4" vent kit

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chrisasst

Minister of Fire
Aug 13, 2008
1,289
cortland ny
I can find a 3" vent kit, but I can't find a 4" vent kit. I was looking at vent pipes online and it figures to cost me $235 or so to replace my vent pipes to 4" with a vertical rise. Does this sound right..
 
Chris, have you tried calling some of the people on the forum that are in the business of selling vent pipe, like Eric at Kinsman, or WoodHeatStoves? I think you'd get a good deal, price wise as long as they knew you were on this forum. Eric at Kinsman has been a GREAT guy to work with and has always given me great prices.....I'm sure Dave Gault at Wood heat Stoves would do the same. They may be able to sell just what you need in individual parts cheaper than a "kit" elsewhere.

Or you could even try a place like Dynamitebuys.com
 
Thanks Pete, Oh by the way, Pete you look thirsty. Head to the fridge and get a cold one or two.

I can work you up a system, give me a call.
Eric
330-448-0300
 
A 4" system with a 4' rise with a starter, 6"lg, 3 to 4 tee, 4' lg, 90, wall thimble, 2 footer thru the wall & a jet cap will cost in excess of $500 if you go with Excel pellet vent...
I've got everything here in Troy if ya need it...
I spoze, tho, the question needs to be asked... WHY?
You shouldn't need 4" for most pellet stove UNLESS your
vent height is in excess of 15 FEET...
 
DAKSY said:
A 4" system with a 4' rise with a starter, 6"lg, 3 to 4 tee, 4' lg, 90, wall thimble, 2 footer thru the wall & a jet cap will cost in excess of $500 if you go with Excel pellet vent...
I've got everything here in Troy if ya need it...
I spoze, tho, the question needs to be asked... WHY?
You shouldn't need 4" for most pellet stove UNLESS your
vent height is in excess of 15 FEET...

I agree, what makes you think you need a 4" system?

Eric
 
Umm, well I am not sure...I was reading my manual and it says 4" will reduce the possibility of burn problems. ( I personally think I have a burn problem, maybe not IDK) I currently have direct vent, was looking to rise it up some to see if that helps also. Other than that, IDK...Just was looking for help with my burn..

On a side note....The heat must be so hot in my burn pot, because it melts and twists the pot. So what does this indicate..
 
chrisasst said:
Umm, well I am not sure...I was reading my manual and it says 4" will reduce the possibility of burn problems. ( I personally think I have a burn problem, maybe not IDK) I currently have direct vent, was looking to rise it up some to see if that helps also. Other than that, IDK...Just was looking for help with my burn..

On a side note....The heat must be so hot in my burn pot, because it melts and twists the pot. So what does this indicate..

Well, from my 10 years of pellet experience, the MAIN reason to have rise in you vent system is to allow for continued NATURAL DRAFT should the power fail. This will potentially preclude any smoke getting past your gaskets & into your home if this situation arises...
Like I said earlier, 4" is generally required for vent runs OVER 15 feet in height.
I will admit that I am not familiar with your KOZI stove, so maybe it's engineered differently than others...
Your burn pot is a pretty harsh environment - as is ANY burn pot - & metal, whether cast, forged or plate stock, can only take so much heat...
 
chrisasst said:
Umm, well I am not sure...I was reading my manual and it says 4" will reduce the possibility of burn problems. ( I personally think I have a burn problem, maybe not IDK) I currently have direct vent, was looking to rise it up some to see if that helps also. Other than that, IDK...Just was looking for help with my burn..

On a side note....The heat must be so hot in my burn pot, because it melts and twists the pot. So what does this indicate..

Can you post a picture of that burn pot, sounds to me that it really needs a better welding job, I doubt if it is actually melting but it is possible that the pot expands due to the heat from the pellet fire and that the pot will deform as a result. This can be caused by tack welds breaking or some missing. The point that would really warp would be around the igniter (this is a weak point), it would bulge into the pot and and if there weren't any welds close to that location it is likely to deform the pot and cause an air bypass which can result in a bad burn.
 
DAKSY said:
Well, from my 10 years of pellet experience, the MAIN reason to have rise in you vent system is to allow for continued NATURAL DRAFT should the power fail. This will potentially preclude any smoke getting past your gaskets & into your home if this situation arises...
Like I said earlier, 4" is generally required for vent runs OVER 15 feet in height.
I will admit that I am not familiar with your KOZI stove, so maybe it's engineered differently than others...
Your burn pot is a pretty harsh environment - as is ANY burn pot - & metal, whether cast, forged or plate stock, can only take so much heat...

I agree the only time I've ever heard to switch to 4" is when you reach a certain length. But the proper way to measure this is with Total Equivalent Length (TEL).

TEL gives higher weights to elbows and tees, whereas straight pipes use just their length. For instance a 45 elbow can reduce draft by as much as 15% giving it a TEL of 1-3'.

Using TEL, a system with few short straight pipes, but many elbows and a tee might need increasing to 4" to restore its proper draft.

Not all manufacturers use TEL to determine if you need to increase to 4", but this should help you understand the general concept of when to got to 4".
 
dac122 said:
I agree the only time I've ever heard to switch to 4" is when you reach a certain length. But the proper way to measure this is with Total Equivalent Length (TEL).

TEL gives higher weights to elbows and tees, whereas straight pipes use just their length. For instance a 45 elbow can reduce draft by as much as 15% giving it a TEL of 1-3'.

Using TEL, a system with few short straight pipes, but many elbows and a tee might need increasing to 4" to restore its proper draft.

Not all manufacturers use TEL to determine if you need to increase to 4", but this should help you understand the general concept of when to got to 4".

The actual figures to use to calculate EVL (equivalent vent length)are the following (An EVL that calculates out to more than 15 indicates a need to increase to the 4” pipe):

1’ of horizontal pipe = EVL of 1
1’ ” vertical ” = .5
45 degree bend = 2.5
90 ” ” = 5

And don't forget to add 5 if you have a "T" off the back of the stove.
 
according to my manual EVL:
90 degree = 5 evl
45 degree = 3 evl
each horizontal run = 1 evl per foot
each vertical run = .5 evl per foot
4" if evl is 15 or more...

I currently have (1) 45 = 3 evl
2 foot horiztonal = 2 evl

so I guess if 4" pipe and vertical run don't really don't performance than I don't need 4" correct?

Also is it allowed or be good to hook a 90 and 45 together. I was thinking instead of moving my current hole I would try to hook a 90 then 45 took my stove. ( or some configuration like thatmay be 2 45 angles, idk)
Would this be ok or would that block too much air.... I thought I have seen picture where some do this out side to bypass a roof or something.
 
Chris, it was kinda hard for me to really understand what you were trying to say in the above post, but bottom line, if the EVL comes out to less than 15, then there's no need to do it. Given that you seemingly have a very short horizontal direct vent out the side of the house, I can't see why that would cause any burning problems......there's virtually no restriction to the airflow.

Yes, you could hook a 90 & 45 together, but I would tend to think that since they were so close together, that instead of a combined EVL of 7.5 or 8, that combination might be closer to 9 or 10 due to the exhaust flow having to make so many direction changes in such a short distance, but that's just my opinion.
 
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