Another Venting Question.....

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

ScottyDaug

Member
Dec 26, 2010
75
Maine
I have been tearing my hair out trying to come up with a location for our new USSC 6041PT that will allow it to have a feasible venting location. As stated in a previous post the original plan was to have the stove on a gable wall, but do to window and door locations I'm ruling this out as not feasible. The new location I'm considering is on an eave side wall. I purchased the Simpson Pellet Vent Kit. My concern is the steel roofing on the house. If I use the 90 degree elbow and the 1' section plus the hood it would put the pipe well into the danger zone of ice and snow sliding off the roof. If I omitted the 1' section, and just used the 90 plus the hood I think the roof overhang would be enough to protect it. The latter configuration would put the opening of the hood around 13.5 inches away from the wall. Two questions, is this an adequate distance, and if so can I expect excessive soot on the exterior of the house. I would be grateful for any input regarding this. It seems like every venting and location scenario I come up with won't work out.

Frustrated In Maine,

ScottyDaug
 
Depends on your stove and wind. If you have swirling wind you probably will get some soot on the house.
What is acceptable depends on your situation. If you don't mind cleaning a little soot off in the spring as a cost compared to other fuel cost savings it isn't that big of a deal.
You have a problem with ice chunks breaking the pipe and limits your choices. Some of the newer stoves produce less soot then others. Generally a stove with a agitator in the pot will produce more soot then a stove without a agitator.
What you could do is dream up some device that would deflect the ice so it wouldn't hit the stove pipe.
 
rona said:
......Generally a stove with a agitator in the pot will produce more soot then a stove without a agitator......

Don't think that is a valid statement, but I'm willing to listen.....please explain why you think that, or show the data supporting it.
 
imacman said:
rona said:
......Generally a stove with a agitator in the pot will produce more soot then a stove without a agitator......

Don't think that is a valid statement, but I'm willing to listen.....please explain why you think that, or show the data supporting it.

Seeing my stove is agitated, I wanna know too! :)
 
How about installing 3 -4 snow stops on your roof over the area where your stove is vented. They will keep the snow from sliding off and damaging your vent pipe.
 
ScottyDaug said:
I have been tearing my hair out trying to come up with a location for our new USSC 6041PT that will allow it to have a feasible venting location. As stated in a previous post the original plan was to have the stove on a gable wall, but do to window and door locations I'm ruling this out as not feasible. The new location I'm considering is on an eave side wall. I purchased the Simpson Pellet Vent Kit. My concern is the steel roofing on the house. If I use the 90 degree elbow and the 1' section plus the hood it would put the pipe well into the danger zone of ice and snow sliding off the roof. If I omitted the 1' section, and just used the 90 plus the hood I think the roof overhang would be enough to protect it. The latter configuration would put the opening of the hood around 13.5 inches away from the wall. Two questions, is this an adequate distance, and if so can I expect excessive soot on the exterior of the house. I would be grateful for any input regarding this. It seems like every venting and location scenario I come up with won't work out.

Frustrated In Maine,

ScottyDaug

I see your problem now.

You have nothing to gain or lose by trying the shorter length first and monitoring the amount of soot hitting the house.

If the soot becomes a problem then add the extra piece and fab up some support brackets or a protection bar or have a buddy make or weld one up for you.

Also remember, you can reduce your clearances to windows and doors if you use an OAK.
 
Ask anyone who burns a Countryside stove or a Harman PC45 with a agitator how much soot they get burning corn. Then ask what happens when they convert their Countryside to a pot style burner. You will find they will brag about how little soot is on the wall compared to burning with a agitator.
You can't convert a '45" to a clinker style stove but you can switch stoves to a pot type and you will notice day and night difference.
This may be noticed only when burning corn which is our normal fuel where we live. I can't tell you if the results are the same when burning pellets.
If you go to IBC forum and post that question you will have several people telling you the same thing.
Do you notice the agitator constantly turning up the soot and ashes? Doesn't it make sense to see more ash and soot flying out of the exh when that happens versus a pot where the waste sort of turns into a clinker that is removed manually or dropped down into the clinker bucket automatically?
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try it with just the elbow. If soot becomes a problem I can always add another horizontal length then come up with a solution to the sliding snow/ice.
 
I have one stove with a "close" vent. It's directly at drip line, but can't be farther out without interfering with my neighbors access. It in an area with lots of swirling wind and it does get some discoloration, but no major soot build up. If you have the rood, move it away, and use the staged snow stops. I don't have a problem with chunks, but when it gets to single digits like tonight, I can visualize any snow/moisture building up on the cap. I would recommend adding an extra brace at the last section just in case you get a crash, and do the last vertical with a one foot section of pipe, that way if humpty dumpty falls, your replacement pipe is minimum.

As far as ash from a stirred pot, it may apply with "dirty" corn and some of the other high ash fuels, but pellets are different. Stirred pots with corn are a necessity, "convection" pots are usually all you need for pellets. Call me stupid, but it's a non-issue.
 
A clinker pot or non stir pot is a much cleaner burn for corn. The stir pot stoves that i have seen always look so sooted up on the inside as soon as you touch the you are covered in black soot. With my st croix burning corn i i can clean the entire stove and not get my hand that dirty. The ash is white to light brown which shows a good clean burn.
 
I beg to differ with the idea of a stirrer is needed for corn. look at St Croix, and Bixby stoves. They are both pot type and are among the cleanest burning stoves out there. One requires a manual pot dump and the other is fully automatic.
If you buy corn direct from the producer and he has his combine set right there is no dirty corn.
You have much more problems with corn if you are buying from your local feed store or grain elevators. Each time corn is moved through augers etc it will crack leaving fines etc
 
I'm not familiar with this stove, so I can only address the OP question in general, but it may help others with the topic if we knew what you are going to use for fuel. I think the topic is soot build on the siding, not stir sticks.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.