Another noob question Regency F2400

[Cire3]

I have a Regency F2400 and was hopeing someone has one to compare. When I close the air off should it kill the fire ?

I can close mine all the way and it will still burn. Nothing raging but still burns with fire. Just curious if I have an air leak or this is normal operation, I assumed that the fire could dam near be killed closing the air control all the way. I'm still learning how my new critter works and adjusting. I just don't want to adjust to a leak

I also have the 8" pipe problem so I know I'll have even more draft when I get the right pipe on it. Went to the stove store today and it was closed... Called the number and it said January hours would be spuratic ? What the heck is that ? Who takes a vacation on one of Michigan's coldest months. I mean they do fire places and stoves LOL

Also would like to take this time to say THANK YOU to all the posting members. I have read so much info on this site "never though I would get this into wood stoves....lol" You all provide a great source of info and help.

P.S.

Anyone have any 6" pipe for a poor man ??? I posted an ad in the wanted section That stuff is crazy expensive, thought the stove would cost more !

 

[Cire3]

By the way , it's enough to keep the secondary burn going.

 

[begreen]

Normal operation. You can't completely shut off the air in a modern EPA stove. If you are getting good secondary burn with the 8" pipe when the air control is closed, then there may not be an issue there either.

 

[Cire3]

Good to know.... I just want to get this done right and know it's running the same. I have to say I enjoy this choice. The cutting and splitting are great exercise " I realized this on my first face cord to split" keeps me moving in the winter days

I'm going to do the dollar bill trick on it's next cool down. Also I have had this stove 2 weeks now and I'm going to inspect the build up in the pipe. My smoking dragon with wet cut off's wowed me when in just one month the cap had build up of 1 1/2 to 2" balls. That put the fear right in me and I'm looking to keep the fire in the box

Wet wood just isn't worth it, and just trying to work with seasoned when snow is on it is hard enough. dry wood, dry wood, dry wood !

I'm keeping every trick in this forum

Again thanks

 

[Lumber-Jack]

Yep I'm heating the house with a Regency F2400 also, and with the air shut off as far as it can go and a good coal bed and nice dry wood it continues to burn with gentle secondary flames until it's reduced to coals.

 

[Cire3]

Got it off craigs and it looked to be in great condition 2 1/2 years old with blower and airmate for $300.00 , couldn't pass it up. I'm even more pleased it seems to be functioning well. Changed from a Kodiak smoke dragon.

Thanks for the input !

 

[Cire3]

Yep I'm heating the house with a Regency F2400 also, and with the air shut off as far as it can go and a good coal bed and nice dry wood it continues to burn with gentle secondary flames until it's reduced to coals.

By the way, what is the normal setting for you ? Do you ever close it up completely on good temp ? Still learning my settings.

 

[Lumber-Jack]

Yep I'm heating the house with a Regency F2400 also, and with the air shut off as far as it can go and a good coal bed and nice dry wood it continues to burn with gentle secondary flames until it's reduced to coals.

By the way, what is the normal setting for you ? Do you ever close it up completely on good temp ? Still learning my settings.

Excellent price, I bought mine new and paid just nearly full retail. This is my second winter using it.

As far as the setting go it depends on the wood and how hot the fire box is when you set it, and most of all how much heat do you want from it. Even if you get a good roaring fire going in there, but it's a start up fire from a cold box I find I can't turn it all the way down or it will just die down and smolder. Got to get the firebox up in the top end of the operating range and keep it there for a while and get a nice hot coal bed in there before adding some fresh splits, then I can maintain secondary flames with the air shut down all the way and keep the glass clean. I found that how clean the glass is, is a good indicator of how clean and efficient I am burning.
My biggest problem is letting the house, or at least the stove room, get too hot. My house is only just over 1500 sq. ft. (and growing), so the stove easily heats the whole place and more, especially when temps outside are not that cold and it's hard to not get the stove room too warm. So when it's warmer out I try to burn smaller splits in smaller fires with the air control open at about half way. That way I don't get as much heat in the house, but am still able to burn clean with no smoldering, but of course these smaller fires have shorter burn times, which is fine if someone is home (or awake) to feed it, but for long burns I have to get the box hot and develop a good coal bed, which means the stove room is gona get warm.

 

[Cire3]

Think mine is running good. I have about the same results and that's good to know. When I'm up and running I can close it and keep a secondary burn and almost noting from the stack

I have mine installed in my garage and the second floor hangs half way over it. The good part about that is that I have a hump in the ceiling at the middle. That's my heating duct I'm getting a blower to feed the duct that goes directly to the upstairs rooms. So I can blast the house and still have heat in the garage area. I do computer work in my garage and store parts from my computer store, should work well. Taking the heat from the top of the room should help with not allowing the room to get too hot.

Have to say I'm overall happy with this decision to go with a wood burner. Didn't know there was this much to learn, but I consider it quite fun.

Thanks for sharing your results !