Advise on Buying older Buck stove or Drolet or Napoleon insert

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Army

New Member
Jan 5, 2008
4
Ohio
I have a 2200SQFT BiLevel with an outside chimmey and a fireplace 41W26H26D with 6"x26" draft at the top of it and the Fireplace is in the lower level. I have 27"X27" family room down stairs in front of the fireplace with the stairs leading up to the living room and kitchen that is above the familyroom. I just want to help heat the family room and area above it to help offset our electric bill without spending alot of money on a new one.
I found a 35x16Dx25H Buck stove forsale $400 but I can not find anything that gives the dimensions of the older stoves to tell which model it is does anybody know?
Or should I buy a new Napoleon 1401 insert or a new Drolet MDL DB03120
Thanks
 
Unless you have the Buck model number, it could be one of many......and if it is not newer (labeled and EPA approved), I would pass it up. If it is a modern model (last 12 years or so), then it might be ok, but you have to know.

As far as which other stove to buy, any newer EPA tested stove will have a lot of advantages. I don't think there are big differences between the brands you mentioned, but you have to check the specs on the particular models and weigh them against exactly what you want the stove to do.

Read:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/choosing_a_wood_stove
 
Army said:
I have a 2200SQFT BiLevel with an outside chimmey and a fireplace 41W26H26D with 6"x26" draft at the top of it and the Fireplace is in the lower level. I have 27"X27" family room down stairs in front of the fireplace with the stairs leading up to the living room and kitchen that is above the familyroom. I just want to help heat the family room and area above it to help offset our electric bill without spending alot of money on a new one.
I found a 35x16Dx25H Buck stove forsale $400 but I can not find anything that gives the dimensions of the older stoves to tell which model it is does anybody know?
Or should I buy a new Napoleon 1401 insert or a new Drolet MDL DB03120
Thanks
I just installed a Buckstove model 28000 in my fireplace, from 1987. My situation is identical to yours, including house layout. I paid $500 for my stove. In fact, the damper in my fireplace is exactly the same size as yours. I could help guide you through the installation, though I'm not an experienced installer, I just happen to be in the exact same situation as you. Describe the stove, and we'll go from there.
 
By the way, the stove I have (Regular Buck) has no problem throwing out more than enough heat. It is not, however, as efficient as the newer stoves. If you were to go to wood as your only or primary heat source using a stove, then a newer stove, as Craig explains, is the way to go. I couldn't afford more than $500-$600, so that's what I got. I have oil forced hot air, and use the Buckstove primarily on the weekends. The furnace never kicks on when the stove is lit. This site is a wealth of information- I have learned so much in the less than two weeks since I have joined.
 
Brooktrout where did you get your liner for your chimney? Did you put any instulation between your draft and stove? Yes this site has alot of information.
Thanks again
Jim
 
My stove measures 37" wide, 25" tall, and 24" deep, NOT including handles and hearth plate. I did stuff insulation around the flue as it passes through the fireplace damper. (be sure to remove any paper backing first! :) I fabricated a stack out of 20 ga sheet metal, with all seams welded, to go from the rectangular opening on the top of the stove through the fireplace damper (too cheap to spend the $150 on the one the sell at Buckstove.com!). From there it transitions to 8" round single wall stove pipe up the existing masonry chimney to the top, where I stuffed insulation around the top as well. Then I fabricated a cap out of copper that covers the gap between the flue and the existing chimney. The stove does heat the upstairs as well, if the living/family room is 75, the upstairs is usually 68 or so. I plan on adding a vent in the ceiling near the fireplace that would go via short length (two foot) of flex-insulated duct to my daughter's bedroom, typically the coldest in the house. I can send you a pic of the stove if you'd like, to see if it's similar to the one you are considering.
 
Army said:
Or should I buy a new Napoleon 1401 insert or a new Drolet MDL DB03120
Thanks

I have been burning wood in my 1401 for 4 days now (new to wood stoves), and it has been excellent. No smoke at all in the house whatsoever, not even when opening the door to reload. It has met all my expectations. :)

It was on sale for $532, now $996, but still a good deal considering the local dealer wants $2,500 for the 1402 (only cosmetic differences). The door is $181 for black or $304 for gold or brushed nickel. Free Shipping.
http://www.homeclick.com/web/catalo...dOvimY5yb54dJgdRWRz0ZzjlwEh1YA;&x3d;&x3d;Here is my thread deciding between inserts.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/13275/P0/
 
I have the 1402 (it was $1600 from the dealer I went to) and so far I'm impressed. I have a drafty house, vaulted ceilings and an open floor plan. Itstays very comfortable in the whole house, and my furnace only comes on on very cold days, and only to heat the bedrooms, which are on the other end of the house. Being able to back the air down, and burn all the smoke is not only mesmerizing to watch, it gets the most out of your firewood.
 
Brooktrout: Don`t know about the Drolet inserts, but back in the early 80`s we had 2 Drolet stoves, In my humble opinion they are built just as "tank-like" as the mighty PE`s.. No doubt you have seen all the bragging about the PE Summits on this forum.They call them the mighty (steel beasts).. I think that if you want quality, the drolet will satisfy you. :coolsmirk: They are still built with that (metal beast like quality).
 
I have heated with a Napoleon 1401 for over 10 years. I love it. It burns clean and I can get 9 hours between loads without having to use kindling.

Dan
 
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