$50 pellet stove, update see post #60

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imacman said:
Chris,

since the heating season is starting to wind down, I'd forget about rushing to get this unit cleaned out in a hurry, to replace the Kozi.

Remove anything you can get to easily (blowers, auger motor, auger, vacuum switch w/ hose, etc) and clean them outdoors, and vacuum as much as you can get to, but that stove needs to be taken apart OUTSIDE as far as you can, and a combo of leaf blower, compressed air, brushes, etc used on every nook & cranny you can get to, to get it really clean. And maybe even a nice new paint job.

All the motors could also be tested for operation and lubed if possible.

Then you can re-assemble at your leisure, and give it a good test burn before bringing it in and installing. And the existing Kozi exhaust pipe can be checked and cleaned too.

Just my opinion.

I know it should be done outside, but this stove seems to be the heaviest of the three I have or hardest to move by my self or something. My father in law has a bad back and he is the only one I could ask for help and he can't... Amazon has a 400 lb hand truck for $80 May or may not work. It has a pretty small end on it. But if I buy anyting more my wife will kill me.
 
chrisasst said:
... Amazon has a 400 lb hand truck for $80 May or may not work. ..... But if I buy anyting more my wife will kill me.
How about a local rental center?
 
That thing with the two yellow wires is your Dial a fire controller. Under that electrical tape is a small circut board with some resitors and that the way it comes from Enviro. Personally i would put a fine dust bag in a shop vac and a soft bristle brush on the end of the hose and clean every inch of that stove, then power it up and see what work or doesn't.
 
I was actually just looking at enviro parts and saw that part with the electrical tape on it. Thats what I am currently doing, using my shop vac and cleaning it out. There is pet hair wrapped around the augur motor part that I need to get off which maybe why he said the augur quit, hoping it is not burned out.... I finally got the sde panels off tonight, there has to be another 4 inches or more of ash behind those.
 
If that caked-up blower is still good, you'll need to spend a fair amount of time scraping each and every one of its fins. I'd start with a good stiff little brass bristle brush (or stainless steel).
 
thanks, I was reading some of that today.... some good info there..

Need opinions.....When I am ready to put this stove back together at somepoint, I was thinking of getting new panels.

http://woodheatstoves.com/ef2-firebox-liner-winsl-p-9852.html

The current panels are caked on and a little rust, am I being silly by wanting new panels.
Or should I just scrub the heck out of the old ones and paint them?
 
If the panels are straight just scuff and paint as they won't be cheap from Enviro
 
[quote author="chrisasst" date="1298710679"]ok, here are some more pics of this dirty, pet hair infested stove....The second pics of the electronic wires, there is electrical tape around the plug in part that the yellow wires lead, any one know what this part is? I don't want to remove the electrical tape without someone looking at this pic first....Hopefully you can see what I am talking about....]

The electrical tape is factory and it covers the open contacts of the dial a fire switch which adjusts the timing delay of the auger timing box

Make sure the high-limit switch is not open. Which that much junk in the convection motor it is possible that the high limit tripped which rendered the stove "broken". I love high limit service calls. Kind of like getting paid to flick on a light switch.
 
Metal panels are easy to steel-wool, and they make spray paint that sticks to rust if you don't get it all off. The main enemy of paint on rust is water, and that won't be a factor when you're using it, especially if if you give it a coat of primer -which isn't necessary unless you remove a whole lot of original paint . I sanded and painted my used stove before bringing it indoors. It looked like new but the paint on the hot top section released vapors a little for a while, but not too bad.
 
Question...
Where the exhaust tube is fastened onto the exhaust fan housing thing, it looks like there was some silicone missed because there is a gap between there. Most definetly smoke would be able to leak out of that space. When I shine a flash light I can see the light inside the exhaust tube.. Can I use 500 degree high heat silicone and silicone it up.

Also, how does one remove the augur motor? I unscrewed it from the shaft, but it won't drop out. How do I hook it up to direct power?
 
chrisasst said:
Question...
Where the exhaust tube is fastened onto the exhaust fan housing thing, it looks like there was some silicone missed because there is a gap between there. Most definetly smoke would be able to leak out of that space. When I shine a flash light I can see the light inside the exhaust tube.. Can I use 500 degree high heat silicone and silicone it up.

Also, how does one remove the augur motor? I unscrewed it from the shaft, but it won't drop out. How do I hook it up to direct power?

Enviro seals that area with the red silicon rated for 800ºF. Scrape it down and clean with mineral spirits. Apply the silicon and your good to go! I check these area's at the start of each season to be sure there sealed.
 
Yea, the other sides have the red silicone, but the bottom part was never touched with it. So do I need to find 800 °F silicone or can I use 500 °F silicone which I have...
 
chrisasst said:
Yea, the other sides have the red silicone, but the bottom part was never touched with it. So do I need to find 800 °F silicone or can I use 500 °F silicone which I have...

Permatex ultra copper is rated at 800ºF. Worked great and available at any local Ace hardware store. HD or Lowes might have it too!
 
Rutland's Seal It Right (Black) is also rated to 800 degrees. A large number of hardware stores are apt to carry it.
 
It weighs a ton because it has a ton of dust bunnies that need to be sucked and blown out! Get them out and you might have to screw it to the floor to hold it down. WOW what a mess.
 
chrisasst said:
Question...


Also, how does one remove the augur motor? I unscrewed it from the shaft, but it won't drop out. How do I hook it up to direct power?

How about this?



I will go to the auto parts store tomorrow and get some ultra copper, it is rated for 700 °F though...
 
Enviro are know for sticking due to the locking bolt in that collar. Usally just some wiggling will get the auger to slowly come out. The worst one for me required removal of the auger shaft and put it in a vice and use a hammer and drift to drive them apart
 
"Also, how does one remove the augur motor? I unscrewed it from the shaft, but it won’t drop out. How do I hook it up to direct power?" Anyone have an answer to this part of Christasst's help request? Or a link?
 
The auger motors fit pretty tight in this model, you need to pry it off with a long handled screw driver. Get the drive between the set collar and the gear box and pry them aprat. Once you get it moving it will drop easier. Also make sure that the brass bushing is tight in the set plate. If it turns around or if you notice a little tee-pee of pellet dust under the auger motor then you will need a plate and bushing. $27.00 new, forget the part number. I think it's EF-503, not sure.
 
ok, I plugged the stove in for the first time and here are my findings...

When I plug it in the combustion fan automatically runs when I have the switch on manual, if I turn it to auto I think it stops, should this be happening. The only on off switch I see if for the convection fan blower. The augur did not turn, I finally pried it off and I couldn't turn it by hand until I took the motor apart then I could, but when the motor is together, it won't turn. This means it is dead right?
How do I know if an augur is counter clockwise or a clockwise turn, confused on that?
 
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