Another Flue Liner Question

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jbrown56

Feeling the Heat
Oct 18, 2007
273
bedford nh
Sorry to be a pest about this subject but I have a few more questions. I posted on Sat. that my brother in-law was to install 6" ss liner in my 8 x 12 flue. The inside diameter is 6'. The problem is the outside diameter is a little over 6 1/4". The id of the flue is 6 5/8". My concern is if the flue is less than perfect we will have trouble getting 22' of pipe down the chimney. My question is would I be better off getting the standard rigid 6" ss liner kit. I probably know better than asking this but is it possible to decrease to 5". I am getting the new stove this coming Monday and it is Jotul Oslo.I couldn't find anything on there website on this or an e mail contact.

Thanks Jim
 
I have the same size chimney flue and tried to fit a 6" flex down. It kept getting hung up on chunks of mortar and offsets. It just wouldn't go down, so I went with a 5.5", went down easily and drafts great.
 
Same here as Todd. I am running a little stove in the basement on a 5.5" flex liner approximately 32' long and a large stove on the first floor on 5.5" flex 21' long. Both are run through 8X11 flue tiles and draft great.

One thing about the 5.5" liners is that there are limited adapters available for them since six and eight inch are the norm.
 
I would rather use rigid if possible because I think it is a better product. My initial question was would I be squeezing it down too much with 5" rigid. My flue is a straight shot to the bottom.
 
gotcha - Not that they would necessarily know but did you ask the dealer their thoughts or perhaps they could call Jotul to see if a 5" pipe on that is acceptable?
 
We are going to start using DuraLiner 6" Oval Rigid for these types of flues. It is 4-3/4" on the skinny side, perfectly sized for an easy install. We priced out a 25ft chimney at around $1160 retail price for the whole liner system.
 
My flue is 8 x 12 and I got a 20 ft, 6in flex liner down it. I'm a first timer. I had the bottom 4 ft ovalized to get passed the damper area. Wasn't real easy but took my time, with a helper and it went. Had to make a pulling cone, first one got stuck, second one had more taper and it worked. It was harder bending a smooth offset at the bottom, didn't want to kink it.
 
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