Any info on the Merlin3

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burleymike

Feeling the Heat
Sep 17, 2010
279
SE Idaho
A few years ago we were visiting some family in Colorado and I came across a guy selling this Merlin 3 wood stove for $250. My wife liked the look of it and wanted to put it in out basement when we finish it. Anybody know anything good bad or ugly about these stoves?
 
I couldn't find any info on them but from their website they look like nice stoves, similar looking to some of the Morsos maybe? The Merlin 3 does appear to be on the EPA list for 2010, so unless that's an older version that isn't certified for some reason, that should be a decent EPA stove for that price!
 
Do you by any chance have the address for their website? I could not find anything other than EPA listings for their stoves. Yes it is an EPA stove it has the tag. I will post some pictures it seems like a really nice stove.
 
It comes up in a couple different places, the one I saw yesterday was this one: it's a UK site.
http://www.mkfireplaces.co.uk/merlin-stoves.html

http://www.mkfireplaces.co.uk/stoves.html

Then there's this website which indicates they are made or sold by dealers called Bronpi?

http://www.merlinfireplaces.net/Bronpi Menu2.htm

Looks like it must be a European stove, I guess? I didn't see the "3" on those sites but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough!
You might have trouble finding parts if you needed them, but then again you might not!
 
tickbitty said:
It comes up in a couple different places, the one I saw yesterday was this one: it's a UK site.
http://www.mkfireplaces.co.uk/merlin-stoves.html

http://www.mkfireplaces.co.uk/stoves.html

Then there's this website which indicates they are made or sold by dealers called Bronpi?

http://www.merlinfireplaces.net/Bronpi Menu2.htm

Looks like it must be a European stove, I guess? I didn't see the "3" on those sites but maybe I wasn't looking hard enough!
You might have trouble finding parts if you needed them, but then again you might not!

(the lower link doesn't seem to link, you can cut and paste it, or just google the words merlin, wood stoves like I did and it will come up.)
 
We had one poster installing a Bronpi insert a few years back IIRC. Nothing special to note though.
 
Well I sure feel stupid that I even posted about this stove. Like I said it has been sitting for 2 years now. I decided to take some pictures to post on this thread and I open the door and there is the tag I remember. Only thing is it has more than just EPA info on it. It turns out it was made in New Zealand by Helvetia Industries.

I also discovered it has an automatic bypass when you open the door. I am actually looking forward to installing this stove in the basement someday I really want to see how well it works.
 

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Set the stove outside. Install some black single pipe. Load it up and see how it burns . :gulp: Good looking stove. Not doing any good collecting dust. :ahhh:
 
It's an interesting stove. Can you post an interior shot? I am wondering if it is lined, has a baffle and/or any secondary air feed.
 
The firebox does not have brick on the sides it has steel plates that are about 1/2" off the wall and brick on the back. The first shot (DSCN9585.jpg) shows the automatic bypass damper, the second (DSCN9586.jpg) shows the secondary air tube in back and the brick, the third (DSCN9587.jpg) shows another shot of the bypass damper. Sorry I could not get better pictures, the garage is a mess and the firebox has a lot of ash in it. The garage is another of my projects.
 

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Very nice! It has some innovative designs. The stove looks to be in pretty good shape. Are you going to clean it up and try using it?
 
Looks pretty nice! No need to feel stupid, the next time someone runs across one of these you will be the expert!
That website above http://www.mkfireplaces.co.uk/merlin-stoves.html says all kinds of stuff about the "special technology" without really saying exactly what it is! Does sound cool though. I am wondering if the Brompi site really has anything to do with them or not - but perhaps they do, just regionally.

You have a Kiwi stove!
 
I really want to get it setup but I will have to wait until next year. I need to do some serious work on the basement before I even think about putting a stove down there. Every spring when irrigation season starts we get a couple inches of water for a few days a month. The previous owners poured a second slab to try to stop it, of course that did not work. I installed half a drain tile and sump pump which has almost eliminated the water but I also have a pile up to the ceiling of broken up slab I need to get out of there. That was going to be my fall project until the doc said all this pain in my gut is due to a small hernia.

Maybe this spring I will be able to get the egress window cut out and build a ramp to cart the broken concrete out. Once I get the rest of the drain tile in and the floor closed up I want to install that stove as well as insulate the walls. I know we lose a lot of heat through that basement, it will be nice to have a stove burning down there to keep the floors nice and warm.
 
Not to hijack a thread but I have some questions about a Merlin3 myself. Just purchased a new house and trying to get ready for winter. House has a Merlin 3 on the main level (also, a Dell Point Europa 75 pellet stove in the basement i'm also posting about b/c that's giving me some problems, too)

Anyways, the merlin is there and seems "idiot proof" but for some reason, is turning out to be a hassle. On first inspection, there was some bent/abnormal metal plate in the ceiling that was blocking the flue i think. It came out easily and I wonder if the previous owner had wedged it up there to prevent a draft? Is it part of the stove? After removing that, i was able get a small fire going and had good smoke out the chimney (so i figure that's not the issue) but every time i close the door, the fire goes out. Any thoughts or ideas? I am going to try to get some pics up... am really wondering if that piece i took out needs to be there or not.

Thanks in advance. I smell a call to a stove expert in the near future to get all these issues figured out but figured i'd start here.

