Another Forced air Furnace Qualifying for Tax Credit

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One of the notes on the EnergyKing, is it only qualifies for wood only. Any unit thats burns coal doesn't qualify for the credit. That puts out alot of other manufacturers of wood furnaces.
 
LADYGO DIVA said:
i hate subjective testimonies as to how good a furnace is
"IN GOD WE TRUST, ALL OTHERS NEED FACTS & FIGURES"

I agree 100%
 
nice looking unit, whats it cost? and keith is correct to qualify it must be a wood only unit , multifuel units which are rated for coal or adding of coal do not qualify due to the coal addition.
 
I talked to the manufacturers today about this furnace. They had alot of good things to say about it. It uses quite a bit less wood then the other furnaces they manufacture. The list price is around 3200, and they used the Caddy as a comparison for emissions. I asked about them getting EPA certified, and they are in progress with it. Hopefully here within the next few months, they will be EPA Certified. They said you could burn coal, but if you buy the shaker grates and forced draft it doesn't qualify for the tax credit, being coal isn't a biomass. This would be something worth checking into for anyone who wants to upgrade. She said if you burned 10 cords, you would use maybe 6 to 7 with this furnace.
 
cool...another high tech wood furnace ,my only gripe would probably be the small ash door ,i like how its insulated with firebrick up the walls and on top plus the double wall back top hold in heat and all that exchanger area too. a little more old school/traditional in looks in the department but seems like its competitive to the caddy in innovations
 
One thing about the Energy King, I don't see any area to clean the heat exchangers. Over time they could build up and transfer less heat. It does have a massive firebox. It would be nice to see it in action. Some of the good features are the primary air above, glass wash, firebrick lining, secondary heat exchangers and preheated secondary air. Overall the Energy King is an impressive unit. One thing it should have is a front and back hole with preheated air. This acts as a pilot for the secondaries. Hopefully someone on here gets one and posts about it this winter.
 
laynes69 said:
Hopefully someone on here gets one and posts about it this winter.
laynes i think we are equally awaiting your review just as much ..now go put some shorts on and toss some oak splits in yours so we can get an idea of what that bad boy can do .
 
You can take the firebrick off the inside upper and clean the heat exchanger tubes. at least that's what the cut away looks like.
 
Laynes69 what does your unit look like in the back? Is there a blower on it, or is it just the unit that runs off the furnace fan? I was wondering if the only different between the CADDY PF01500 ($2400) and the PF01000 ($2900) w/ the addition of the fan and the option for electric element and of course the PRICE? I wonder if a person could just add a furnace fan onto it as well as a box, which I do have. See what you can tell me based on your model.
 
The unit is setup as a furnace. Its a stand alone, or can be added on another furnace in the us, illegal in canada. It has a 4 speed direct drive blower in the rear surrounded by a cabinet. There are 2 filters above the blower to filter the incoming air. The air comes in through the top in the rear, then under the firebox around it and over the top through the heat exchangers then into the ductwork. The add-on would be much simpler to install, but the 1950 hotblast caddy is setup like the wood/electric combo, or wood /oil without the oil or electric elements. The back has a removable panel to access the blower and wiring. The cabinet is zinc coated painted steel to resist moisture and rust. You could add a blower to the add-on im sure to use it as a central furnace. If you were to do that though, just purchase the unit with the blower. Its worth it.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/38440/
 
poooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooook said:
great post! lets see how YUKON furnaces interact with this via CRAPPIEKEITH.

Keith can answer also, but I'd like to weigh in, as an owner of a yukon. I will try to be non-biased, but I do this knowing that like a lot of us on here, I want to defend the decisions I have made for a furnace.

First of all, I like the energy king (ek), it has a window (or so they say, I still haven't see the window model in pics, except the one photoshopped with a fire in the widow photoshoped pic ) on the front door, I wish my Yukon had a window. I also like the way they create the secondary burn better than the yukon (I'm not sure why I like it better, not a scientific reason, maybe because it is more like all of those wood stoves with secondary burn tubes. But I'm guessing that the secondary burn tubes on the ek will need to be replaced about every 7 years or so, the warranty is for 6 years, do the math). If my yukon had a front window, then I'd say that I had the perfect furnace.

