Air Vent versus Air Seperator

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

MrEd

Feeling the Heat
May 9, 2008
426
Rural New England
Do both of these things do the same thing? Air vents at pexsupply cost less than $10, air separators such as the SpiroVent run closer to $150 for a threaded 1.25.

Would you ever need both? The Tarm setup manual calls for a "coin air vent" to be installed on the top of the boiler tappings...but elsewhere shows a central air separator plumbed into the hot supply line.

Don't mind spending the money if I need to, but don't want to waste money on redundant parts.

Thanks.
 
I'm sure that others will chime in. My experience is that air vents are good at getting most of the air out. However, they never seem to get all of it. The Spirovent is designed to get ALL of the air, especially small bubbles that the air vents don't get rid of.

Despite being a pathological cheapskate, I'm contemplating a Spirovent myself.

The advantage of contemplating is that it sounds important and it's far less expensive than actually doing anything. I think I'll contemplate a bit more.
 
So a Spirovent would be used instead of a coin air vent, not in addition to, correct?
 
I have the Spiro on the boiler side of the hx, and a less expensive separator on the output side. I also have automatic air vents at all high points in my system (the Honeywell ones are about $7 at Menards). Probably overkill, but on system setup, or when I want to tinker with my system (relieve pressure first), they greatly ease getting rid of airlocks.

As to the coin vent on top of the Tarm, I installed one of those small, chrome, bathroom faucet valves which I had (better than buying yet another part) to the fitting on top of the Tarm, and then used a small piece of plastic tubing from the valve and through the vent slot on the side of the Tarm. Occasionally I will open the valve just a bit and air, if any, quickly exists with a few drops of water spilling out of the tubing, which I catch with a small container.
 
So a Spirovent would be used instead of a coin air vent, not in addition to, correct?

It is used in addition. The Spiro grabs any air moving through the plumbing. The coin vent (my faucet valve) eliminates any air that may be trapped in the top of the boiler water tank.
 
I have both on my Tarm.The coin vent is cheap money and it gets the bulk of the air out of the boiler.I also installed a spirovent in my 1 1/4 pipe supply as tarm calls for on their drawings.It wasn't cheap but I want to eliminate as many problems as I can
 
Has anybody else used the Taco air scoop? I have one on my primary loop pipe with a coin vent on top of it. Total cost of like $40... I don't know if it's getting the microscopic bubbles out like Spirovent claims, but I do know one thing, after a few days of running, with a few heat cycles, I couldn't tell when my pumps were on or off other than the 0010 for the boiler causes a humming vibration in the steel pipe that can be easily heard when your out in the boiler shed. All the others, stone silent......
 
OK, both it is. coin air on top, and the $160 Spirovent on the supply - thanks all.
 
Like I mentioned, I'd look at an air scoop. Mine's worked out pretty good and it was only like $30 for a 2" version.....
 
I believe I have a Taco air scoop w/ a Taco air vent on top right off my wood boiler. It seems to capture a lot of the air coming out of the unit. I can't say that it gets it all, but like you said, after a couple cycles, the 3 Taco 007's I have got a lot quieter.
 
Yah, i'm real impressed with mine.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.