a little confused

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stocker

Member
Oct 31, 2010
57
Northwest Indiana
Okay, first off I have a super 27 with straight pipe, double wall inside and triple out and total of over 16 ft. This is the 2nd year with this stove (first one was a little steel box with just a small steel plate under opening of flue with a damper on it) so when I was new to running stoves I had a lot of black crunchies on porch and roof (I know why then) but I just noticed for the first time with this stove I had a few also (first time). Flue was swept prior to season and only a quarter cup was there (Jan-april 11) I run my flue no less than 300 on my double wall and stove is run 500-600 not usually any more..glass stays clean, wood is seasoned so what is causing this? I also don't have and wierd sounds in pipe like rice krispies. I am gonna have it swept again here soon as snow melts off roof but I am a little concerned until then..I thought maybe since the moisture from the snow and stove going cold for two days that when it heated back up that what was on cap blew off...at least I hoping that was all...any help would be appreciated..Thanks
 
Holy crap, no less than 300 on your double wall pipe......do you have a chimney left on the inside? Did you mean 300 on your single wall?
 
I just measured my double wall temps and with my stove running 650 on the stove top, my double wall temp is 147, and my flue probe is reading around 475.
 
Um yea...It is the telescoping type, it stays at the temp through the burn cycle until coaling. Thats with the stove shut down all the way. I am getting secondaries and not alot of flame movement so I wouldn't think the draft is too strong or should I? Now you have me worried. There also isn't any metal smell so now what. I thought this was normal..guess I was wrong.
 
stocker said:
Um yea...It is the telescoping type, it stays at the temp through the burn cycle until coaling. Thats with the stove shut down all the way. I am getting secondaries and not alot of flame movement so I wouldn't think the draft is too strong or should I? Now you have me worried. There also isn't any metal smell so now what. I thought this was normal..guess I was wrong.

I don't claim to know it all but I have personally never seen double wall stove pipe at 300+ degrees on the outside. Let's see if anyone else chimes in as maybe this is the norm for some brands of double wall??? how are you measuring the outside temps of the double wall (ir gun or thermometer)? If it is a thermometer what type and have you ever verified its accuracy?

What are the burn times like with your Super 27? Are they abnormally short? What is your wood supply like, how long has it been drying, and what type of wood is it?
 
I am now at the end of burn cycle not to coaling yet just a little chunk or two left and pipe temp shows 250 and stove is 500 on top in front and 400 on top by pipe over baffle. Maybe the thermometer is too low on pipe? I have it placed 12 inches up.
 
stocker said:
I am now at the end of burn cycle not to coaling yet just a little chunk or two left and pipe temp shows 250 and stove is 500 on top in front and 400 on top by pipe over baffle. Maybe the thermometer is too low on pipe? I have it placed 12 inches up.

12 inches up from the stove is a good place for a pipe thermometer. You could have a leaky door gasket that is just my thoughts about this.
 
stocker said:
I am now at the end of burn cycle not to coaling yet just a little chunk or two left and pipe temp shows 250 and stove is 500 on top in front and 400 on top by pipe over baffle. Maybe the thermometer is too low on pipe? I have it placed 12 inches up.

Is the thermometer a probe style?
 
Burn times very on wood I am using. I also usually only put 3 splits in with a little one on top. Red oak (2 yrs css) goes for about 8 start to finish. Cherry is just over a year and about 6 hrs on that. I am also using elm, boxelder, maple and pine. Those were css just under a year, plus I use the ecos when we go to bed for the night to burn down the coals a little.
 
I my opinion you can't tell enough by using a magnetic thermometer on double wall pipe. You really need to have a flue probe so that you can read the internal flue temps. Are you getting 8+ hours burn times?
 
Its not a probe. I have 3 different therms 2 are rutlands and one is red devil. Red devil reads higher than other two. As for leaky gasket I have done the dollar bill test throughout the door and definately cannot be pulled out and wouldn't I have uncontollable fires? That I don't have...always settles down quickly when asked...thats why I am concerned on the black flakes.
 