That said, the yukon is a tank, lots of steal, and built to last 30 years or longer (that is the warranty). I heated a 4800 sq ft house to 74 degrees (who said they wanted some numbers?), on 4 to 5 cords of not well seasoned wood (mostly elm, some hedge when it got really cold). I got burn times of 8 hours (by the end of the season, took me all season to learn how to do that), but it sits in an uninsulated garage (I bought drywall and insulation this week, any volunteers?), so I lost a lot of heat to heating the garage.

The yukon has a great design, and (I can't find the figures on either web sight, so this is opinion) more surface area, and better design on the secondary heat exchanger.

.06 draft (ek) would burn through more wood then .03 (yukon), just by the amount of air you are allowing through the furnace and up the chimney.

However, If I were yukon, I would be figuring out how to qualify for the tax credit, if all it takes is changing the secondary burn path and a window in the front door, then I would make those changes.

So if I were buying today, I would go with the yukon for the warranty (30 years vs 6), but I would have a hard time passing on the 1500 tax credit this year. If the warranties were both 30 years, I'd buy the ek for the window, I'd like to see my secondary burn.
 
wow just saw the energy king 385 weighs in at 760 pounds ... thats way more beef than alot of other wood furnaces on the market including yukons super size forced furnace according to the spec sheet
 
Hi All
The EK 385 is anew unit for EK. In the past they have always built a heavy duty add on furnace.7 gauge carbon steel firebox oh yeah!!.I have been installing there products for 20 years and they stand behind them well.Though there is rarely a need.I well be installing there new EK385 on 9/18 in a customers home.I will post a update after the install is complete. I am excited to see the changes they have made to the unit.The retail cost here in WI. is $3295.00 and $114.00 for filter box.
 
I've heard alot about the higher draft eating more wood than other furnaces. Depending on how the unit is built, I don't buy this at all. On a furnace like the caddy, and possibly the energy king you need that draft. If you run a weak draft your primary may do okay, but when you shut down that primary, you may lose your secondaries due to a low draft. The caddy when shut down burns very little from below, but really pushes heat at the baffle. And I don't take weight into the quality of a unit. Every unit is built differently, its in the design. I didn't know wood/coal furnaces qualified for the tax credit.
 
laynes69 said:
I've heard alot about the higher draft eating more wood than other furnaces. Depending on how the unit is built, I don't buy this at all. On a furnace like the caddy, and possibly the energy king you need that draft. If you run a weak draft your primary may do okay, but when you shut down that primary, you may lose your secondaries due to a low draft. The caddy when shut down burns very little from below, but really pushes heat at the baffle. And I don't take weight into the quality of a unit. Every unit is built differently, its in the design. I didn't know wood/coal furnaces qualified for the tax credit.


When you order your unit you can not put on shacker grates or forced air draft to make it qualifie.
 
laynes69 said:
I've heard alot about the higher draft eating more wood than other furnaces. Depending on how the unit is built, I don't buy this at all. On a furnace like the caddy, and possibly the energy king you need that draft. If you run a weak draft your primary may do okay, but when you shut down that primary, you may lose your secondaries due to a low draft. The caddy when shut down burns very little from below, but really pushes heat at the baffle. And I don't take weight into the quality of a unit. Every unit is built differently, its in the design. I didn't know wood/coal furnaces qualified for the tax credit.

You need draft for every furnace and every stove. The more draft, the more air available for fire, the more fire, the more wood burned, pretty simple concept. I'm sure furnaces use the draft differently, but if I burn mine at .06 I burn a lot more wood (to be fair, I have a hard time keeping mine at .03 except when I burn wood 20% or under, over 20% and it smokes a little at .03, and I end up running it at .04 or even .05).
As far a weight, there may be a weight where the extra weight is just overkill, and maybe that is 500 or 600 lbs, I don't know. But in a steal appliance, weight certainly does matter.
 
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