Another "Chain" Question

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bogydave

Minister of Fire
Dec 4, 2009
8,426
So Cent ALASKA
Getting ready to order/buy a couple chains.
Oregon:
72LGX072G
72LPX072 both $20.00 ea + about $3 shipping
LGX & LPX
What's the difference?
(Can get LPX locally & save shipping, is the LGX = or better ?)

OR
Sthil 3623 RSC for $27 ea + $3 shipping

Can get Stihl local but not research price yet.

Is a Stihl chain worth $7 more ?
If yes; Why?

Yea, I know "over research" stuff. But usually it works out. :)

Husq; 359 epa , 20"
 
Went to the Stihl dealer. 20" , 72 DL, RSC $23.50, as cheap as if I ordered the LGX (with shipping).
So I bought 2,
3 new files, 13/64 ($3.50)
Dealer says the 7/32 just a hair big to fit . (hair must be blond) :-S
Needed new files anyway.


I didn't find much difference when researching OR. LPX vs LGX.
Did learn the steel teeth on the Stihl is harder & harder to file & the Oregon steel is softer easier to file.

LEE ;
Still plan to keep the "TIP" out of the dirt :)
Standing trees, glacier silt/dust in the bark so not always clean wood.
 
Adabiviak said:
^ Neat - never heard of 'full house' chain before... seems a tad aggressive? What sort of thing is that used for?
Probably another term for full comp. Just means its got all its teeth hehehe.
 
I took another approach to chains a few yrs back. First off nearly all my saws except one can pull full comp chisel chain. I have most bars in .050. next I bought from Baileys their chains tools and a box of chian on sale. Now I'm good for life. Total cost was 280.00 and I'll never have to buy a chain again. I have picked up other chain when I see it cheap and I got a roll of .058 for the really long bars in round ground.
 
I use Shitl 33RS chain on my MS290. Have no idea what it is, but know it works fine. Runs around $25 a chain I think.
 
After you get a chance to use the new RSC chain, let us know how it compares to what you had. I have been running the Oregon full chisel and they seem to dull quite fast. I skid with a winch, so my logs are a bit dirty. I want to say I previously ran semi-chisel before this last batch from baileys, and used to file with every fill up. Now it seems I can't get through a complete tank. The winch is new....so I suspect they are related.

I think the next round will be back to semi chisel....I'd like to do some direct comparison.

Lee, you speak as if there is a very obvious difference in your experience about the Stihl staying sharp longer with dirty wood? Do you still recommend the RSC vs. the RMC is it, full chisel with semi-chisel?
 
Lee, you speak as if there is a very obvious difference in your experience about the Stihl staying sharp longer with dirty wood? Do you still recommend the RSC vs. the RMC is it, full chisel with semi-chisel?




http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/176830.htm
 
Semi-Chisel will win the race "in the pits" every time with less than clean wood. I like it better than full chisel for bucking wood that I did not fall myself or I had to drag out of it's current location.

Stihl's chains do tend to stay sharper longer IMO. It has a lot to do with the quality of the chrome coating on each cutter and the hardness of the steel used in the cutter itself. I think the oil channels in Sthil's drive links help keep the chain cool while it's running and that would make a big difference in longevity as well. Notice that filing into the tooth will ruin a good file instantly with Stihl's chains too. Says quite a bit about how hard that plating is.

RS based chains for speed in clean wood.
RM based chains for the dirty work

I've cut with Carbide chains and like 'em. I've yet to pony up and buy a loop but if I were doing a lot more cutting I'd be tempted. Don't like the mega $$ equipment and wheels to sharpen them tho.
 
bpirger said:
After you get a chance to use the new RSC chain, let us know how it compares to what you had. I have been running the Oregon full chisel and they seem to dull quite fast. I skid with a winch, so my logs are a bit dirty. I want to say I previously ran semi-chisel before this last batch from baileys, and used to file with every fill up. Now it seems I can't get through a complete tank. The winch is new....so I suspect they are related.

