372xp rebuild/refurbish.

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This is what I see on the weedeater site.. I still see $109??

Class A Husqvarna 365 ... Class A Husqvarna 365 ... Home Home View cart View cart

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Class A Husqvarna 365 371 372 big bore cylinder and piston assembly 52mm ProductCode: WEMCY006 Our Price: $115.99 Sale Price: $105.99 Savings: $10.00

Quantity in Stock4

Quoted from page as I can't figure screenshot out for this site?
 
Press your power button and your volume up (or down if up doesnt work) that should capture a screenshot on your device for any page.

As for the price. I found that today and posted it. Will look again.
 
Just looked again. Click on chainsaw cyl kits... Then just scroll down. The 3rd selection down is the 365/371/372 BB kit. Don't select hy way. Just scroll down from the choices of manufacturer.
 
This is from the mobile site. But there is an $89.99 and a $99.99 kit ($99 w/ Cabers).

Screenshot_2013-09-03-21-32-40.png Screenshot_2013-09-03-21-32-21.png Screenshot_2013-09-03-21-31-54.png
 
Clemson, if that cylinder has a wire coil type repair then you should be able to remove it, drill the hole to size and use a sleeve type repair kit and save the OEM cylinder.
 
Not sure what kind of helix oil if any. Its pretty stripped. I don't see anything but stripped threads? Put a bunch of pics cause there from my phone and not that good.
 

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Thoughts on an air leak could be from a loose wobbly spark plug?? With a hack job helicoil. Or does the air leak have to be on tho bottom end?
 
Thoughts on an air leak could be from a loose wobbly spark plug?? With a hack job helicoil. Or does the air leak have to be on tho bottom end?
Very well could be the plug threads. Hell, I've seen the plug itself leak. Even an air leak at the muffler gasket is harmful.
 
The top ring was stuck in and the real scuffing was on the front of the piston. The muffler side.
 
OK just picked up another 372xp parts saw. Sprocket is off it and chain cover and has a bent handle. But it cranks and runs.a bit smoky. Wondering about piston and rings? But if cyl is OK I'm happy.

As is if u rev it the clutch or whatever you look at on the side will sling out and hit the brake band and smoke???
Not a big deal as this one at most will donate some screws and C/P.

Anyway here is a pic. Looks like a 2010 model. And this one has busted brake handle too. Common I guess when they toss in the truck?
 

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Id be pulling the plug and the muff immediately to check. If its good? Buy a new set of Caber Rings and do a pressure test (make sure this one dont seize).
 
The plan is to check piston through muff. If both good I will just rearing it and go.
 
It may have good compression (rings good)?? Do you have a good compression gauge? I'd trade you a gauge for a Spline tool?
 
Nope no gauge. Its always on the short list from harbor freight but always has gotten bumped. But deal ;-)
 
It runs and idles as is. Seems fine. Its just jacked up cosmetically.
 
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The original I have was also missing an exhaust gasket. I thought there should be one but not ever messed with a husky so waaent sure. That also was a problem on the other one I had that could cause some leaks!
 
Sounds like you need a clutch drum and a brake handle for this one and you might be good to go? Making any kind of guess about cylinder/ring condition without a compression tester is subjective at best.
 
I have the drum. Not a bearing he said went in their. One bar stud on this one is busted. This handle is in better shape. Need to swap the best of each saw over to one of them. I think this one will be the saw. Bar off other, and brake handle I bought but not sure of every thing else?
 

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Just got the sticker in the mail, thanks Dex. Maybe by end of weekend if not earlier I will have one saw cobbled together from the 2.!
 
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This new saw I got today's piston looks much better. But there are horizontal machine lines on the piston where it goes by the exhaust port in the center section the machine marks are worn smooth. Wouldn't really call it scored through. Compression. Tester is on way home with mechanic friend as I type
 
Second saw.
 

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OK, do I have to split the saw to get at replacing this stud. That holds the bar on, Tue rear stud is gone?
 

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