a IR gun, they seem pretty accurate.
It's my first season with the NC30, I heat a raised ranch from the basement, it keeps the upstairs in the mid to high 70's.
I usually load the stove with 5 to 6 splits, 3 or 4 N/S then 2 or 3 on top of them E/W
I hit 600 on the stove top often, turn the blower on and it drops the temp and cruises at 500 - 550

 

[Calentarse]

The first one I'm buying for stovetop. Second one is going on the stovepipe.

Those look nice, certainly easier to read from a distance than mine!

 

[quotejso]

I would say just burn the stove if not get something different as long as its safe. If you can turn down the air who care what the inside looks like. The fire and ash should prevent you from seeing the eyesore.

 

[ruffrider]

OK sounds good

 

[beatlefan]

Good luck with it. Most of us 30NC owners have had great luck with them. I will admit that it took a few months for me to really get to know the stove. It's nothing like the old Ben Franklin stove I grew up with.

 

[sportbikerider78]

I checked yesterday because I read this thread, and that plate does indeed lift on mine as well. I never noticed it. Now, it does go back to its original shape when cool and it does not lift as high as yours.

Interesting...but I assume it is intended to happen. Metal moves and grows when it gets hot. That is normal.

 

[quotejso]

I checked yesterday because I read this thread, and that plate does indeed lift on mine as well. I never noticed it. Now, it does go back to its original shape when cool and it does not lift as high as yours.

Interesting...but I assume it is intended to happen. Metal moves and grows when it gets hot. That is normal.

WHat plate? hell I just burn wood in mine. Other then not having a ash grate its pretty nice.

 

[Highbeam]

WHat plate? hell I just burn wood in mine. Other then not having a ash grate its pretty nice.

I rather enjoy my big honkin plate steel non-cat too. It was so cheap and can really make some heat.

 

[sportbikerider78]

WHat plate? hell I just burn wood in mine. Other then not having a ash grate its pretty nice.

The plate around the hood.

 

[Highbeam]

The plate around the hood.

aka the plate around the doghouse air inlet at the bottom of the loading door opening.

 

[quotejso]

I thought it was non functional or non essential.

 

[ruffrider]

Another question about the stove. Noticed for the first time today, that when I close the glass door, it looks like the back of the stove (blower end) stops burning but the front (dog house) is cranking away why? And the fan is off till 600° stove top temp. Thanks.

 

[sportbikerider78]

Air comes front to back so the wood with the most air will burn first. You don't want it all to light up at the same time.

 

[ruffrider]

Okay, I'm used to two different stoves that is why I ask. One was a soapstone H1 and the other was a Ashley wood circulator. I know none are remotely close but had to ask. Never really noticed it till now that the back basically shuts off. Thanks.

 

[blades]

Okay, I'm used to two different stoves that is why I ask. One was a soapstone H1 and the other was a Ashley wood circulator. I know none are remotely close but had to ask. Never really noticed it till now that the back basically shuts off. Thanks.

When you load the stove leave a small tunnel for the dog house air to travel back to the rear wall. This will cause a better preheat of the secondary air and get the secondaries going faster. Also it is not a good idea to load the stove right to the tubes ( manual says top of bricks ) reason of course is it needs the space to fire the secondaries- Got mine a little too full this morning #3 tube 15min. in was glowing red from the secondaries firing of #4 tube. #4 is the rear most tube and doesn't always fire that much - so this was a bit of a new experience and I've had the 30 for 5 years now. I do have different boards above the pipes( 1" thick vs the oem1/2", fit tight with no wiggle room) because of those the firebox runs at a higher temp than oem, although the external numbers are about the same- just a more complete combustion over a bit longer duration - haven't had dirty glass since I went to the thick boards. Note it gits loaded around 5 am and then reload around 6 pm - in the past the glass would be pretty well sooted up- fuel is mixed hardwoods at apx 15% moisture or possibly a bit drier.

 

[ruffrider]

Awesome thanks. Where did you get the 1" boards, and did you have to trim to fit? Thanks.

 

[sportbikerider78]

How did you get the boards in there?

 

[blades]

Awesome thanks. Where did you get the 1" boards, and did you have to trim to fit? Thanks.

From a local kiln and heat treat furnace building company - over 2000 deg temp rating. Might have been about a half sheet 4'x4' around $65 at the time some 7 or 8 years ago

 

[blades]

How did you get the boards in there?

Cut them to fit tight. removed #1 and #2 secondary tubes and of course reinstalled them.

 

[sportbikerider78]

Interesting. How do you remove the tubes?

 

[Highbeam]

Interesting. How do you remove the tubes?

On the left side of each tube, is a little machine screw that attaches the tube to the secondary manifold. Remove screw and the tube comes right out. I have to remove the front tube to remove the baffle boards for chimney sweeping.

 

[sportbikerider78]

Excellent,,thanks.

 

[ruffrider]

I really I want to know why I see all these flames in the front of the stove by glass door and no flames in the back at all just smoldering? I have never seen a wood stove do that.

 

[begreen]

Airwash air cascades down the glass to the base of the fire and is joined by boost air. As the back wood warms up and smokes, convection pulls it upward and there it ignites as it is mixed with secondary air.