630# stove ... one man installation in pics

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Andrei

Member
Oct 7, 2016
14
MA
Long story short, I ordered Quad Adventure III, 630# and the dealer didn't seem to be very keen on getting that installed despite my offers to help. So I ended up doing it myself. Just me and my tractor ; )

I rented a truck and dealer was kind enough to forklift it in. Here we just arrived home, it's a monster crate. Labeled 630# of dead weight.

stove_01.jpg


Here is my buddy doing all the hard work:

stove_52.jpg


This is where the stove will need to go in. We got this house earlier this spring so there has been lots of projects to get it in living condition. Those stairs are rough shape. They lead to the top floor where the hearth is.

stove_50.jpg


Since there is no way to lift that stove even with a couple of people (there is, but not very pleasant one) I made a quick roller cart. The wheels are from HF, rated at 300#

stove_02.jpg

stove_53.jpg


Instead of dragging it by the stairs, I figured to lift the whole thing to the top level, requiring temporarily taking out the railing (I put it back together after ; )

stove_51.jpg


Because top stairs aren't level with the main floor (i.e. there is one extra step into the house) I screwed together a ramp from scraps:

stove_54.jpg

stove_03.jpg


Now to the fun part, lifting the stove from the grate foundation to the dolly:

stove_04.jpg


... but first you need to unscrew the lag bolts holding it to the crate bottom:

stove_05.jpg


and the hidden ones ; )

stove_06.jpg


I got Kubota L25 to help:

stove_07.jpg

stove_08.jpg


In order to lift it to the top of the stairs, I'm lifting from under. The height is about over 6', so tractor can't lift from the top and the higher you life, the less lifting force you got. The stove is top heavy, and base is narrow, so I bound foundation of it to the forks. That was a really really good idea.


stove_09.jpg


I got the stove to the top, not as square as I wanted to. The ground is not even and there is a hill behind me, so moving around with forks swaying and top heavy, very expensive stove on top was the scariest part of the whole operation. Hence there are no photos of it hanging from the tractor.

Once the stop was on top, I screwed in some boards just in case the dolly wanted to roll off the 3' square ramp. Once this thing wants to roll, there is not a whole lot that can do.

stove_10.jpg


Well, that was easy to roll it into the house, but placing it onto the hearth wasn't picknick. First I had to remove it from the dolly.

stove_11.jpg

stove_12.jpg


Then place it onto rolling "pipes" ... one of those pipes it's not really a pipe ... guess what it is ; )

stove_13.jpg


With stove this heavy you may as well forget sliding it. Letting gravity do it's work is the only way. I tried those easy sliders, even lubed them with water. Not a whole much luck. I'm 220# and there is little I can do to rock or nudge it side to side.

stove_55.jpg


Well, the only sweat broken is during the lift of the stove and doing some prep work like building the dolly and the ramp. It took me an afternoon of work, no cussing. If you got plan together and you are willing to take time, good plan is better than several sweaty guys trying to muscle 630# in.

stove_15.jpg
 
Nice work. Given your tractor is about the same size as mine, I'm sure there was some puckering involved in that lift onto the staircase.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mitchhorne8
Nice methodical job, with pics along the way to boot. Well done.
 
Yes good thinking it through. An L2500 must've been pretty close to max I would think? Nice tractor too BTW.
 
Yes good thinking it through. An L2500 must've been pretty close to max I would think? Nice tractor too BTW.

yes, very good point, I believe the lift capacity is 1800, it got set of 3k# LandPride forks which aren't the lightest for it. I maxed out on power at that height, it literally got few inches higher than FEL could manage. If I needed a few inches more, it would be a change of plans probably involving building a ramp for the tractor.

Important point is that FELs are rated at the pin and the higher you go, the lift capacity diminishes real quick.
 
You must be thinking of the three point lift capacity. What model loader is on it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
No matter. Great ingenuity on getting your stove in.
 
4.5 cubic feet of power! Should be a fun one.
 
So why wouldn't the dealer do the install? We have several stoves that weigh in around the 600lb mark. We do it almost everyday, with the proper equipment it's a an everyday job. No sweat! Good job on tackling it yourself!
 
Long story short, I ordered Quad Adventure III, 630# and the dealer didn't seem to be very keen on getting that installed despite my offers to help. So I ended up doing it myself. Just me and my tractor ; )

I rented a truck and dealer was kind enough to forklift it in. Here we just arrived home, it's a monster crate. Labeled 630# of dead weight.

View attachment 185870


Here is my buddy doing all the hard work:

View attachment 185871


This is where the stove will need to go in. We got this house earlier this spring so there has been lots of projects to get it in living condition. Those stairs are rough shape. They lead to the top floor where the hearth is.

