Another new Oslo owner

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pccorrig1

New Member
Feb 16, 2007
4
I fired up my new Oslo for this first time Jan 23. It replaced an old, cracked 118 that kept me warm for 23 years. My first impressions: 1: I love the view of the fire. 2: It is much harder to get a good fire going than the 118 was, and 3: it takes longer before I actually feel the heat. But I have a major concern. Before going out this afternoon, I loaded 6 or 7 well seasoned ash splits onto of a bed of red hot coals. Within minutes, the stove was really ablaze, surface temp about 550, flue gas nearing 1000. I closed the draft completely, but was unable to stop the fire. Closing the draft on the 118 would reduce practically smother the fire.
So a question: Is this normal???
 
This is about the 2nd or 3d such incident this year. Modern EPA approved stoves don't cut off the air completely. Can you provide some details about the installation, particularly the chimney. Is the start collar sealed with stove cement where it meets the stove?
 
Yep , its normal. Your also not suppose to start a fire in a wood stove and then shut it off. The newer EPA stove are made to run efficient and are not made to damper and smoke and smolder like the older stoves.

The first thing i though of what you mentioned shutting the stove all the way down was starting a car and start driving down the road and shutting the car off in the middle of the road once you get up to speed.

The newer stoves work a little different of the old tanks of yester year. In you case try to not let the large load burn so long and so hot before shutting down the damper OR you can get the load going and tuen it down 50% let it char a little more and turn it down again. Letting a stove run wide open over 500° and a stack temp of 1000° is letting the stove run wild.

BTW: Welcome to the forum.
 
The chimney is a 24 foot straight run of Jackes-Evans 2100ht 6" id pipe. Regularly cleaned and in good condition despite its 23+ years of service. I asked 2 different dealers about chimney cement at the stove collar connection, and both said it was not needed. So I did not seal that joint.
 
When I first started burning wood in the 118, I read somewhere that a creosote fire in the chimney made a loud rushing noise, like a freight train. Shutting down the damper all the way was recommended in that event. This afternoon, when the fire appeared to be getting out of control, was the first time I ever closed the damper completely, and I was surprised that the fire continued to burn as vigorously as it did. Normally, once the fire gets burning, I run it about 3/8.

I've never had a fire extinguisher in the house, but after this experience, think I'll call a fireman friend for a recommendation, and go buy one.

Thank for the input...
 
So here is what I am guessing. MSG, please step in if you think it's incorrect.

The stove has a great, tall stack on it. Lots of wood is added, it outgasses mightilly but is shut down. Now there is a lot of unburnt gases in the stove, with a prodigeous draft. Air enters via the start collar and secondary combustion migrated to the stack. Does this sound plausible?

To mitigate the issue I would add a stack damper, seal the start collar. When a long burn is desired, put on maybe 4 larger splits, instead of the 7 medium splits, to slow combustion down a bit.
 
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