just bought this and trying to find info on pump gpm pressure etc.not real pretty but works good so far.now if pics show up
$300 splitter need pump info
- Thread starter swmowarren
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
I can't read the entire ID tag. Those style cast-iron Hydreco pumps used to be very common, and were used in all kinds of commerical and farm equipment. Several of my Cletrac bulldozers have the same style pump, so does one of my IH farm tractors. Also used hooked to PTOs on dump trucks, garbage trucks, etc. With that series pump, they all are contructed pretty much the same but come in many sizes. I've never seen a small one though. Size is rated by cubic inch displacement per revolution. A 2 cubic inch per rev pump is around 20 gallons per minute at 2000 RPM (that's a very general figure).
The smallest I've seen would be a bit big for a 12 - 14 horse engine if hooked direct drive. How big is that kohler in the photo? A 2 cubic inch pump would need to be run at a reduction of somewhere around 1 to 4 to make 2000 PSI when hooked to a 12 horse engine. That would have the engine at 3600 RPM and pump turning at 900 RPM. That would also run a log splitter with a 4" bore cylinder at a reasonable cycle speed.
You might find more info at the company website:
http://www.hydreco.com/
The smallest I've seen would be a bit big for a 12 - 14 horse engine if hooked direct drive. How big is that kohler in the photo? A 2 cubic inch pump would need to be run at a reduction of somewhere around 1 to 4 to make 2000 PSI when hooked to a 12 horse engine. That would have the engine at 3600 RPM and pump turning at 900 RPM. That would also run a log splitter with a 4" bore cylinder at a reasonable cycle speed.
You might find more info at the company website:
http://www.hydreco.com/
engine should be 12 hp actually tag on it is a gravely but seems kohler made engines for all kinds of equip. when i looked up #'s it is a kohler k301 prob close to 40 years old.bought splitter from guy at work was made by a construction co.I'll check to see if I can read rest of the # on pump.It had sat in his shed for 5 years and soon as we got battery and gas fired right up.
The other # on pump is serial PJ18054 along with model 1515D1C
The other # on pump is serial PJ18054 along with model 1515D1C
swmowarren said:
That is a 1.7 cubic inch per rev pump. 2000 PSI and 2800 RPM max. Rated 7 gallons per minute at 1000 RPM, 14 gallons per minute at 2000 RPM, and 19 gallons per minute at 2800 RPM.
great thx!! now where is best place to plumb in the pressure gauge b4 control valve or close to cylinder?heres pic of whole splitter
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/mowarren/splitter.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/mowarren/splitter.jpg
Tee off of the input to the pushing side of the cylinder. I don't think you have enough HP to run that pump at any kind of high pressure. If you have a big enough bore on the cylinder, it may work OK, but your probably not gonna hit 2500 psi with it.
Jags said:
It would work okay if he could gear it down 1 to 4 ratio, or close. With 12 horse, that could make 2000 PSI pretty easy.
I've still got the first splitter I ever built (40 years ago) with a 2.4 cubic inch pump coupled by belt-drive to a 7 horse Wisconsin engine. Hooked with a 1 to 6 ratio along with a 4 1/2" bore cylinder. Works a little slow and will stall the engine at 2200 PSI if you hold down steady on the control valve. A real piece of junk, but it does still work.
This guy's pump is smaller and engine bigger. If it was mine, I'd buy a two-stage pump and hook it direct-drive to the motor. It would have all kinds of speed and power that way.
jdemaris said:
Yep, there would have to be a reduction because 12hp will not pull 14gpm at 2000 PSI. Just not enough grunt without the reduction. I second the motion for a good 2 stage pump.
triptester
Feeling the Heat
thx for pic of gauge that will help lots- just ran out and checked outside of cylinder is 4.5" ram is 2.25". so far only ran it about 1/2 throttle and has split everything i put in it.just wanted to put a gauge on it and maybe a table so i don't have to keep picking up pcs to resplit
triptester said:
Very true, but unless you were trying to troubleshoot a problem, why would you be interested in the relatively low pressures of bypass and retract?
triptester
Feeling the Heat
With gauge before the valve you can check for any binding when retracting. You can also set the bypass and detent pressures of the pump, valve and detent. Why put the gauge where you can only check one thing .
"Detent Pressure" - yeah that would make sense if you had a need to alter it.
I don't install mine there because with my config the gauge would be where alot of the "action" is with my hands, but I can see where it could be handy there.
I don't install mine there because with my config the gauge would be where alot of the "action" is with my hands, but I can see where it could be handy there.
Jamess67
Feeling the Heat
Lets see the rest of your splitter.. Splitter Porn...love it.triptester said:
Anyway Im getting ready to install a gauge too so will someone please make up my mind...lol thanks :-S
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/mowarren/wedge.jpg
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/mowarren/ramsize.jpg
and yes the spots on push plate are fresh.tried to see how much it would push on a split from black walnut cut 1/2 thru sideways b4 it started to bend the pushplate.I may need to rebuild that of course welds on it were not that great.
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f23/mowarren/ramsize.jpg
and yes the spots on push plate are fresh.tried to see how much it would push on a split from black walnut cut 1/2 thru sideways b4 it started to bend the pushplate.I may need to rebuild that of course welds on it were not that great.
Yeah, I am thinking that rebuilding the push plate may be time well spent.
By looking at the placement for everything, I believe triptesters gauge position makes the most sense.
By looking at the placement for everything, I believe triptesters gauge position makes the most sense.
- Status