View attachment 185872


Since there is no way to lift that stove even with a couple of people (there is, but not very pleasant one) I made a quick roller cart. The wheels are from HF, rated at 300#

View attachment 185873

View attachment 185874


Instead of dragging it by the stairs, I figured to lift the whole thing to the top level, requiring temporarily taking out the railing (I put it back together after ; )

View attachment 185875



Because top stairs aren't level with the main floor (i.e. there is one extra step into the house) I screwed together a ramp from scraps:

View attachment 185876

View attachment 185877


Now to the fun part, lifting the stove from the grate foundation to the dolly:

View attachment 185878


... but first you need to unscrew the lag bolts holding it to the crate bottom:

View attachment 185879


and the hidden ones ; )

View attachment 185880


I got Kubota L25 to help:

View attachment 185881

View attachment 185882


In order to lift it to the top of the stairs, I'm lifting from under. The height is about over 6', so tractor can't lift from the top and the higher you life, the less lifting force you got. The stove is top heavy, and base is narrow, so I bound foundation of it to the forks. That was a really really good idea.


View attachment 185883


I got the stove to the top, not as square as I wanted to. The ground is not even and there is a hill behind me, so moving around with forks swaying and top heavy, very expensive stove on top was the scariest part of the whole operation. Hence there are no photos of it hanging from the tractor.

Once the stop was on top, I screwed in some boards just in case the dolly wanted to roll off the 3' square ramp. Once this thing wants to roll, there is not a whole lot that can do.

View attachment 185884


Well, that was easy to roll it into the house, but placing it onto the hearth wasn't picknick. First I had to remove it from the dolly.

View attachment 185885

View attachment 185886


Then place it onto rolling "pipes" ... one of those pipes it's not really a pipe ... guess what it is ; )

View attachment 185887


With stove this heavy you may as well forget sliding it. Letting gravity do it's work is the only way. I tried those easy sliders, even lubed them with water. Not a whole much luck. I'm 220# and there is little I can do to rock or nudge it side to side.

View attachment 185888


Well, the only sweat broken is during the lift of the stove and doing some prep work like building the dolly and the ramp. It took me an afternoon of work, no cussing. If you got plan together and you are willing to take time, good plan is better than several sweaty guys trying to muscle 630# in.

View attachment 185889

Nice work, I wish I had something like that Kubota. I used 6 guys and we routed 3 straps under the stove, two guys per strap, one on each side and we heaved it in place. We had to do my flag stone first. Flag stone was over 2 inches thick, 44" by 60", very heavy. We also used the three strap under meathod. Was scary but we got it down. Thank god for mountain folk neighbor community.
 
I move 600lb stoves all by myself with the proper equipment, I'm really curious why the hearth store wouldn't do it?
 
Long story short, I ordered Quad Adventure III, 630# and the dealer didn't seem to be very keen on getting that installed despite my offers to help. So I ended up doing it myself. Just me and my tractor ; )

I rented a truck and dealer was kind enough to forklift it in. Here we just arrived home, it's a monster crate. Labeled 630# of dead weight.

View attachment 185870


Here is my buddy doing all the hard work:

View attachment 185871


This is where the stove will need to go in. We got this house earlier this spring so there has been lots of projects to get it in living condition. Those stairs are rough shape. They lead to the top floor where the hearth is.

View attachment 185872


Since there is no way to lift that stove even with a couple of people (there is, but not very pleasant one) I made a quick roller cart. The wheels are from HF, rated at 300#

View attachment 185873

View attachment 185874


Instead of dragging it by the stairs, I figured to lift the whole thing to the top level, requiring temporarily taking out the railing (I put it back together after ; )

View attachment 185875


Because top stairs aren't level with the main floor (i.e. there is one extra step into the house) I screwed together a ramp from scraps:

View attachment 185876

View attachment 185877


Now to the fun part, lifting the stove from the grate foundation to the dolly:

View attachment 185878


... but first you need to unscrew the lag bolts holding it to the crate bottom:

View attachment 185879


and the hidden ones ; )

View attachment 185880


I got Kubota L25 to help:

View attachment 185881

View attachment 185882


In order to lift it to the top of the stairs, I'm lifting from under. The height is about over 6', so tractor can't lift from the top and the higher you life, the less lifting force you got. The stove is top heavy, and base is narrow, so I bound foundation of it to the forks. That was a really really good idea.


View attachment 185883


I got the stove to the top, not as square as I wanted to. The ground is not even and there is a hill behind me, so moving around with forks swaying and top heavy, very expensive stove on top was the scariest part of the whole operation. Hence there are no photos of it hanging from the tractor.

Once the stop was on top, I screwed in some boards just in case the dolly wanted to roll off the 3' square ramp. Once this thing wants to roll, there is not a whole lot that can do.

View attachment 185884


Well, that was easy to roll it into the house, but placing it onto the hearth wasn't picknick. First I had to remove it from the dolly.

