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$300 splitter need pump info

Post in 'The Gear' started by swmowarren, Feb 5, 2009.

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  1. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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    just bought this and trying to find info on pump gpm pressure etc.not real pretty but works good so far.now if pics show up


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  2. jdemaris

    jdemaris New Member

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    I can't read the entire ID tag. Those style cast-iron Hydreco pumps used to be very common, and were used in all kinds of commerical and farm equipment. Several of my Cletrac bulldozers have the same style pump, so does one of my IH farm tractors. Also used hooked to PTOs on dump trucks, garbage trucks, etc. With that series pump, they all are contructed pretty much the same but come in many sizes. I've never seen a small one though. Size is rated by cubic inch displacement per revolution. A 2 cubic inch per rev pump is around 20 gallons per minute at 2000 RPM (that's a very general figure).

    The smallest I've seen would be a bit big for a 12 - 14 horse engine if hooked direct drive. How big is that kohler in the photo? A 2 cubic inch pump would need to be run at a reduction of somewhere around 1 to 4 to make 2000 PSI when hooked to a 12 horse engine. That would have the engine at 3600 RPM and pump turning at 900 RPM. That would also run a log splitter with a 4" bore cylinder at a reasonable cycle speed.

    You might find more info at the company website:

    http://www.hydreco.com/
  3. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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    engine should be 12 hp actually tag on it is a gravely but seems kohler made engines for all kinds of equip. when i looked up #'s it is a kohler k301 prob close to 40 years old.bought splitter from guy at work was made by a construction co.I'll check to see if I can read rest of the # on pump.It had sat in his shed for 5 years and soon as we got battery and gas fired right up.

    The other # on pump is serial PJ18054 along with model 1515D1C
  4. jdemaris

    jdemaris New Member

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    That is a 1.7 cubic inch per rev pump. 2000 PSI and 2800 RPM max. Rated 7 gallons per minute at 1000 RPM, 14 gallons per minute at 2000 RPM, and 19 gallons per minute at 2800 RPM.
  5. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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  6. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Tee off of the input to the pushing side of the cylinder. I don't think you have enough HP to run that pump at any kind of high pressure. If you have a big enough bore on the cylinder, it may work OK, but your probably not gonna hit 2500 psi with it.
  7. jdemaris

    jdemaris New Member

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    It would work okay if he could gear it down 1 to 4 ratio, or close. With 12 horse, that could make 2000 PSI pretty easy.

    I've still got the first splitter I ever built (40 years ago) with a 2.4 cubic inch pump coupled by belt-drive to a 7 horse Wisconsin engine. Hooked with a 1 to 6 ratio along with a 4 1/2" bore cylinder. Works a little slow and will stall the engine at 2200 PSI if you hold down steady on the control valve. A real piece of junk, but it does still work.

    This guy's pump is smaller and engine bigger. If it was mine, I'd buy a two-stage pump and hook it direct-drive to the motor. It would have all kinds of speed and power that way.
  8. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Yep, there would have to be a reduction because 12hp will not pull 14gpm at 2000 PSI. Just not enough grunt without the reduction. I second the motion for a good 2 stage pump.
  9. triptester

    triptester Feeling the Heat

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    Place the gauge between the pump and control valve. This position will give readings for all functions, extend,retract,and bypass. With gauge close to valve it is usually easy to read and generally protected.

    Attached Files:

  10. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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    thx for pic of gauge that will help lots- just ran out and checked outside of cylinder is 4.5" ram is 2.25". so far only ran it about 1/2 throttle and has split everything i put in it.just wanted to put a gauge on it and maybe a table so i don't have to keep picking up pcs to resplit
  11. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Very true, but unless you were trying to troubleshoot a problem, why would you be interested in the relatively low pressures of bypass and retract?
  12. triptester

    triptester Feeling the Heat

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    With gauge before the valve you can check for any binding when retracting. You can also set the bypass and detent pressures of the pump, valve and detent. Why put the gauge where you can only check one thing .
  13. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    "Detent Pressure" - yeah that would make sense if you had a need to alter it.

    I don't install mine there because with my config the gauge would be where alot of the "action" is with my hands, but I can see where it could be handy there.
  14. Jamess67

    Jamess67 Feeling the Heat

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    Lets see the rest of your splitter.. Splitter Porn...love it.

    Anyway Im getting ready to install a gauge too so will someone please make up my mind...lol thanks :-S
  15. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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    will be a bit got to upload pics.i'm on dialup so takes a while..
  16. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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  17. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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  18. swmowarren

    swmowarren New Member

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  19. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Yeah, I am thinking that rebuilding the push plate may be time well spent.

    By looking at the placement for everything, I believe triptesters gauge position makes the most sense.
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