Edit: in looking at Mike's pic, it looks like the part that came out is the top/ceiling plate.
 
here are the pics:

Picture of stove
stove1.jpg


Here's image of box with that panel in place on top of box. It wasn't in very well and loose. I wonder if it was in backwards. Seems like no way for air to get out. (FYI- i removed all the bricks that i was able- 6 bottom and back left.
toppanelin.jpg


Picture of top of box with that panel removed
insidewithoutpanel.jpg


Pic of that panel i removed... it's a little bent/warped
toppanelout1.jpg


Picture of the bottom air vents and flow handle. I vacuumed out the box and made sure the vents were clear
airflow1.jpg


Now that the box is cleaned, etc, i'm tempted to try lighting another fire but i'm a little worried about the status of that top panel and whether i can light one with that removed.
 
does not have the fire bricks in the back like yours does. Either mine is missing those or yours has them added on.

The part you removed is the baffle which you really need to have in place. Without it the secondary combustion will not work and you will have flames going right up the flue pipe resulting in very high stack temperatures.

I got a photo of where the smoke is supposed to exit the stove. It is right above the door a very small passage that is why they built the automatic bypass in the door. It almost sounds like you are having a draft problem. Check your chimney and cap to be sure they are clear. How high is your chimney? If all checks out good with your draft and wood quality you might try keeping the door open enough to keep the bypass open until the fire is hot enough to get a good draft.
 

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Mike-
first of all, thank.you very much for the info, pics and help. Had a couple other ?'s

1. Previous owner did custom highend masonry and loves his stone so wouldn't be surprised if he added the brick. There was a layer of brick on bottom of box. Is there any reason to get rid of brick? Could it inhibit airflow?

2. Does your baffle come out easily? Mine just about came off in my hand. Is it adjustable to change airflow or fixed? Can you help me with the proper orientation for the baffle? Which way does the thick end (with the 2 additional bands of metal ) go?

Thanks again.

- matt

Edit: not sure about chimney. It shares a chimney with our oil burner. I definitely saw smoke coming out of chimney when I had small fire going and door open. Those bottom front air vents were extremely clogged for my attempt
Could that have been the problem? Not gonna try again until I get this baffle figured out.
 
Mike or anybody-

Where does this stove draw air from? I have 3 small holes in front of box and then the three or four larger oval vents beneath them. I am not sure where those larger vents go as the run under the stove to the back somewhere.

Mike- are there any vents along the back of the box? I wonder if those added bricks in mine are somehow stifling airflow.

Thanks.

-matt
 
I will have to look at mine again tomorrow to be of more help. I only pushed up on the baffle and it did just move like it is just laying there. I don't think it is screwed or fastened into place with anything but it's own weight. I will see how difficult it is to take out tomorrow.

I think you may have a draft problem because it is sharing a flue with the oil burner. I know every manual I have ever seen for a wood stove specifically warns against sharing a flue with anything else. How tall overall is your chimney and what is the inside diameter of the chimney? Is it a masonry chimney? Another thing that really chokes off the draft is a 90degree elbow so close to the stove.

Mine does have a space between the firebricks in the rear and I would bet that is how air enters the firebox other than the secondary tube at the top rear end of the firebox. Those bricks may very well be blocking off some of your air supply.

However it is possible they are supposed to be in there and mine is missing them. I don't remember any bricks on the bottom of the firebox on mine either perhaps the previous owner removed all the bricks to make getting it out of his house easier. When I bought it, it was in his garage so I never saw it all setup.
 
Mike-

Thanks again for more great info. As far as the chimney goes, I am not sure that's the issue. The chimney has 2 separate" tubes" for lack of a better word... one dedicated to the oil burner in the basement and the stove has its own. I pulled the tubing out of the wall and both tube and chimney are pristine and clear.

I don't have that draft tube at the top rear of the box... the way I put the baffle in doesn't leave any room. I think my placement of the baffle may be part of the problem. If there's anyway to get me a pic of the upper rear of the box, that'd be awesome. I'll try to get pics of mine up tomorrow.
thanks
 
I took some pictures today they are not great I need a better camera. I was able to remove the baffle by just pushing up on it and moving it to the side. It should rest above that secondary air tube in the back. If yours is warped badly and allowing smoke to go up the flue you might take it to a welding shop and see if they can cut you a new piece of steel or consider some ceramic fiber blanket.

Since mine has no firebricks at all except for the two large pieces with the gap at the back you might consider removing the added bricks your stove has. I do think they are part of the problem.

It is good to hear your chimney has two liners inside that helps rule out the chimney. How tall is the chimney though? If it is less than 15' that could be part of the problem. Did you try opening a window a little in the house when you had the fire, perhaps you have a very tight house and could not get enough air to give a good draft.

The last photo (DSCN9597.jpg) is one I took with the baffle loose to one side.
 

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Have been away at a conference but wanted to give an update:

Got the stove running well!!! I did a couple of things.

1) Removed all the bricks along the back (but kept ones on bottom). Not sure this was that important... still can't figure out if there's any sort of air draw from the back of the box.

2) As was suggested above, i think i might not have been impatient or too conservative on my fire... I don't think i built a big enough fire/coal bed before closing the door and wasn't getting the secondary convection or maybe wasn't I built a much bigger fire stoked and THEN closed the door and the stove did great.

Still debating if i want to put the bricks along the back of the box. Might give it a try next time.

Mike, thanks for all the help and advice. It's a nice little stove... had it fired up for about 6 hrs and put out some big heat considering its size. Looking forward to using it this winter.
 
That is great to hear, glad you got it working. I can't wait to get mine up and running.
 
Is anyone on this thread knowledgeable about the operational system (computer board) of the Dell Point Europa? Or could you direct me to another website/chatroom? Thanks
 
EmmaZ, post this question in the Pellet Mill and Corn Crib forum on this website. They should be able to help you there.
 
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