Any last bit of advice before I install mu Duraplus roof flashing, collar, etc.
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Measure twice- cut once! Seriously, we just did our last weekend. Aside from killing a couple sawz-all blades going through three layers of shingles (yes, three!), it went fine. Just remember to leave 2" clearance around the triple-wall where it goes through the roof.
Locate the centerline of the hole you want to put thru your roof &
drill a pilot hole thru that location, from the underside
Leave the bit in the hole & go up on your roof with the flashing & a YELLOW
or WHITE crayon.
Use a torpedo level to get the drill bit plumb & center the flashing on the drill bit.
Line up the lower edge of the flashing with a shingle line so it'll look square...
Mark the outer corners - with your crayon for figuring out where you hafta remove nails..
Trace the inside of the flashing cone onto your shingles with the crayon.
With your sawzall, cut out the tracing, starting at the highest point...
I generally try to stay ONE INCH outside the tracing lines to allow for some flashing adjustment,
but depending on your roof framing, this may not be possible...
When I get to about the "9 O'clock & 3 O'clock" positions on the tracing, I try to make the cuts vertical to
a point ONE INCH below the lowest point of the tracing & then I cut horizontally to join both cuts...
The final cut looks like a Capital letter D with the flat surface at the bottom...
Hope THAT made sense!
With a flat bar, carefully pry up your shingles & "pop" any roofing nails that will interfere or prevent
you from sliding the flashing up underneath...
I start the flashing under the shingles under the first edge below where the 9 & 3 positions are...
Slide the flashing into position, but don't anchor it until you have your vent pipe running thru it
& you're sure everything is plumb & square...
Anchor it with about 5 roofing nails across the lower exposed edge, maybe 1-1/2" up from that edge.
Silicone the crap out of those nail heads& all exposed edges & back up under the shingles
& ANYWHERE you think it could POSSIBLY leak...
Smooth the silicone with your finger(s)
Before you install the storm collar, goob (technical term) silicone around the pipe
where it exits the flashing cone & jam the storm collar down into position...
Goob the top of the storm collar & smooth it with your finger to make it look presentable...
Install your final pieces of of pipe & roof bracing (if required) & cap &
once you've safely made it back to ground level, go in & build your fire!
drill a pilot hole thru that location, from the underside
Leave the bit in the hole & go up on your roof with the flashing & a YELLOW
or WHITE crayon.
Use a torpedo level to get the drill bit plumb & center the flashing on the drill bit.
Line up the lower edge of the flashing with a shingle line so it'll look square...
Mark the outer corners - with your crayon for figuring out where you hafta remove nails..
Trace the inside of the flashing cone onto your shingles with the crayon.
With your sawzall, cut out the tracing, starting at the highest point...
I generally try to stay ONE INCH outside the tracing lines to allow for some flashing adjustment,
but depending on your roof framing, this may not be possible...
When I get to about the "9 O'clock & 3 O'clock" positions on the tracing, I try to make the cuts vertical to
a point ONE INCH below the lowest point of the tracing & then I cut horizontally to join both cuts...
The final cut looks like a Capital letter D with the flat surface at the bottom...
Hope THAT made sense!
With a flat bar, carefully pry up your shingles & "pop" any roofing nails that will interfere or prevent
you from sliding the flashing up underneath...
I start the flashing under the shingles under the first edge below where the 9 & 3 positions are...
Slide the flashing into position, but don't anchor it until you have your vent pipe running thru it
& you're sure everything is plumb & square...
Anchor it with about 5 roofing nails across the lower exposed edge, maybe 1-1/2" up from that edge.
Silicone the crap out of those nail heads& all exposed edges & back up under the shingles
& ANYWHERE you think it could POSSIBLY leak...
Smooth the silicone with your finger(s)
Before you install the storm collar, goob (technical term) silicone around the pipe
where it exits the flashing cone & jam the storm collar down into position...
Goob the top of the storm collar & smooth it with your finger to make it look presentable...
Install your final pieces of of pipe & roof bracing (if required) & cap &
once you've safely made it back to ground level, go in & build your fire!
Do I have to come up through the bottom of the flashing with the pipe or can I push it down through from the roof? I already have the pipe in the attic anchored close to the roof and will not have room to slide the new pipe up from the bottom through the hole in roof. Thanks for the info.
Do I have to come up through the bottom of the flashing with the pipe or can I push it down through from the roof? I already have the pipe in the attic anchored close to the roof and will not have room to slide the new pipe up from the bottom through the hole in roof.You should be able to slide it down thru the flashing cone, but you might wanna have a helper underneath to line the connections up...
And the ridges on the connections for the chimney can be a pain to get through the flashing from above, keep a pair of pliers or small pry bar handy if necessary (for the flashing, not the chimney).
Highbeam
Minister of Fire
One detail that has irritated me about my installation. When you slide your flashing under the shingles the bottoms of those shingles will need to be cut to match the curve of the cone. When you cut these shingles leave 1/2" or so clearance so that you can clean the junk out of the gap between the uphill side of teh cone and the bottom of those shingles. Otherwise the crap will accumulate under the shingles and be all lame.
The other thing is that you need to use silicone that is grey. Don't use white silicone on the storm collar or it looks stupid. Also, it is important to get the storm collar level/horizontal. Mine is crooked and it bugs me.
My installers installed all of the pipe from above.
The other thing is that you need to use silicone that is grey. Don't use white silicone on the storm collar or it looks stupid. Also, it is important to get the storm collar level/horizontal. Mine is crooked and it bugs me.
My installers installed all of the pipe from above.
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