6039T Draft Error Light

[chieffan]

I bought a used 6039 stove that was supposed to be in good working condition. Wrong ! So far I have put on a new updated board, new agitator motor, new fan on switch, new pressure switch and a new high limit switch. The stove will no run if the pressure switch is connected in the circuit, but will run great bypassed. Flame burn looks good. Not much soot on the glass, adequate heat for the setting. Vent is 3" new p type vent with all joints sealed. 1ft. out of the stove into the clean out T, up 5 ft. into a 90° elbow, into a 3 ft. horizontal vent through a block wall with wind shield in place. Stove was thoroughly cleaned before it was ever started with the old A B C board. Removed thew room fan and draft fan, cleaned and oiled, reinstalled with Hi Temp silicone for sealer. Fresh air is from the room with a tube connecting the burn pot intake and the intake on the rear of the stove. Door gasket looks good, door closes tight. Factory tell me I have a drafting problem but not much help to tell me what to do to fix it besides sell new parts. After I put the tube between the fresh air intakes the stove did work properly without the error light for about 10 min. Then the error light was back. I am open to any and all suggestions as to where to go from here.

 

[Owen1508]

Yes it is an air issue. Since the door gasket is good. The next things to check are Glass Gasket,and to insure that the ash cleanouts are closed all the way, as well as tight and also cleaned behind the doors (that is a commonly missed place). You've tried it with the damper closed? 6039t....I guess it's a 6039tp (on a pedestal), is the ash drawer sealing good? What are the setting you are running on? It wouldn't hurt to also seal all the seams in the hopper. You have changed the pressure switch (hope you kept the old one as it may have been still good) is the clear hose free from blockage, also the nipple that connects the hose to the firebox check that for blockage. You can use a wire/hanger or something similar. 3 foot horizonal run seems long pictures would help . Your EVL is pretty high.

 

[chieffan]

Yes it is an air issue. Since the door gasket is good. The next things to check are Glass Gasket,and to insure that the ash cleanouts are closed all the way, as well as tight and also cleaned behind the doors (that is a commonly missed place). You've tried it with the damper closed? 6039t....I guess it's a 6039tp (on a pedestal), is the ash drawer sealing good? What are the setting you are running on? It wouldn't hurt to also seal all the seams in the hopper. You have changed the pressure switch (hope you kept the old one as it may have been still good) is the clear hose free from blockage, also the nipple that connects the hose to the firebox check that for blockage. You can use a wire/hanger or something similar. 3 foot horizonal run seems long pictures would help . Your EVL is pretty high.

Thanks for the reply. I appreciate any help I can get on this. The stove sits on 4 legs. The glass gasket looks good, but really how can you tell if it is sealing good or not? The two clean outs are closed off with the heavy steel angle that sits over the bottom openings and up against the clean out. No doors on this one and no indication there ever has been. Ash pan just slides in on two rails and is not sealed in any way and never has been that I can see. I don't have a damper. I think that part is controlled by the small holes in the fire pot. I have the old pressure switch and have switched back and forth with no change so the old one is probably good as you said. The hose and manifold is clean and clear. The instructions I downloaded state that a maximum of 4 ft horizontal run, which is what I am running. One foot out from the stove and 3 foot from the elbow through the 8" block wall which leaves 2' outside the structure. After standing off all night in a 60° basement I cleaned everything good with the vacuum. Turned the stove on and the draft error light went out right away. Stove ran for about 5 min. and the light stayed out. Put fire in the pot, turned the stove on and the error light cam on and stayed. I removed the side panel and the exhaust motor was real warm, almost hot. I don't think it should have been that warm for what little time it run with no heat to speak of. Right now I am leaning towards a defective exhaust fan motor. Going to try and find an RPM gauge I can put on the end of the motor shaft and check the rpn and see if it is at or near the 3000 is is supposed to be. The fast that it ran with no light to start with, and then got the light after it had run, tells me there is a problem with that motor. What are your thoughts?

