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Another install Question.

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by t.kelly0224, Sep 17, 2012.

  1. t.kelly0224

    t.kelly0224 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2012
    Messages:
    4
    So my new PB 105 is getting closer to completion. Major issue though, when I spec'ed the boiler out, I explained to the guy that I intended on venting through a 2x8 band sill. He told me no issue and I ordered the boiler. Well come to find out, it's a really big issue, as I cannot get a thimble even remotely small enough to fit in a 2x8 cavity. So my new course of action is to punch a hole in the concrete, and vent that way.

    My question is, why do I need to use PL pipe. There are no combustible surfaces, power vented units usually run cooler stack temps than non. I just don't see any reason to waste $450 on a chimney setup that I can spend $100 on with galvanized.

    Any and all thoughts are appreciated, this whole fiasco has put me in a bit of a bind.

    Thanks

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  2. SmokeEater

    SmokeEater Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2011
    Messages:
    309
    Loc:
    Northeastern NY
    t.kelly I had a little problem with adapting my 4 inch double walled stainless and expensive vent to a 7" ceramic thimble. I had to use a close connector of black single walled double male to connect my 4" to the 7" thimble. I had my magnetic stack temp gauge mounted on that single walled piece and the temp never has reached 300 * F. The thermometer is aboiut 7 feet from the outlet of the PB105. Another thing to consider is that the manufacturer does require the doublewall twist-lock stainless vent and I'm wondering if your insurance company or local regs might require the expensive vent. You don't want to use galvanized pipe, it's not rated for high temps and is much thinner and more easily corroded than black vent pipe. Galvanized will also "boil off" zinc vapors that can be harmful.

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