View attachment 185885

View attachment 185886


Then place it onto rolling "pipes" ... one of those pipes it's not really a pipe ... guess what it is ; )

View attachment 185887


With stove this heavy you may as well forget sliding it. Letting gravity do it's work is the only way. I tried those easy sliders, even lubed them with water. Not a whole much luck. I'm 220# and there is little I can do to rock or nudge it side to side.

View attachment 185888


Well, the only sweat broken is during the lift of the stove and doing some prep work like building the dolly and the ramp. It took me an afternoon of work, no cussing. If you got plan together and you are willing to take time, good plan is better than several sweaty guys trying to muscle 630# in.

View attachment 185889
Love the monstrous dolley

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Good job! I don't know if you went to Ga. Tech, but you are a helluva engineer.
Damn that is one heavy wood stove. I thought my Jotul 500 was heavy at 430 pounds.
 
Wonder how light it is with the door off and all the firebrick out?

take some pics of the controller board and actuators when you get a chance.

The controller board is a custom PCB with their logo on it. The MCU is R5F2123 (http://www.datasheet.hk/view_download.php?id=1415000&file=0178\r5f2122ckfp_4283056.pdf , it's a $4 chip :)) The rest are diodes, a photocoupler, rectifier bridge.)

There is a USB port, so I'd imagine that you can update firmware etc.

stove_01.jpg

stove_02.jpg

There is a video on how to replace the board that has better shots:



As far as actuators go, there is one small linear actuator under the stove that controls air supply. The stove have 8 D cells as a backup and judging by leading wires to it, it's a very low amp motor. You can also pull the pins and go full manual if you wanted to.

stove_03.jpg

I got the "fan kit". Honestly, on stove this size, you really need a fan to spread the heat around and away from the stove. The kit was $300 (three hundred) It's a $5 fan + linear potentiometer. If anyone has Adventure II or III and needs the specs for the pot and and the fan, drop me a PM. I'm sure that you can manage this wizardry for under $20.

stove_04.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all your pictures - I really enjoyed your post! When will you have your first fire?

Matt

I had first fire the same eve, it's the last pic of the OP. Unfortunately temps have been fairly high, no less than 60 during the day, rising to 80 last week. Very warm for New England. The first fire was fairly small, I put in three big logs and got the room (about 1200 sq') to 80 fairly quickly. The top floor is just one giant room (which is some weird archy open concept, kitchen dining etc in one place) which is the reason why I wanted the largest stove and air flow through out is not obstructed by much.

One issue was that this stove doesn't like to work on idle, when it hit 80 it just completely cut off air supply, that created lot of smoke up the chimney and a dirty glass door. When temps drop, hopefully I'll get more experience with slower burns. It's rated for 100'000 BTU/hr, good for 1500-4000sq' spaces. My philosophy is to better burn at half capacity than 100% all the time.
 
I move 600lb stoves all by myself with the proper equipment, I'm really curious why the hearth store wouldn't do it?

I can't speak for them, but I'm close to Boston metro area and not too many people heat with wood or have the need to heat such big rooms. We have electric heaters upstairs that I'd rather not use. Most customers are getting stoves or inserts for the looks, not the function. They had Adventure II on display, that's the biggest they got. They never sold anything like Adventure III ever. The difference between two is 230#s. I believe that they deliver the same time they get stoves/inserts in, so this was a "special" kind of project that they weren't prepared for and had to look for other ways/people to do it. That's my guess.
 
It's a $5 fan + linear potentiometer. If anyone has Adventure II or III and needs the specs for the pot and and the fan, drop me a PM. I'm sure that you can manage this wizardry for under $20.
Yes the price on these custom units is high. I'm sure something could be jerry-rigged, for under $100 but the OEM is a reasonably nice fan. I'm glad to see it's ball bearing, that should give it a long life. The motor alone without fan blade mount or protective cage is $30-40 typically. All metal prop style fan blades are around $10-12, though the OEM may be quieter. Not sure where to pickup the custom fan cage, does it also act as the motor mount?
 
Yes the price on these custom units is high. I'm sure something could be jerry-rigged, for under $100 but the OEM is a reasonably nice fan. I'm glad to see it's ball bearing, that should give it a long life. The motor alone without fan blade mount or protective cage is $30-40 typically. All metal prop style fan blades are around $10-12, though the OEM may be quieter. Not sure where to pickup the custom fan cage, does it also act as the motor mount?

yep, I looked up the fan, it's about $40-$50, not cheap. The fan caging is also the fan mount, there is a square from a sheet metal that you unscrew and replace with the fan/mounting, then plug in the potentiometer for speed control. 15min job, but hard to believe it's $300, but oh well.
 
Well the only wearing part will be the motor. With sealed ball bearings that should last quite awhile.