 

[Owen1508]

Ok it not having the ash slides or the damper means it's an early run 6039HF (the one on 4 legs is a hf model HF=hearth focus and tp is pedestal just a sidenote). A lot of people prefer the ones without those so that's good. What are you running the Heat Range and Draft fan on? You may want to try the draft fan at 2 higher then the Heat Range you are running. You are correct you are within the maxium guidelines for install, in fact at the max.(4ft horizonal and two 90 degree bends) so the fan maybe struggling to exhaust. The fan speed is adjustable, in fact on it's default settings it is set up to run at 46% power on the low end heat range and 56% power on the high end heat range. It can be that it needs a boost to help with the higher EVL. So 2 setting over heat range may do the trick.(if this works we can adjust the settings to boost the fan all the time)
Another thought is it sounds like it's a below the grade install (basement?) it may be short on combustion air. To check this without doing a full house pressure test you can try cracking a window or outside door close to the stove to see if that helps (I'd try this first). The room where the stove is located might not be able to replenish the air lost from combustion. Simply it doesn't have enough air to properly maintain the correct pressure/draft. If this is the case an OAK is going to be the fix. If you search OAK in this forum you will find plenty of info.

 

[chieffan]

Ok it not having the ash slides or the damper means it's an early run 6039HF (the one on 4 legs is a hf model HF=hearth focus and tp is pedestal just a sidenote). A lot of people prefer the ones without those so that's good. What are you running the Heat Range and Draft fan on? You may want to try the draft fan at 2 higher then the Heat Range you are running. You are correct you are within the maxium guidelines for install, in fact at the max.(4ft horizonal and two 90 degree bends) so the fan maybe struggling to exhaust. The fan speed is adjustable, in fact on it's default settings it is set up to run at 46% power on the low end heat range and 56% power on the high end heat range. It can be that it needs a boost to help with the higher EVL. So 2 setting over heat range may do the trick.(if this works we can adjust the settings to boost the fan all the time)
Another thought is it sounds like it's a below the grade install (basement?) it may be short on combustion air. To check this without doing a full house pressure test you can try cracking a window or outside door close to the stove to see if that helps (I'd try this first). The room where the stove is located might not be able to replenish the air lost from combustion. Simply it doesn't have enough air to properly maintain the correct pressure/draft. If this is the case an OAK is going to be the fix. If you search OAK in this forum you will find plenty of info.

Thanks for the education. I need a lot of that on this. Heat range was set at 3. Exhaust fan was on 9. (High as it will go) It is in a basement with no windows, only a door. I have had the door open and the storm window up on the outside door. The basement is open (no walls), only entertainment center and shelving for dividers so to speak. The pipe was all new except for the 2- 1' pieces and the clean out. They were cleaned before installed. Can the exhaust speed be increased even though the read out is on 9? I have a new aftermarket fan on the way but can be returned if an increase in speed for this one will fix the problem. I think we are right on the edge of having enough exhaust to satisfy the switch, but just not quite enough to maintain it. The fan I believe is original so will need to be replaced eventually anyway. About everything else on the stove is new now. If we can increase that fan speed lets do it, OK ? Our elevation is right at 1274 or lower. That is airport elevation and we sit quite a bit lower than that.

 

[Owen1508]

9 is high on the draft fan. Ok to adjust the HE (high end) draft fan setting press the Draft Fan up arrow and the Aux up arrow at the same time and hold. You will see a number appear (should be 270) then release the buttons. That number is out of 500, 500 is max (100%) so 270 really is 56%. That is the speed at which the fan moves at 9. It's an 80 CFM fan so that should be about 45 CFM's. We can start by increasing that number to 320 (64%) to start. Remember that we want to creat just enough draft to exhaust the unit and give it proper combustion air. Too much and you'll lose more heat out the piping the required (lower eff.). To do this (once the 270 appears) use the Aux up/down arrows to adjust the number. Then press the ON button to save. That will adjust the HE fan speed (HR 9). We will also have to do the same for the LE (low end HR 1). It's a similar, press the draft fan down arrow and the aux down arrow together and hold. the default number that should appear is 230 (46%) let's increase that to 280 to start. Ok once you get those adjusted , try restarting the stove and running it at equal Heat range and Draft fan ( both on say 2). If the draft fan light starts blinking again slowly increase the draft fan speed to a number that will stop the blinking light. Start at two over then wait 3-5 mins and increase it to 4, etc. etc. If you get to 6 over and it still doesn't work let me know and we can jump the LE and HE fan speed again (by 50 each), and try again. The good news is that unit is so controlable/adjustable we can dial in the setting really well. If it truely is the orginial fan you may want to test it to see if it is still up to par (3000 rpm is correct). running an OAK still will help

 

[Owen1508]

Were all the other parts truely "bad"? The auger on that unit does take a lot of heat, but those thermo disks tend to last. The low limit (60T12) should test open, and the high limit (60T11) will test closed until heated to 170 Degrees then open(low limit will close at 110 degrees). The board you are better with the newer 4- digit one. The "ABC" board is older technology and limited with the adjustment it can do. Either way hang on to the parts that are still good as there will come a time to need them if you plan on having the stove for a while.

