additional tonage on log splitters (?)

[Jags]

Usual pumps are 9,11, or 16gpm. Just buy a new splitter, upgrade the speed and power by getting next larger pump for $150,, sell the new smaller pump you just took off for $75, and be upgraded for $75

This only holds true if the engine is large enough to pull the extra pump size. Rule of thumb is (for gas engine) .5 hp for every GPM of pump (i.e. 16 GPM pump requires 8 HP). A smaller engine will still turn it, but will not be able to run it up to advertised pressure.

 

[razerface]

I push a 16 with a HF 6.5 side shaft. It is freaking fast and unstoppable. I split all the way down the tree,,,I cut the stumps level with the ground. All that nasty curly twisted wood.

 

[Jags]

I push a 16 with a HF 6.5 side shaft. It is freaking fast and unstoppable. I split all the way down the tree,,,I cut the stumps level with the ground. All that nasty curly twisted wood.

I guarantee that your relief is set lower than the pump is capable of creating, or simply that your wood is splitting before that high pressure is needed. I don't make the rules of fluid dynamics, I just understand them and follow them.

 

[razerface]

I built this splitter from the ground up. Don't know how you can be sure of any thing about it unless you've been sneaking over and splitting wood at my house! I wish you would,, I need the help!

I don't know if I am maxing the pump perfectly, but I CAN guarantee it is faster and more powerful then the 11 I replaced, cause I have spent many, many hours running it. I have an auto return, so speed is important too. When I tell it to return, then let go of it too pick up my next piece, it retracts fully. The first stage of the 16 does not require big hp to run it, so it shoves more to the the cyl then the 11 did,,,,,running it faster to the wood.

Then, even if the motor is under powered to run the second stage fully,, it will run it up to the hp avail before bogging the engine, so on your theory, I would still get the power my engine could put to the pump,,,,,but i have never heard that engine slow down or bog down,,,,so it is handling the 16 gpm pump just fine.

I don't look at my pressure gauges much, but will pay attn to them next time I split,


But too the OP,,,got off track,,,,I think 22 ton it a good size. I have a 27 ton also because my main splitt r does not swivel,,and since I am getting older,,,I don't want to pick up some rounds,, but I dont like using it because it is slow. I have never reached for it because I needed more power.

 

[Jags]

You are part correct and part incorrect. Yes, as stated above, the engine will still pull the pump in the high volume stage. That equates to faster movement. But when it hits the second stage (low volume, high pressure) is where HP is important. Depending on the pump design the second stage of a 16 GPM pump is larger than the second stage of an 11 gpm (again, this can change from MFG to MFG).

Typical pumps of the 11 GPM variety will have a high pressure side of 2.8 GPM while a 16GPM pump will push 3.8 GPM requiring roughly 30% more HP to pull to rated pressure.
(specs taken from here: http://www.grainger.com/category/hydraulic-two-stage-gear-pumps/pumps/hydraulics/ecatalog/N-9dd).

All that said doesn't mean that your setup doesn't work. Relief pressure set below pump max is one way to make it work. It takes a lot less power to run at 2500 psi than it does to run it up to 3000 psi which can account for why your 6.5 hp is working just fine.

 

[perchin]

I've had a home built for a number of years now, and just got the Countyline (huskee) 22 ton splitter. I am perfectly happy with it after 11 cord so far. Has not been stopped yet throwing mostly Ash, Elm, and Oak at it.

 

[williaty]

We're looking at getting our first splitter. Available locally, the 22 ton and 28 ton Dirty Hand Tools splitters are the best value (by the specs). I'm not intended to go full production with this. We have a little over 1 acre of woods that is in horrible shape and we're slowly reclaiming. I basically want to be able to split the trees that come out of that in order to get rid of them and have at least some of our yearly wood for free. We have a TON of ash to come down (emerald ash borer just came through). Probably 5+ cords of deadfall and standing dead of that to process. Some cherry, oak, maple to make up the rest of it. There's also a couple of black locusts and osage oranges, but I don't know that we'll split those just due to how hard they'd be on the chainsaw to get them sectioned up.

Can I do most of that with the 22-ton? Sure would be nice to save the $600 compared to the 28-ton.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Sure, the huskee 22 would definitely take care of that.....

 

[claydogg84]

I enjoyed the 22 ton Huskee more than my 27 ton Troy-Bilt. It split everything I threw at it without a problem.

 

[whatsgnu]

22 ton will be more than enough. You may even want to just get a splitting axe or maul if you're mainly doing ash and give it a try first. Ash usually splits pretty easy.

 

[Ski-Patroller]

Would you want more tonnage with a 4 way head? Is a 4 way head worth anything?

I mentioned before that my 5 ton HF electric has split almost everything we put in it. I'm kind of amazed by it. I think it's partly the sharper, skinnier wedge, but it works fine.

 

[claydogg84]

Would you want more tonnage with a 4 way head? Is a 4 way head worth anything?

I mentioned before that my 5 ton HF electric has split almost everything we put in it. I'm kind of amazed by it. I think it's partly the sharper, skinnier wedge, but it works fine.

Yes - A 4-Way will require more tonnage. Honestly, I'm splitting 5-10 cords a season and have no real need for a 4 way.