Adding a damper F3cb

[thetooth]

I had a new F3cb installed last year . Stove preformed very well for us lat year . We have just had a few small fires so far this year .

I have noticed though with the stove damper all the way closed , stove temp around 550f , and the secondaries going nicely . That the stove will cruise up to 650f and even 700f .

So would a inline damper help control this ?

Stove is a hearth mount . Vent out the back into a tee ( for clean out ) and 15'-0' up and out .

thanks

 

[milleo]

I say check your gaskets and if they are good then yes put in a damper, sounds like you have an awesome draft.

 

[Oldhippie]

Low cost and a tad more control. I have one in my EPA stove as I have a very strong draft and this prevents a runaway situation.

 

[bostock]

yup sounds like too much air moving through the stove - either too much inbound (gaskets less-than-perfect), or too much outbound (controlled by adding damper). My last chimney was 30' or so - there was NO WAY i could operate my F3 without a damper - air just raged through there otherwise. I also had rear vent, tee-snout. I put the damper right in the snout.

 

[begreen]

Is the start air damper closed? Also, make sure there is no debris built up behind the ashpan that pushing it forward and preventing the ashpan door from closing tightly.

 

[corey21]

A damper would help to add extra control when needed.

 

[DAKSY]

Sure sounds like an air leak somewhere. With 15' of chimney & a 90 in the system, that F3CB shouldn't
burn that hot...

 

[begreen]

Agreed Daks.. That's why I asked about the startup control and ash pan. The F3CB is an easy breather, but it should settle down in the 500-650F range with the air closed unless the wood is highly combustible like construction scraps.

 

[thetooth]

Thanks for the tips . The start up air / ashpan door are both closed and the air control is completely shut . The stove burned like this last year to on a few occasions .
Normally the stove will hang tight around 550 - 600 range , but there have been time when it has cruised up to 700 .

Both doors close with a good positive feel and the gaskets look in like new condition ( stove was new in Oct. 2011 ) . My plan is to install the damper in the horizontal run of the tee .

Also I am burning white oak 15% moisture reading .

thanks

 

[begreen]

Let the fire burn down a bit more before reloading. And try to pack the stove tightly on the reload. Fit smaller splits into the gaps between the larger splits.

If you to add a damper, add it to the vertical section. You want that horiz. section to be as unrestricted as possible.

 

[CT-Mike]

I agree with begreen, seems to me that a horizontal damper will be a creosote trap.

 

[thetooth]

Let the fire burn down a bit more before reloading. And try to pack the stove tightly on the reload. Fit smaller splits into the gaps between the larger splits.

If you to add a damper, add it to the vertical section. You want that horiz. section to be as unrestricted as possible.

I don't think I can add it to the vertical section , There is not enough room before it goes to flex liner . The horizontal run is only a 1'-0" long end to center of the tee so it does not have to far to go before it goes vertical .

I usually reload when the stove temperature has dropped below 400 , but i will try reloading when the stove is a little cooler .

 

[glennm]

Did you check the accuracy of the thermometer? Mine reads way high over 400 degrees! I have checked it with a laser thermometer and it reads 700 when the laser reads 450

 

[DAKSY]

I don't think I can add it to the vertical section , There is not enough room before it goes to flex liner . The horizontal run is only a 1'-0" long end to center of the tee so it does not have to far to go before it goes vertical .

I usually reload when the stove temperature has dropped below 400 , but i will try reloading when the stove is a little cooler .

Do you have room to add a short section of connector pipe between the top of the tee & the liner? If so, mount the damper there. That's how I'd address the issue...

 

[bostock]

FWIW my damper is on the horizontal and i have had no problems with it collecting excess creosote - BUT i also must agree with the others; science does suggest the vertical section is the better choice. DAKSY has a good idea, above.
It may also be worth noting - my 30' chimney has a hell of a draw, no air (or anything) sat too long in the short horizontal section of my tee-snout

 

[begreen]

I usually reload when the stove temperature has dropped below 400 , but i will try reloading when the stove is a little cooler .

I think that's the source of the high temps. The wood is outgassing too rapidly on the hot coal bed. Try reloading it at 300F and see it that makes it more predictable.

 

[thetooth]

I think that's the source of the high temps. The wood is outgassing too rapidly on the hot coal bed. Try reloading it at 300F and see it that makes it more predictable.

Yes I will try that .

Do you have room to add a short section of connector pipe between the top of the tee & the liner? If so, mount the damper there. That's how I'd address the issue...

No there is not enough room . The top of the tee ( after the tee it goes to the flex piping ) is just below the old fireplace damper opening ( hearth mount stove) so the only spot to fit a damper would be the horizontal run .

I am going to try and load the stove at cooler temps . Thanks for every ones help and tips

 

[EJL923]

If you don't have enough room, try the damper i am ordering below. I plan on putting it as the first piece on the outlet of my insert. It will be vertical. After three seasons, its time i take control of my beastly draft.

http://www.northlineexpress.com/chi...ipe/6-durablack-damper-section-1605-1605.html