Another old drafty wood single pane winder bites the dust! See temp diff!!!

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,110
Salem NH
Hello

As time and money allows, I am replacing some really worn out 1962 windows with New Anderson 400series window!

I mean new with the nailing flange! (I do not like more expensive Replacement Windows!!!) No old sill left in and all the area between the house studs and window case is filled with ROXUL. The best Rock Wool for around windows and doors! Yes it is more tedious to push in Roxul with a putty knife than to spray that great stuff but the results are better!! Also more flexible and will NOT pull away from the old wood causing a crack for cold air to come in!

See pics below

So at 10 PM at night with the temperature inside at 71 Deg F and the Temp outside is at 32 Deg F. We did not turn the heat on yet!

See the difference below between an old window and the new window on the same back side of the house!!
 

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I'm curious: Would a wood winder window (casement?) necessarily be draftier than a double hung window?
I would think if all things being equal, which is probably not the case here, the casement window would be less drafty since there'd be an unbroken, refridgerator-type seal.
 
Just wondering, what is that window in between, the house and garage???? (I sure hope not!)
 
Way to go Don! I put the 400 Series in several years ago and did not look back. I have had zero issues with the windows. The last window I replaced was an old Andersen single pane hopper style crank-out over the kitchen sink. This old window had the metal weatherstrip, and when we did dishes, the window fogged up from being so cold and condensing. I picked up a small 400 series and what a huge difference that made in the kitchen. I did use a few Harveys in the dining room since I did not want to disturb the woodwork. They worked great too.

I used low-expansion DAP door and window spray foam that does not bow the jambs. Just remember to always check the corner to corner measurements to ensure a square fit. My old windows were cottage style two over one pane, so I made single dividers to create the two pane look on the top sash. It kept the character of the house intact. The sills on the 400 series are nice composite material with again zero issues.
 
NATE379 said:
Just wondering, what is that window in between, the house and garage???? (I sure hope not!)

Hi Nate

The old window is under the deck leaning against the house awaiting a one-way ride to the town landfill! LOL
 
fishingpol said:
Way to go Don! I put the 400 Series in several years ago and did not look back. I have had zero issues with the windows. The last window I replaced was an old Andersen single pane hopper style crank-out over the kitchen sink. This old window had the metal weatherstrip, and when we did dishes, the window fogged up from being so cold and condensing. I picked up a small 400 series and what a huge difference that made in the kitchen. I did use a few Harveys in the dining room since I did not want to disturb the woodwork. They worked great too.

I used low-expansion DAP door and window spray foam that does not bow the jambs. Just remember to always check the corner to corner measurements to ensure a square fit. My old windows were cottage style two over one pane, so I made single dividers to create the two pane look on the top sash. It kept the character of the house intact. The sills on the 400 series are nice composite material with again zero issues.

Nice fishingpol

Did you stain or paint the inside? I am staining mine with a light honey pine.
 
NATE379 said:
Never mind, it's the reflection in the glass

Yes, that is a very good reflection! Much better than the old windows reflection!! LOL
 
velvetfoot said:
I'm curious: Would a wood winder window (casement?) necessarily be draftier than a double hung window?
I would think if all things being equal, which is probably not the case here, the casement window would be less drafty since there'd be an unbroken, refridgerator-type seal.

Good question velvefoot

Since the new windows are so tight, I think it does not matter so much. I have a new 10 deg Anderson Bow with 4 casements and they are not any better than the new double hung.
 
good choice.
I was deciding what to replace all my windows with since I was gutting my house.
I went andersen 400 all the way around mainly because of the tax rebate last year. I ended up having 12 double hung and 1 casement to replace. The windows I replaced weren't too awful (except for 2), I was actually thinking that I may not have even had to replace them. I was surprised... They had a nailing flange (approx 30 years old), but there was no silicone and no flashing on any part of the windows. The windows were in perfect condition on the outside, not a bit of rot on any of them. I was VERY surprised to say the least.

