Another Block off Plate install (with pics!)

Hi all,

I wanted to show off my progress on my install – obviously I am not a pro but everything I did was learned from this site (so thanks!) - I hope to get the Fireview in place this week.

I had some 22 gauge metal left over from my heart install so I used that to make the block off plate.

I template the damper area with cardboard first – decided it was easier for me to used two pieces instead of one – cut the metal and since I didn’t have a break formed the side edges using a vise and 2x4.

I was going to buy the Rock wool at Lowes but they only had it in huge rolls that I decided to use what insulation I had left from my liner install.

Drilled into the steel lentil in the front part of the damper area and used tapcons for the brick.

One area I was not overly happy with is I used silicone along the edges of the plate to help adhere to the masonry as well and stop any additional drafting. For the most part the plate was very tight all by itself against the brick however the back of the plate was not (maybe as much as 3/8 inch gap in some areas) and as it was curing I noticed that the silicone was only rated for 350 F continuous. Although I think this was fine to use along the outer edges (sides and front) I wasn’t happy about the back since the liner rests up against the back of the plate – so I decided to pick out the silicone and will replace with some type of cement.

Question – does the block off plate get really hot or could I have used silicone around the entire area?

Question – (this maybe rudimentary but hey I am new!) I place my hand at the liner opening and I feel a down draft. Now I know heat rises and cold air drops so I assume when I light a fire this will reverse itself...yes?...if this is the case what happens when during the winter in which I am not lighting a fire?...wouldn’t this allow for the very cold air from the outside into the room?...

~jim

Nice job! A+

Do feel free to use silicone around the block off plate. I don't think it will ever get hot enough to hurt anything. Worst case is the silicone degrades/evaporates a bit where it gets too hot, which isn't the end of the world.

Your chimney is downdrafting now because the pressure at the top of the chimney is greater than the pressure at the bottom of the liner. This will change as colder weather sets in and you have greater draft potential build. You may have to be a bit careful building a fire from a cold start, but once things are rolling along you will probably be OK. Look into a top down fire, as this will help start the draft.

Silicone around the block off plate to fireplace connection is fine. However, you have a gap between the liner and the block off plate. I would seal this with stove cement. Other than that, you did a great job

Great job and as the others have said. These photos should be used as a sticky so people know what and how a block off plate is done.
Good on ya man for the effort.
Cheers

Do you have any pictures of the damper before you started and did you remove the whole thing or was the opening big enough?

Thank you for all the kind responces. I could not have done this w/o scouring this site so I thought my experiance may help others in the future.


With regard to before and after at the damper area - I can’t seem to locate the damper plate installed but I did have a picture of the area with the liner and one half of the block off plate to show where the damper was located – I also have a picture of the damper plate after I lifted it right off the frame of the damper.

One part of my install that was a blessing was the opening of the damper was (what I am now learning) a huge 7 inches across (flue tiles are 13x13). So when the liner went it there was not fighting or ovalizing – she just came right on through.


Two other questions if I may;


I went to look for cement for sealing around the liner all I could find at my favorite store (Lowes) was high temp furnace cement - is that ok to use? Although it said high temp and stated it was for furnace re-linings etc it didnt have any temp ratings on the can.


Also, when I connected the tee snout I noticed the fit was not totally tight with a air gap right at the hose clamp area. Should this be tighter? is this another area that is usually cemented?


Thanks,


~jim

Thanks for the added pics!

Since the damper was 7" across you got lucky and was able to put the pipe straight through huh.

Was it easy getting the damper out? I have looked at mine but I don't think its as wide as yours so I think I would have to ovalize it unless I removed the whole assembly?