 

[Owen1508]

just to clarify the draft fan adjustments.....we can only adjust the high end and the low end. The board will then figure the inbetween setting (2-8) by avg. them in equal increments

 

[chieffan]

9 is high on the draft fan. Ok to adjust the HE (high end) draft fan setting press the Draft Fan up arrow and the Aux up arrow at the same time and hold. You will see a number appear (should be 270) then release the buttons. That number is out of 500, 500 is max (100%) so 270 really is 56%. That is the speed at which the fan moves at 9. It's an 80 CFM fan so that should be about 45 CFM's. We can start by increasing that number to 320 (64%) to start. Remember that we want to creat just enough draft to exhaust the unit and give it proper combustion air. Too much and you'll lose more heat out the piping the required (lower eff.). To do this (once the 270 appears) use the Aux up/down arrows to adjust the number. Then press the ON button to save. That will adjust the HE fan speed (HR 9). We will also have to do the same for the LE (low end HR 1). It's a similar, press the draft fan down arrow and the aux down arrow together and hold. the default number that should appear is 230 (46%) let's increase that to 280 to start. Ok once you get those adjusted , try restarting the stove and running it at equal Heat range and Draft fan ( both on say 2). If the draft fan light starts blinking again slowly increase the draft fan speed to a number that will stop the blinking light. Start at two over then wait 3-5 mins and increase it to 4, etc. etc. If you get to 6 over and it still doesn't work let me know and we can jump the LE and HE fan speed again (by 50 each), and try again. The good news is that unit is so controlable/adjustable we can dial in the setting really well. If it truely is the orginial fan you may want to test it to see if it is still up to par (3000 rpm is correct). running an OAK still will help

OK, will give this a try and see what happens. going to print this off so I don't copy it down wrong and screw thigns up worse than they are. Thank you much for your help.

Were all the other parts truely "bad"? The auger on that unit does take a lot of heat, but those thermo disks tend to last. The low limit (60T12) should test open, and the high limit (60T11) will test closed until heated to 170 Degrees then open(low limit will close at 110 degrees). The board you are better with the newer 4- digit one. The "ABC" board is older technology and limited with the adjustment it can do. Either way hang on to the parts that are still good as there will come a time to need them if you plan on having the stove for a while.

The board was bad. I hooked it back up with the pressure switch by[assed and right away it started the augur motor going. The room fan switch was bad as the room fan would not come on at all. Replaced that switch and it would work with the pressure switch bypassed, so it was bad also. The other disc was included with the "kit" sp I put it on too, I kept the old disc and pressure switch as well as the board. The agitator motor was not even there. got a new motor and had to build the brackets to mount it. The other 3 motors were cleaned oild good and put back on and are working OK, except for the exhaust motor.

 

[chieffan]

just to clarify the draft fan adjustments.....we can only adjust the high end and the low end. The board will then figure the inbetween setting (2-8) by avg. them in equal increments

I figured the board would do the math so to speak for the mid range settings. Going to go and give it a try.

 

[Owen1508]

After re-reading your first post you do say it runs fine with the pressure switch bypassed, is that for extended periods? how long? The ash cleanouts (on either side of the burnpot) have you opened them and vaccumed them out? They will effect the stove in this manner if it's dirty behind there or if the screws are not tightened on them during operation. I would double check this first before adjustments. Also to check first is what port is that hose attached to on the presure switch? top or bottom? the thought is if it runs well "forever" with the switch bypassed then combustion air is not the problem, and it is very unlikly the exhaust is as well. Sorry missed that in my first read.

 

[chieffan]

After re-reading your first post you do say it runs fine with the pressure switch bypassed, is that for extended periods? how long? The ash cleanouts (on either side of the burnpot) have you opened them and vaccumed them out? They will effect the stove in this manner if it's dirty behind there or if the screws are not tightened on them during operation. I would double check this first before adjustments. Also to check first is what port is that hose attached to on the presure switch? top or bottom? the thought is if it runs well "forever" with the switch bypassed then combustion air is not the problem, and it is very unlikly the exhaust is as well.

The stove will run for at least 18 hours with the pressure switch bypassed. Both clean out have been cleaned along with the rest of the stove, including the two openings behind the "brick sheet" . There are no screws, just the iron plate. Only one port on the pressure switch, both old and new switch have only one port.