Does roxul prevent air flow as well? I thought that was the main point of the foam sealant. regular insulation (fiberglass/cellulose) to my knowledge did not prevent air flow.
 
Don2222 said:
fishingpol said:
Way to go Don! I put the 400 Series in several years ago and did not look back. I have had zero issues with the windows. The last window I replaced was an old Andersen single pane hopper style crank-out over the kitchen sink. This old window had the metal weatherstrip, and when we did dishes, the window fogged up from being so cold and condensing. I picked up a small 400 series and what a huge difference that made in the kitchen. I did use a few Harveys in the dining room since I did not want to disturb the woodwork. They worked great too.

I used low-expansion DAP door and window spray foam that does not bow the jambs. Just remember to always check the corner to corner measurements to ensure a square fit. My old windows were cottage style two over one pane, so I made single dividers to create the two pane look on the top sash. It kept the character of the house intact. The sills on the 400 series are nice composite material with again zero issues.

Nice fishingpol

Did you stain or paint the inside? I am staining mine with a light honey pine.

Semi-gloss paint upstairs. Downstairs are unfinished, but will receive a light stain to match the existing wood and then polyurethane. Just don't have much time to get to that, maybe next spring.
 
Hass said:
good choice.
I was deciding what to replace all my windows with since I was gutting my house.
I went andersen 400 all the way around mainly because of the tax rebate last year. I ended up having 12 double hung and 1 casement to replace. The windows I replaced weren't too awful (except for 2), I was actually thinking that I may not have even had to replace them. I was surprised... They had a nailing flange (approx 30 years old), but there was no silicone and no flashing on any part of the windows. The windows were in perfect condition on the outside, not a bit of rot on any of them. I was VERY surprised to say the least.

Does roxul prevent air flow as well? I thought that was the main point of the foam sealant. regular insulation (fiberglass/cellulose) to my knowledge did not prevent air flow.

Roxul is much heavier than cellulose/fiberglass but with nailing flanges and outside trim boards there should be no cracks for air flow?
 
Nice work! Just finished replacing the last 9 old 1968 windows in my house with new replacements - no drafts is a good thing! Cheers!
 
A casement should be better than a double hung more because it pulls itself into the seal snugly - whereas a double hung always has very light air movement around it's side tracks and such. Also, wind will move a double hung around more.

Now, that being said, you go with a quality built window with good sealing characteristics and it may have no measurable difference.
 
joefrompa said:
A casement should be better than a double hung more because it pulls itself into the seal snugly - whereas a double hung always has very light air movement around it's side tracks and such. Also, wind will move a double hung around more.

Now, that being said, you go with a quality built window with good sealing characteristics and it may have no measurable difference.

X2, I have both types (Anderson) and cannot measure any leakage
 
A double hung should not leak much at all if its properly weatherstripped. Old fashioned spring bronze or cheap easy to use stick on vinyl v-seal will do the trick. Ive got 100 year old windows that are as tighter than the vinyl replacements the PO put in my kitchen.

Also if your old windows are not rotten you can save yourself mucho $$$$, hassle and get 90% the performance of a replacement job with a good inexpensive storm like the Harvey Tru-Channel. Far too many good windows go to the landfill for no other reason than window company hype.
 
jharkin said:
A double hung should not leak much at all if its properly weatherstripped. Old fashioned spring bronze or cheap easy to use stick on vinyl v-seal will do the trick. Ive got 100 year old windows that are as tighter than the vinyl replacements the PO put in my kitchen.

Also if your old windows are not rotten you can save yourself mucho $$$$, hassle and get 90% the performance of a replacement job with a good inexpensive storm like the Harvey Tru-Channel. Far too many good windows go to the landfill for no other reason than window company hype.


Hello jharkin

Those Harvey Tru-Channels look really nice!
http://www.harveybp.com/product.aspx?pid=1
 
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