I think the next round will be back to semi chisel....I'd like to do some direct comparison.

Lee, you speak as if there is a very obvious difference in your experience about the Stihl staying sharp longer with dirty wood? Do you still recommend the RSC vs. the RMC is it, full chisel with semi-chisel?

Yea, I'm pretty sure it will out cut the chain I had on the saw.

I had a Husqvarna chisel skip chain. Now I have a Stihl RSC & the dealer said anything over 58cc should use a regular comp with a 20" bar.
My old 61; I had an Oregon 72LGX (chisel) & it was a great improvement from the chain you can buy at the box stores. They rarely sell anything but "low kickback" ones.
Even the Oregon web site now only shows the "Low kickback" ones for home owner use. (I went to the Canada site & they show all their chains)
I liked the LGX & after some reading the LPX is almost the same. Good chisel chains just softer steel than the Stihl but easier to sharpen.
Dealer here Oregon 72LGX072 $19.50; Stihl dealer RSC $23.50. (20", 72 Drive link) (Cheaper than Bailey's, with no shipping costs added in)
I know it's an improvement from the Husq Skip chisel, my SIL out cut me when he was using the old 61 with the LGX.
Sharpening Stihl chain may be more difficult, trade offs I guess.

Stihl chain: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#PMC

Oregon: http://www.oregonchain.ca/products/sawchain/38.shtm#72V

Husqvarna : http://www.husqvarna.com/us/forest/accessories/product-accessories/chains/
 
Thanks for the link Bubba. Sounds like the advice is using the semi-chisel RMC over the full-chisel RSC for guys like me. I should try a few of the Stihl loops and see how they compare...It's been a bit of a drag having to keep sharpening my chains. There really is quite a difference in time spent bucking up a cord of logs.
 
If you have a grinder its hard to beat woodland pro.
 
bubba3228 said:
Lee, you speak as if there is a very obvious difference in your experience about the Stihl staying sharp longer with dirty wood? Do you still recommend the RSC vs. the RMC is it, full chisel with semi-chisel?




http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/176830.htm

I haven't bought a loop of Stihl chain in prolly 20 years. But even back then there was a slight difference. It's not enough to justify the price though for me. If you're in the dirt you're in the dirt and Oregon chain is alot easier to profile than Stihl and your files last longer. There are cutting techniques to cut dirty wood . I'll keep buying chain at 60% less cost than the Stihl.
 
uncontrolabLEE said:
I haven't bought a loop of Stihl chain in prolly 20 years...
Maybe they improved in 20 years? Dunno. I was perfectly happy using Oregon chain for decades before I moved away from Oregon country. When I went in to the saw shop here, I plopped down my old Oregon bar and chain asking for Oregon but the didn't sell Oregon.
 
LLigetfa said:
uncontrolabLEE said:
I haven't bought a loop of Stihl chain in prolly 20 years...
Maybe they improved in 20 years? Dunno. I was perfectly happy using Oregon chain for decades before I moved away from Oregon country. When I went in to the saw shop here, I plopped down my old Oregon bar and chain asking for Oregon but the didn't sell Oregon.
My wood customers come in to get wood and see me light sabre a 20" beech and they say, "think you can make my saw cut that way"?. I've sharpened and test run quite a few just not bought any. They Stihl sharpen the same they did 20 years ago.
It's good chain I just don't like the price/filing diamonds and I know how to cut dirt and stay sharp as I know you do too.
 
uncontrolabLEE said:
LLigetfa said:
uncontrolabLEE said:

It's good chain and I know how to cut dirt and stay sharp as I know you do too.

!!!!Good cutting tip here!!!
Care to share your technique LEE?

The technique I use for dirty logs:
I cut into the away side of the log first, then roll up over the top & then down thru the cut.
This way I have just a short cut into the dirty bark &
the rest of the cut is cutting from the inside clean wood to the outside of the log, no pulling the dirt into the cut.
 
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