Air Elimintation

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timberbuilt

Member
Oct 10, 2009
42
Montana
Looking for advice on air elimination?

I currently have a spirovent jr. attached to my pressure tank on the boiler side of my operation (out-building). As I understand it, the sprirovent is a scoop type air eliminator. It seems like I have a lot of air in the house side of my system and I am looking to add air elimination to this side. I was looking at the in-line type of air elimination and it looked like the way to go. Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about the subject they can share with me? the in-line air elimination looks like you just need to plumb it straight into the line and then put a vent on the top of it. Is it really that simple or is there more I should know about?
 
It's my well water mixed with glycol. It seems like I deal with a lot of problems of air locking up pumps and such. Sometimes I can hear it, other times I have problems getting a zone to circulate. The main circulator doesn't have seem to have a problem, just the zone circulators.
 
You got any leaks?

For a while my valve out in the boiler room had a leak, by the time I got around to fixing it, it was dripping about 1/2 gal a day. My boiler only runs for 4 or 5 hours a day and shuts down. So when i would fire it up, the circulator would start and push the air into the house zones(before the air vent would take care of it), and I would have the same problem you're having. my zones had all the air, had to bleed off the air after I started it up.
 
I noticed you have another post on adding glycol. I would suggest if time allows for you to figure out the air problem first and then add your glycol. Save time and money. You do loose some heat transfer when using glycol, but if there is no other way for boiler protection it would be a must. I know some will leave a light bulb on inside fire box to keep stove warm if in an out building. Even if the power goes out for a day or so your still OK.
Air in the lines. Can you turn your circulators on (high) and open zones 1 by 1 and allow each to run for some time to really work all the air out of system? If system is just filled it may take a while for all the air to settle out of zones and loops. If it's a pressurized system you should not get air back in just water leaking out.
If you have some high pipes that air is continuously trapped in or you need a way to purge those lines you can solder in a fitting with a 1/8" fnpt thread and add a Hy-Vent that will help remove large bubbles.
Can you draw and post a diagram of your system ? There are many people who would make suggestions but an accurate drawing would help.
Rob
 
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