another newbie install question

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Swampy

Member
Sep 28, 2011
15
NW
Hello- new member and just ordered the englander 30 for $825 shipped thanks to all the great posts here...thanks, and sure looking foward to it!

My question is this- I will be running double wall stove pipe on the inside all the way to the peak and through the roof short of the ridgeline, so it will be a run of about 22 ft befoore it exits the roof. The roof is a 12/12 pitch; 45 degree angle. Can anyone see any problems running the stovepipe this distance at that angle. To be clear it is a vaulted ceiling and I was gonna run the pipe inside the house rather than out. This will save a bit over the class A, maybe a heat gain, and should look ok in our barn type of house. Any draft problems or something I'm missing?

Thanks for such a great site and what a wealth of knowledge!
 
Welcome swampy. Where in the NW do you hail from?

If the connector is going to be 22 ft, it really should be done with double-wall pipe. Otherwise the flue gases may cool down excessively and condensate to creosote as soon as they hit the outdoor class A pipe. Don't worry about trying to scavenge the last ounce of heat. The 30NC is an efficient heating machine.
 
Swampy:

You said, "Can anyone see any problems running the stovepipe this distance at that angle."
Response: Your Pipe should be straight up (lol)

You Said, "I was gonna run the pipe inside the house rather than out."
Response: at SOME point, it HAS to go "out" (lol)

-Soupy1957
 
Thanks guys..I realize straight up and out is the preferred installation that's why I'm asking. The stove won't work on a gable wall so that's why the chimney causes some problems so high up and out from a 12/12 roof. I was trying to describe the pipe won't exit straight out just above the stove like typical, it will follow along the inside feeling (*edit CEILING) at a 45 degree angle and go through the roof about 20-24 ft away. Will it draft?

Thanks.

Forgot... Yes it will be double wall inside the house and triple outside, and from Oregon.
 
Swampy: You said, "..........it will follow along the inside feeling."
Response: I know what you mean.........I HATE that "inside feeling" too!!

-Soupy1957
 
Looks like Soupy is feeling his oats today.


Welcome to the forum Swampy. Sounds like a good way to install. Enjoy.
 
Thanks Backwoods Savage... I was concerned about the 45 degree angle and proper draft.

You too Mr. Soupy...good to know the forum has plenty of grammar and spelling police to keep me on my toes, and you should be able to find many other helpful forums to to talk about your feelings...I mean ceilings! Ha, I should fit right in around here, I been cursed at times with a little smart a$$ myself. All in fun, got to break in the new guys right.

Thanks again
 
Swampy said:
Thanks Backwoods Savage... I was concerned about the 45 degree angle and proper draft.

You too Mr. Soupy...good to know the forum has plenty of grammar and spelling police to keep me on my toes, and you should be able to find many other helpful forums to to talk about your feelings...I mean ceilings! Ha, I should fit right in around here, I been cursed at times with a little smart a$$ myself. All in fun, got to break in the new guys right.

Thanks again


Trust me, there's enough smart a$$ in here for a mule train, or two ;-)


The 30 is a heating machine. You will not be disappointed.
 
A little smartass in context is OK around here. Just not for the sole purpose of being a netcop or smartass.

My concern on those huge interior connector pipe runs, especially with elbows, is support for the pipe. Lots of them out there but keep support and how you are going to clean that thing in mind.

I have a picture of a monster one somewhere but can't find it at the moment. Pretty much like you are talking about.
 
In your manual or in your pipe instructions there should be vertical height requirements for horizontal offsets. If your termination falls in the acceptable area of the tables you should in theory have draft. It will be hard to clean though. It would save you some dough to have the offset pipe inside, but a straight up chimney (properly supported) would likely function better, but will be just as hard if not harder to clean from the top down.
 
Now were talkin... Thanks guys. I hear ya on the support brackets, should be easy enough to make myself or find something. I would love to see a similar pic if its handy for you. I will be sure to take lots of pics also as this is new construction and ill be building a hearth of some sort.

I know its kinda uncommon but it just makes more sense this way given the height and distance to clear the peak.

It's not uncommon to see -10f here in central Oregon so I will be putting this Englander through the paces!

Thanks again!!
 
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