Air escaping where Oslo Flue meets stove pipe

[ontherise]

Hello -

Another question from the noob with the wood stove, sorry...

Doing another test run through tonight just getting the hang of it. Have the 2+ year seasoned and dry cord of wood coming later this week but still testing with the dryest of the stuff cut this past spring. Still having some minor fights getting the secondary to go (not a very cold night but the coldest in the next couple weeks up here, plus kind of raw with the rain so a good night to do another "practice run"). I still noticed that air rushing sound. I had previously chalked it up to the intake underneath the Oslo but I experimented and grabbed a dollar bill and did what I imagine the dollar bill test to be...

I just held the bill around where it sounded like the noise was coming from - where the Double Walled pipe (Selkirk Metal Bestos.. It is the inside piece that extends.. black smoke pipe down in the room of the stove) connects to the adapter we bought from the stove shoppe (they don't sell Metalbestos there and suggested we use the ICC connector/adapter.. Just a simple piece of metal that fits inside the flue of the stove and inside the 6" double walled piece (because of the way it is built and the way the Oslo's flue flares out, it doesn't fit over without this).

Sure enough, at the sides and back of this connection point, the dollar bill grabbed right hold of the crack.

That leads to two questions:

1.) Is this an issue? The draft is great here (more on that on Question 2) so smoke/CO/heat/etc are going up but does this mess with the efficiency, create any condition to be concerned about?

2.) I know these newer Non-Cat EPA stoves don't need dampers but can you have too much draft? I forget what we had installed for pipe throughout the house but I am sure the chimney is at least 24'-26' high, probably closer to 27-30 and it is a straight shot. We live on top of a hill (about 50' shy of the highest point in time just up the road), the roof line is taller than any nearby trees and we are a very windy location - windy enough to always have a clear driveway with powdery snow and big drifts around..

 

[DAKSY]

Grab some fiberglass gasket & see if you can cram enough of it into the gap to plug the leak.
You're probably gonna need an in-line damper with that much chimney.
It'll over draft & you'll lose heat if you don't...

 

[ontherise]

Grab some fiberglass gasket & see if you can cram enough of it into the gap to plug the leak.
You're probably gonna need an in-line damper with that much chimney.
It'll over draft & you'll lose heat if you don't...

Thanks - I'll try the fiberglass route. Is installing an in-line damper an overly difficult task? I am also thinking that if it requires me to disassemble the black pipe anyway, I may try and unscrew the black pipe at the telescope and force it to a tighter seal also.

Losing heat through the draft probably explains some of the behavior I was seeing with what I thought was seasoned enough wood - instead of much secondary action, I was seeing more flames heading up the top front where the venting is.

 

[cptoneleg]

Wow sounds like too much draft , but I am no expert by no means but your manuel suggest that when that happens you may need to put an in line damper like Daksy suggests. But pictures always help on this site. Mine is just plain single wall stove pipe. And I think the dollar bill thing is to test your door seal.

Yes too much draft is possible especially if it makes adollar bill gab your pipe this puts a whole new meaning to the dollar bill test.

We Just trying to stay warm:

Cpt

 

[ontherise]

Kind of ironic that the dollar bill is grabbing the pipe. Should use a $20 if it is robbing heat from me ;-)

I looked in the manual but must have missed the part about the damper. Well I should say the manualS... I'll have a look through again and am going to look at doing it. I think with the wind up here and the straight shot through the colonial and then having 5' or so above the roof it only makes sense. (well it only makes sense based off of what this noob has been reading on my new favorite forum anyway)

 

[cptoneleg]

Post a picture if I were home I would take pictures of how I just hooked mine up . Will send one anyway but probably cai't tell much

 

[cptoneleg]

Yes as I stated I am no expert but someone or several somewones helped me hook up this stovve pipe and it works great good luck.

 

[ontherise]

Some Pictures...

I am thinking that I should actually consider a couple things in changing the design here -

1.) Instead of the ICC connector, actually buy the Selkirk Metalbestos DSPSA (The Stove Adapter that will go between the stove and the double walled smoke pipe)

2.) remove that small extension you see at the bottom that goes to the Flue (via the ICC adapter) and replace it with the DSP Damper Kit piece (or insert that between this extension and the telescoping Double wall pipe)

 

[ontherise]

That first closeup picture on the left shows the general idea of where the sound is coming from.. That picture on the right shows the remnants of tonight's pathetic attempt

 

[cptoneleg]

Not to change the subject but is that the rear heatshield? And sorry I don't know what a ICC connector or DSPSA is or any of that. Mine is single wall slides way down inside and I caulked it with stove calk. and that is apretty stove is that the blue black?

I am not qualified to give advice but it looks like you have heatshield and double wall stovepipe because of rear wall clearence. You must have wrong connector to stove should not suck a bill like you decribe.

Someone will come along that can help.

 

[ontherise]

That is the rear heatshield from Jotul, yeah.

The ICC is just a brand/type of Stove Pipe. DSP-SA is a part from Metelbestos - it's a Doublewalled Smoke Pipe - Stove Adapter. It's their part number.. DSP-SA6 or something like that (for the 6"). The stove is the black enamel. We were going to buy the blue one or blue/black but this was a floor model for a much better price, never fired, still under warranty, etc.

Yeah the connector is either wrong or just not tight enough. I am also thinking I will look at the metal bestos damper piece when I look to tighten the connection (either caulk/fiberglass or try the Metalbestos adapter, which should fight the black pipe better).

 

[cptoneleg]

That is the rear heatshield from Jotul, yeah.

The ICC is just a brand/type of Stove Pipe. DSP-SA is a part from Metelbestos - it's a Doublewalled Smoke Pipe - Stove Adapter. It's their part number.. DSP-SA6 or something like that (for the 6"). The stove is the black enamel. We were going to buy the blue one or blue/black but this was a floor model for a much better price, never fired, still under warranty, etc.

Yeah the connector is either wrong or just not tight enough. I am also thinking I will look at the metal bestos damper piece when I look to tighten the connection (either caulk/fiberglass or try the Metalbestos adapter, which should fight the black pipe better).

Mine is floor model also had choice brown of green, I love it, something like 300 more $ for one not in stock.

 

[Skier76]

I've got a Castine...similar stove, just a bit smaller.

So it's making that noise where the pipe joins the stove? Are those bolts (silver hex heads) turned in all the way? Mine are just hand tightned, if they're turned in all the way without drilling a hole in the pipe, that'll cause a big air leak.

I didn't have any noise issues or leaking. However, I filled that joint with some Rutland cement (from a tube) a few weeks back...just to be safe.

Congrats on the new Jotul! Once you get it dialed in, you're going to love it.

 

[ontherise]

yeah that is where the draft noise is coming from and can definitely see the dollar bill sucking right up to there. They are hand tight but the adapter we got really isn't doing the trick like they thought it would. Have the one that matches the double walled pipe better on order (DSP 6SA-1 from Metal Bestos) and will change out then. I'd rather keep it safe than sorry. Don't know/believe there is an fire hazard because of how the draft works and the angle of it all, but it is just enough of a gap that I wonder if it makes the draft inside the stove less effective (less efficient burn) or takes some of the heat from the back of the stove up to the chimney (making stove less efficient or possibly heating chimney more than I'd like).