Any other Memco users?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Sounds good, I just wanted to make sure. I think that is the direction I will go in. We'll see though. I won't be plumbing it until this summer, and I'm still doing research now - so this isn't something I will just throw together. I want to make sure I do it right the first time and that I am happy with it.
 
joecool85 said:
Also, would I still need that check valve in there or could I take that out?
Don't think you'll need it, but not certain... However it's pretty much of a no-cost thing if you get the right pump and use isolation flanges... Most of the pumps these days are designed to have a flow check optionally installed in the pump outlet, and come with it in the box. It wouldn't be a big problem to put the pump in without it, and see if you had any unwanted flow - if you did, pop the pump out, stick the flow check in, and put it back... No muss, no fuss, might need a couple gaskets...

Gooserider
 
I did more thinking and I think this would be the best solution, what do you guys think?

**edit**
I'm just wondering if I should also have a check valve right under the zone circs (before the hot line of the wood boiler comes in) so that when the wood boiler is pumping it doesn't try to send any up through the zones, but rather it has to go through the oil boiler.
 

Attachments

  • jraymond-boiler-plumbing5.jpg
    jraymond-boiler-plumbing5.jpg
    35.8 KB · Views: 177
The problem with that one is that if your zones are running, you will be mixing your zone return water with the WB supply water, and feeding that medium temp water into the OB - some of which will then get sent back to the WB on the return loop, and some of which will go through the zones and get cooled further, at which point it again cools the supply water coming from the WB, and so on....

With the closely spaced tees that I was suggesting earlier, any water returned from the zones goes back to the WB, unless the zones are returning more water than the WB can supply, in which case you will still be getting rid of all the return volume that the WB could handle, and only the surplus will get sent around again. (And this scenario is prevented by simply making sure the WB pump is big enough)

Oh, and you should not need a second check valve on the zone side - one 'should' be enough to prevent any reverse flow...

Gooserider
 
Status
Not open for further replies.