 

[chieffan]

The stove will run for at least 18 hours with the pressure switch bypassed. Both clean out have been cleaned along with the rest of the stove, including the two openings behind the "brick sheet" . There are no screws, just the iron plate. Only one port on the pressure switch, both old and new switch have only one port.

I have thought about getting the fresh air from outside but not going to pay $80 for $10 worth of material. Automotive exhaust flex pipe and straight exhaust pipe with work just as well, since they say not to use PVC ??? Why ? ? Cutsd them out of their $$$ for the kit ?

 

[Owen1508]

I have thought about getting the fresh air from outside but not going to pay $80 for $10 worth of material. Automotive exhaust flex pipe and straight exhaust pipe with work just as well, since they say not to use PVC ??? Why ? ? Cutsd them out of their $$$ for the kit ?

That's what usually is in the kits anyways. Auto flex hose and hose clamps from O'Reilly's works great

 

[heat seeker]

In case of power loss, heat could go back into the OAK, which is bad for plastic and your lungs and house.

 

[Owen1508]

The stove will run for at least 18 hours with the pressure switch bypassed. Both clean out have been cleaned along with the rest of the stove, including the two openings behind the "brick sheet" . There are no screws, just the iron plate. Only one port on the pressure switch, both old and new switch have only one port.

Might want to check the pressure switch as well it could be a bad part from the gate. We haven't sold a pressure switch that old (one port) in a while. One last thought and I shouldn't of missed this but.....on the ABC board the pressure switch plugs into the BC1 and BC2 connections on the board, BUT on the new board the switch is suppose to be plugged into the BC2 and BC3 connections on the board. Not sure if anyone walked you through the upgrade on the board, but that would cause a false draft problem.

 

[chieffan]

I have thought about getting the fresh air from outside but not going to pay $80 for $10 worth of material. Automotive exhaust flex pipe and straight exhaust pipe with work just as well, since they say not to use PVC ??? Why ? ? Cutsd them out of their $$$ for the kit ?

I got the numbers adjusted HE is set at 320 and the LE is set at 280. The stove is restarted and running now with no blinking light. Cannot adjust the Fan speed setting below 9 though, in either auto or manual mode so it is at 9 in auto mode. Got the fan speed to adjust with it in auto mode. Shut is off, started a fire, when burning good shut the door and turned the stove on. Blinking light. Waited a few min and increased the fan speed to 8. Waited a few min again and the light kept blinking. Opened both basement door, no change. Increased the HE and LE by 50. Stove is running with light blinking. Will go into shut down shortly. Run heat range up to 4 and let it go. Will check in a few min. and see what is happening.

 

[chieffan]

In case of power loss, heat could go back into the OAK, which is bad for plastic and your lungs and house.

OK. Never thought about the fire back running that way. I'll go to O'Rileys.

 

[chieffan]

OK. Never thought about the fire back running that way. I'll go to O'Rileys.

HR on 4, Draft Fan on 8, stove shut down. No fire. Error light still blinking. Jump the HE and LE up another 50 ?

 

[chieffan]

Might want to check the pressure switch as well it could be a bad part from the gate. We haven't sold a pressure switch that old (one port) in a while. One last thought and I shouldn't of missed this but.....on the ABC board the pressure switch plugs into the BC1 and BC2 connections on the board, BUT on the new board the switch is suppose to be plugged into the BC2 and BC3 connections on the board. Not sure if anyone walked you through the upgrade on the board, but that would cause a false draft problem.

It was plugged in right. Only thing I got from the company was you need this new and that new, etc. Sent the new board with an invoice. Called for support and they told me I had a drafting problem probably from a bad install. That did not sit very well to say the least.

 

[Owen1508]

The port(nipple) on the side of the firebox, the one the hose is attached to has been reamed and it is clear?

 

[chieffan]

The port(nipple) on the side of the firebox, the one the hose is attached to has been reamed and it is clear?

I didn't ream it out but with a light on the inside directed at it I could see the light good on the outside. Do you know what the size is for that on the inside? I have all kinds of drill bits. Trial and error?

 

[Owen1508]

Don't drill it through will change the flow. If the light shines it should be clear enough.

 

[Owen1508]

The pressure switch is normally closed, can you test it off the unit to see if it tests closed. If it test open the switch is bad.

 

[Owen1508]

It appears to be boiling down to one of two problem. The exhaust fan has had it (you have a new on enroute) or the pressure switch is bad.