We will be replacing our Defiant NC with something else - probably an f600. We presently have 5' of 8" connector pipe to the ceiling, 6' of 8" double wall pipe through the attic and 11' of 8" class A chimney from the roof. The new stove will most likely require 6" connector. So, is it possible to use 6" connector to the ceiling box and leave the rest of our chimney alone? We have had no draft problems with our present set up. With all of the problems and tensions associated with our present stove, I really don't want to have any problems with our new set up.
6" connector to an 8" chimney?
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Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
It is not ideal but probably will work fine. As long as you have enough draft to keep the fire going. Good luck.
With 22' of flue straight up in the house, I would expect that it would work ok, especially if the stove is connected top exit.
schortie said:
Then why would you go with anything but what is recommended?
These guys know more than I do, but my thinking is that those gases are going to expand and cool as soon as they hit that 8" section, decreasing the draft and causing potential creosote accumulation. I'd bite the bullet and go with 6" all the way.
Per the manual, an 8" flue is within spec for the stove.
The chimney size should not be less than the cross-sectional area
of the flue collar, and not more than three times greater than the
cross-sectional area of the flue collar.
The fireclay flue liner must have a nominal size of 8” X 8”, and
should not be larger than 8” X 12”. If a round fireclay liner is to
be used it must have a minimum inside diameter of 6” and
not larger than 8” in diameter.
The chimney size should not be less than the cross-sectional area
of the flue collar, and not more than three times greater than the
cross-sectional area of the flue collar.
The fireclay flue liner must have a nominal size of 8” X 8”, and
should not be larger than 8” X 12”. If a round fireclay liner is to
be used it must have a minimum inside diameter of 6” and
not larger than 8” in diameter.
schortie said:
If you have double wall in your attic & NOT Class A, you are not to code & endangering yourself & everyone else in your home. You have to have Class A from the first penetration to the cap. If the attic portion is indeed Class A, then you can probably make the connection to the 8" with a 6 to 8 increaser.
A single-wall 6 to 8 is less than $30. Double-wall is about 2.5 times that...If you have drafting problems with that set-up, you can always drop a 6" liner down inside the 8" Class A to make it work.
Good catch Daksy, I was assuming that was double-wall Class A through the attic. If not, that would be bad.
Thanks for the replies - especially the quote from the f600 manual. I knew I could count on you guys for balanced and knowledgeable information.
We do have class A through the attic; sorry for the confusion. We just came back from a dealer who recommended a 6" to 8" adapter from the connecter to the ceiling box. It sure would make for an easier installation. We're continuing to weigh our options.
We do have class A through the attic; sorry for the confusion. We just came back from a dealer who recommended a 6" to 8" adapter from the connecter to the ceiling box. It sure would make for an easier installation. We're continuing to weigh our options.
Renovation
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schortie said:
Hi Schortie,
Can you give us an update on what chimney setup you went with, and how well it works? I'm pondering biting the bullet on putting in an 8" chimney for the Blaze King King, and wondering how the chimney would work with a 6" stove, if I ever went that route.
Thanks, and best wishes.
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