Okay about probe style, where to get them and how to put them in and where, I need piece of mind. And if I still see that is too hot what else should I be looking into. Also for further reference what is a normal temp inside with the probe?
 
I really wish I could remember what type Begreen was recommending since he just changed his out this year so hopefully he will chime in here and let you know. Here is a link that will take you to a couple of different one that are for sale http://www.starbrickstoves.com/acatalog/Stove_Thermometer.html
Seems like a few people have the Condar 3-39 but if I remember correctly it is know for reading a little high. I honestly wonder if you are getting inaccurate readings with the magnetic on the double wall?
 
I thought that too, so I guess I have some drillin to do...So in all this conversation the black flakies are because the flue temps are too high and burning off the creasote (mini fire)?? Or could it just have been what was on cap?
 
How are you measuring those double wall temps? They sound like what I see on the surface of my single wall stove pipe.

-SF
 
I have a magnetic therm 12 inches up from stove. When I start cold it climbs to 300 in about 45 minutes, I start stove with 2 med spits on each side with a little firestarter in middle on bottom with 6 small kindling pieces criss crossed on top. Then when I see secondaries going (when baffle opens) I close down to about an eighth. Then I wait for that to coal and add my load which is about 3 med splits at a time. The flue temp doesn't go over 300 during the whole process. Gets down to 200 during final coaling (chunks). So what do ya think? I am gonna move it up to 18 inches and see what the difference is on next load.
 
I just ordered a probe thermo, should be here soon. It is not uncommon for me to get 300 - 325 surface temp with an ir meter from the stove up to 12". Then the temps along the pipe lower, and then slightly increase closer to the ceiling box.
 
Backwoods are you using telescoping doublewall also? Keep me informed on the difference with the probe when you get it.
 
corey21 said:
stocker said:
I am now at the end of burn cycle not to coaling yet just a little chunk or two left and pipe temp shows 250 and stove is 500 on top in front and 400 on top by pipe over baffle. Maybe the thermometer is too low on pipe? I have it placed 12 inches up.

12 inches up from the stove is a good place for a pipe thermometer. You could have a leaky door gasket that is just my thoughts about this.

If single-wall, I prefer the thermometer to be higher, but in this case it's irrelevant. You don't use a surface thermometer on double-wall pipe and expect anything but a somewhat relative temp. Move the thermometer up to 24" above the stove and I think you will see what I mean.
 
Begreen, do you have doublewall? If so, which probe do you recommend? Plus where to put it on pipe, and what temps are normal with it.
 
certified106 said:
I just measured my double wall temps and with my stove running 650 on the stove top, my double wall temp is 147, and my flue probe is reading around 475.

My double wall is always in the low 300 range(IR) on the outside when I start a fresh load, with my Endeavor it would touch the low 400 range.

Right now the stove is pretty much dialed in(1.75) about 18 inches up I have 180 and the stove top is 560. One day I'll get a probe but it really won't change anything, the stove will run how it runs. I've always figured double wall is probably around a 1/3 of the internal temp.
 
Rdust, so what your sayin is its okay for that temp? If so, I can get some sleep tonight...Its just funny how for the past two years its been the same readings and I haven't worried and I get to reading more and now I'm freaked. I just posted to find out about the black crunchies...lol
 
stocker said:
Rdust, so what your sayin is its okay for that temp? If so, I can get some sleep tonight...Its just funny how for the past two years its been the same readings and I haven't worried and I get to reading more and now I'm freaked. I just posted to find out about the black crunchies...lol

No way to know 100% without a probe on double wall, external temps are pretty much meaningless on a double wall pipe. For my set up I'm ok with a 300 degree external temp during start up, after I have the air closed down the temps come down.
 
stocker said:
Backwoods are you using telescoping doublewall also? Keep me informed on the difference with the probe when you get it.

Yes telescoping..... Will do.
 
Just to see what my double wall temps did I stuck a spare magnetic thermometer on my double wall 12" up from the stove top and I have yet to see it go over 150 °F . For the life of me I don't see how you have double wall temps of 300+ degrees. What brand of double wall do you have?
 
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