Any one tried Bio diesel..just filled up with it

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Ratherbfishin

Member
Sep 2, 2009
161
Southern tier NY
A guy I work with makes it so I filled up my oil tank with it. Got it for 2 bucks a gallon VS the almost 3 bucks fuel oil is going for now. Has anyone burned this stuff or had any issues with it?
 
Oh boy. Its going to depend on two things: The age of your system and the concentration of the biodiesel in the fuel. Biodiesel will scrub the sludge from your tank, so grab some filters.
 
btuser said:
Oh boy. Its going to depend on two things: The age of your system and the concentration of the biodiesel in the fuel. Biodiesel will scrub the sludge from your tank, so grab some filters.

That's about what I've heard. I wonder how often the filters would need to be changed? Dependent on age, I know, but maybe there is a safe bet thing like every 100 gallons...

Matt
 
I would like to try it, but there are no sources nearby. I hardly burn any heating oil, so I would not want it in the heating tank (not sure how well it lasts, I only butn about 30g/year). But I drive a diesel Jetta and would like to burn it there. Would be nice...
 
Yes the tank is in the basement. I'm glad you mentioned the sludge because I bled the line the other night and for some reason I wanted to strain the oil I had in the can to see what if any debris was in it. I did notice a sludge like substance at the bottom of the can and thought WTF is that and did I just screw up my furnace by using this stuff. The guy I work with said he has run it in his furnace for 3 years without issues and he also runs it in his 2008 GMC Sierra. So I am confident in his ability to make the proper "mix". When you say I will need filters, will this sludge also clog nozzles frequently? Why does this stuff loosen sludge from the tank?

Thanks, Steve
 
Vehicles here in the City converted to bio-diesel a couple years back . . . if memory serves me correctly it was penance for some environmental violation . . . mechanics said it works OK, but as mentioned they did say they were going through more filters in the vehicles.
 
You may want to reconsider this quickly unless you really like your serviceman. 100% biodiesel will dissolve every bit of gunk, sludge and water in you oil tank and send it to your filter. The filter will clog up many times until its all out of the system. Unless its a new fuel pump on the burner, the B100 may slowly dissolve the pump seals, then you will start getting crud building up on the burner nozzle. If the B100 is homemade and not tested very well, there can be some glycerine along fro the ride that will eventually settle out and plug up things.

Heres a link to a blog that a former coworker had started, his wife is "saint" to put up with the experiments. The last time I talked to him he went back to straight oil.
http://burnb100.blogspot.com/

If you just have a 90 or 95% blend, I have not heard of any issues, although a friend that used it, does go through more filters.
 
I would burn it in the diesel truck cut with diesel but not in a furnace. You need your furnace to work. The bio has less btu per gallon, gels in the cold, has higher lubricity (why it is good in the truck), has high solvent properties, and has properties that cause some fuel lines and rubber things to dissolve. There are fuel hoses that are special to handle up to certain concentrations of bio. Do you even know if your furnace is compatible? It is not homemade diesel, it is biodiesel.

If it was much cheaper and was very dependable quality and your furnace is compatible and you have a heated location for the tank and you are ready to change filters until the sludge is gone. Then I would think it is a great idea. You'll want to drain off water and use it sooner since the shelf life of bio is supposed to be less.

Not even the 2008 sierra is rated for B100. Your friend just voided the warranty on a very very expensive to repair piece of machinery. I'm pretty sure that no manufacturer has authorized anything more than B20.
 
I have run bio in my truck, and I would have to agree with all the statements above
also everyone I have spoke to about it says the same thing
they all went through lots of filters, not sure how it would work in a home system sludge, dirtwise
probably been around alot longer than most of the trucks and I think fuel oil is probably dirtier than diesel
when I was running it though I did get 2-3 miles more per gallon and smelled like fries
 
ironpony said:
I have run bio in my truck, and I would have to agree with all the statements above
also everyone I have spoke to about it says the same thing
they all went through lots of filters, not sure how it would work in a home system sludge, dirtwise
probably been around alot longer than most of the trucks and I think fuel oil is probably dirtier than diesel
when I was running it though I did get 2-3 miles more per gallon and smelled like fries

Can't help but think of the "Ding . . . fries are done" Christmas song. :) ;)
 
I had the furnace running last night and so far it worked fine..It is a utica oil fired boiler for baseboard hot water and is 5 years old. Like I said the guy I got it from has run it in his furnace for 3 years now...without any issues. I have worked with him 10 plus years and remember when he first got his kit to make the stuff. My trust especially was with him since he puts it into a 50K plus truck. I hope this sludge crap doesn't foul things up too much then it wasn't worth the savings. It is kind of too late to back out now as my tank has 225 gallons of the stuff in there. Not even sure how you would get it back out into 55gal drums if I had too. I guess the better news is oil is a back up to wood.
 
I'll res erect this thread later as to how it is going...so far so good,furnace is kicking on and off as it should. no fire in the wood stove yet as it needs to be 30's at night and no higher than 40 during the day or the doors and windows will be open. Defeats the purpose to me.

From what I have read up on the subject is that Bio is good for furnaces but expect to change a few filters which really is no big deal, I have read up on by burner and it has no rubber seals in it that I can find, The pump is good etc...

I really think this is a one time deal I mean no guarantees he will have 250 gallons of the stuff on hand next year, and being it was an opportunity to save money I had to go for it. Jeez I would had to have to down grade to Keystone or Bush If I don't have to.

I think this stuff is part of the very near future in terms of not using fossil fuel for everything.
 
Biodiesel is AWESOME for oil burners. Because of its extreemely low sulfur content the possible efficiencies are in the low 90%, and you can get a blue flame from it without the CO and NOX problems of fuel oil. The problems are mostly a blessing, and that has to do with its ablillity to NOT be a toxic spill because its biodegradeable, and its detergent values, because it will scrub your tank for you. I've run it in my own $42,000 truck and had no ill-effects, but this is just B2, which is good enough to add lubricity to low sulfur diesel but doesn't effect overall/weather performance. If this is going to be an ongoing thing I'd get a tigerloop w/ one of those spin-on filters and mount it right before your burner. This will keep your nozzles from fouling (I hope).

I'd love to have a dependable grease guy, harder to find than a good firewood guy. One more thing: If there's oil left over after the heating season make sure you put in some additive because it doesn't last for decades like diesel.
 
ratherbfishin said:
I'm glad you mentioned the sludge because I bled the line the other night and for some reason I wanted to strain the oil I had in the can to see what if any debris was in it. I did notice a sludge like substance at the bottom of the can and thought WTF is that and did I just screw up my furnace by using this stuff. Thanks, Steve

That sludge is sitting in the bottom of the line. When you bleed the line after a tune-up you're pulling fuel at a much faster rate than when the pump is forcing fuel through the nozzle. I think a pump will push close to 22gph through the bleeder valve, enough to flush out some gunk.
 
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