Any Trick to Lining up the Cuts With Cut, Rotate, Cut?

I've be cutting some big rounds, and since the logs are on the ground, I cut 85% through, then rotate the log and finish the cut.

Usually, everything lines up and the finishing off works fine. Often, however, I end up cutting more than necessary, with thin slices of wood between the original cut and the second one. Sometimes I start the second cut within part of the first. Other times I start the new cut sighting the two ends of the first. But it is never guaranteed to work.

Is there a better way?

You could always finish the cut from bottom up after rolling. Bit more work supporting the saws weight though.
Or kind of scuff a line in the bark from one side of the cut to the other then follow that line.

I roll the cut log over but instead of cutting from the top, I stick the nose of my bar up into the cut and work it through from the bottom up , thus using the previous cut as a guide.. Works perfect.. just have to watch you don't catch the ground or have the saw kick back when you first go in... I always stand to the side of the bar as well.. Practice and it will be second nature ,,I've been doing it that way for over 30 years..

Yep. I find it really easy with a 28" bar. No bending.

Working smart!

I do it like midwestcoast mentioned, works great.

If I've gone your "85-90%" of the way through and can easily see both sides of the cut after rolling I'll hit it top down. However, "bottoms up" works perfect too, just uses a little more effort supporting/lifting the saw, plus introduces a minimal, but present, kickback situation.

Same here.

Pete

On larger logs I always do the bottom up cut. Depending on the tree it most often saves bar pinching and if the log has layed on the ground for any period of time and has gotten dirt stuck in the bark, your chain is throwing the nasty crap out away from the saw rather than pulling it in and around your chain sprocket and oiler.

I though everybody on the West Coast was running 32"+ bars?

I get it close.
It's fire wood
Wood stove won't complain & after it's split, it'll be hard to find the mis-aligned cuts

x2 on BogyDave's comment. I do whatever is safest for me and don't worry too much about perfection with fire wood. Sometimes up - sometimes down

I finish bottom up all the time. To be safe I insert the bar into the cut before I start the chain.

I use a log jack when practical.

I usually do the bottom up cut as well, and as muncybob said I put the bar into the kerf BEFORE throttling the saw....that keeps the kickback risk to the a minimum ...

I insert as much of the bar as necessary in the established kerf to get the proper bar orientation for the finishing cut. Works for me.

Wedge it and cut from both sides. If your not lining up its either a knot or crouch in the(Something nasty). Chain sharpening too.

Drop the tree on cuts you've already made. Then no need to roll.
or
LogJack
or
Upcut from where you stopped. Like other said, more effort and care needs to be taken (as always)
or
Double sided ax CHOP!! hahahaha

Same thing here.

Good point, but, I don't think he is worried about what it ends up looing like. The problem is more about having to cut the log almost twice sometimes when you miss the first cut and end up going thru half the round agian before it breaks apart.... that drives me nuts when that happends. My old chain (I just changed my chain recently) was screwed up, and pulling to one side really bad, so it was making it impossible to line up the next cut after flipping over the round. So much easier after changing the chain.

Good tips, thanks.

With crap in the bark. I ax the bark, at the cut marks, all around off,, then score the cut both sides, then go down from top both sides the whole length of the log, then roll and will see the mating cut ends, works good. Tim

I did this today it worked perfectly. No extra cutting at all. Thanks.