Another Drying wood question?????

[RegencyNS]

I am just about to chunk up some newly cut birch and maple trees for burning in my stove later this winter. I just thought of something to help dry it out faster. If I score each chunk a few times with the saw, will that help it dry faster? As in hit the sides of the chunk a few times, maybe an inch deep.

 

[burntime]

Maybe, I would just split it smaller and make the pieces a little shorter if you HAVE to burn it this year. This will not really be ready...

 

[roac]

I think taking the bark completely off and splitting it down to size is best. Probably still won't be ready this season though.

 

[LLigetfa]

Lay it up for next year. It won't be anywhere near ready. If you absolutely have to burn it this year, chunk it up into 4 inch long "cookies".

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I am just about to chunk up some newly cut birch and maple trees for burning in my stove later this winter. I just thought of something to help dry it out faster. If I score each chunk a few times with the saw, will that help it dry faster? As in hit the sides of the chunk a few times, maybe an inch deep.

I wouldn't bother.

 

[RegencyNS]

Its only my 2nd year burning, and the first year was only about 2 months. So I basically really underestimated what I needed for a full year. I started out with about 5.5 cord and now I realize I'll probably need about 8-9 cord for the full year. So now I have 4 cord ordered to get me through the rest of the year because I'm out. Ill be ordering a full 9 cord in the spring for next year.

 

[jadm]

Its only my 2nd year burning, and the first year was only about 2 months. So I basically really underestimated what I needed for a full year. I started out with about 5.5 cord and now I realize I'll probably need about 8-9 cord for the full year. So now I have 4 cord ordered to get me through the rest of the year because I'm out. Ill be ordering a full 9 cord in the spring for next year.

The dreaded 'learning curve' hits again. :bug:

You are in good company around here. :coolsmile:

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Look for a company trying to get rid of pallets. They are incredibly dry and burn fast.

Since wood is a collection of straws that hold water cutting notches will let it dry faster. You now have shorter straws to drain the water out of. However, you are also eating a good amount of wood out with the notches and with that goes hard earned heat.

Matt

 

[gibson]

Its only my 2nd year burning, and the first year was only about 2 months. So I basically really underestimated what I needed for a full year. I started out with about 5.5 cord and now I realize I'll probably need about 8-9 cord for the full year. So now I have 4 cord ordered to get me through the rest of the year because I'm out. Ill be ordering a full 9 cord in the spring for next year.

Holy crap! Nine cords is a lot of wood. You must have a big house. I know it is also pretty cold where you are...

 

[karl]

I don't know how much wood you are talking about, but I would bring it inside. The low humidity and warmer temperature will help it dry out quickly.

 

[gpcollen1]

Split it small - and if you can store it somewhere where it will get great wind or inside with a fan will work too. Going to be a tough burn either way.

 

[skinnykid]

I am starting to get into my "good" wood (ash)

it was split and stacked in August, and although it was a blow down from sometime before I found it, it does not burn. It goes out alot and barely gives off heat. I am not sure what I will do for the rest of the winter. I might have to bite the bullet and buy some so called "seasoned" wood off of someone. I hate to do it since I take pride in cutting my own wood.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Shawn, you might get by with the birch if you split it small and stack it in the wind. Stack it loose; that is, don't try to be really neat with the stacking. You want the air to move through the pile. If possible, get a couple days worth in close to the stove before burning.

I highly doubt you will be able to burn the maple this year. It will only create big problems. Scoring it won't help much.

As soon as you get that wood in the Spring, get it split and stacked where it can dry. We like to stack it and leave it uncovered until late fall or early winter. Then cover the top only. This allows for maximum evaporation of the moisture. You will also notice that you will use less wood to heat your home once it is seasoned properly.




Skinnykid, if this is white ash, it should burn. However, we sometimes find an ash tree or two that the wood just don't burn well at all. I've even had some season for a year and still not burn good. I've never been able to figure this out because we one time burned all green ash for a whole winter and got along fine. Yes, we used more wood, but we kept warm.



Pallets, if you can find them, just might get you fellas through this season. Good luck.

 

[RegencyNS]

I was really hoping to get the new wood while I still had some seasoned left so that I could burn some dry wood with the unseasoned. My house is about 2500 square feet,.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Guys, if you're short on wood, go for pallets. That or see if there is somebody a few years ahead in your area you could swap wood with...

Matt

 

[Summertime]

If you guys end up burning much of that green wood make sure you check your liner for creosote buildup every few weeks.

 

[Ken45]

Nine cord? Good grief! You must really be in some terrible weather! I've only used about a cord so far.

If you end us using the new wood, split it small and stand a couple of days (or a week's) worth on end near the stove (but far enough away to be safe, of course). Keep it spaced apart for plenty of air flow. That will help a bit.

Ken

 

[LLigetfa]

Nine cord? Good grief! You must really be in some terrible weather! I've only used about a cord so far.

There's a BIG difference between Atlantic Canada and Southern Ohio. That said, shawnmd could be burning less than ideal wood that is not seasoned well either. Take a low BTU wood that is wet and most of the BTUs go into boiling off the moisture so the stove never gets into the zone.

 

[MadTripper]

If you guys end up burning much of that green wood make sure you check your liner for creosote buildup every few weeks.

I second that, especially when dealing with birch. I'd split it as small as you can, and rotate it so you are keeping a week or so as close to the stove as safely possible and some fan power on it. I'd also try and score some seasoned wood to at least mix and match. It will never be seasoned correctly but when you are stuck, thats the best you can do. You might also look for some standing dead in your area. If there is some, you can get a cord or so from a good tree that will help keep you ahead. I try and find one a month just to keep me active and get some different wood in the basement.

Tripper

 

[FWWARDEN]

What kind of stove are you using? I've pretty much been burning 24/7 with wood I cut last spring, and about 2.5 cords up the chimney so far. You might want to look into an efficient stove for next year. It ain't exactly warm here, I'm figuring on 5 cords total though, not 9 by January.

 

[Ivy Frank]

Most of the water that leaves wood leaves through the ends. The shorter you cut the wood, the quicker it will dry out.

Not sure it's worth the effort at this stage. Birch is notorious for not drying in its skin.