Any way to stop the draft when not in use?

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terpsucka

Member
Dec 4, 2010
42
Potomac, Maryland
I installed a late model Clydesdale this fall that I really only use on weekends and other days off. The rest of the time it's not in use. I notice on days with certain weather the draft is actually down, and on those days I can feel cold air coming out of the stove even with the air control "fully closed". I have read that the air control never really closes all the way, so it's not a surprise that air should be coming out. A few times I've noticed that a pool of cold air has collected in the room with the fireplace, and that never used to happen prior to installing the insert. Presumably when the draft is up, which is most of the time, it's taking warm air out of the house that is not as noticeable but is equally costly. Any advice on what can I do about this?

Thanks as always!
 
I don't know if you can put one on a wood stove, but they make top cap dampers for chimney's.
 
RedGuy said:
I don't know if you can put one on a wood stove, but they make top cap dampers for chimney's.

This is a question that I've been resisting asking.

I'm interested in one too, but the ones I've seen are for fireplaces, and the control cable/chain hangs down the center of the flue--not ideal for wood stoves. :) Anyone know of one that works well with wood stoves--goes on the top of a class A pipe, and has the control line run outside the flue?
 
Not sure if you can do this with your Clyde, but stuffing some insulation in the flue (if you can reach it) works great and many folks do that in the summer months. However, if you do that, do make some sort of a reminder that before the next fire is lit the insulation has to be removed! It is sort of like what we did in the motor home with the tv antenna. We hung a reminder on the steering wheel so we didn't take off with the antenna up. It worked.
 
I wouldnt think any draft going on when not in use would make much difference. not sure what your concerned about. heat escaping? very minumal
 
Yet another reason why I think OAKs should be installed.
 
Total newbie question here... what is an OAK?
 
Semipro said:
Yet another reason why I think OAKs should be installed.

You read my mind, Semipro!

I was pondering this, and thinking that an OAK with a shutoff valve is probably the best solution, because a "top of the pipe" valve isn't available.

To answer Hanko's q, the issue--whether one cares about it or not--is that EPA stoves cannot be dampered down completely, and always have some air flow to pass EPA testing. This creates energy loss when the stove is out, through lost warm air--and cool stove if the chimney backdrafts when cold.

An OAK with a positive shutoff therefore provides a number of benefits--besides preventing the loss of heat and warm interior air when the stove is running, it can be shut off to prevent air/heat loss when the stove is off, and provide an additional option for controlling a runaway stove or chimney fire.
 
Outside air kit: furnishes air directly to the stove, without mixing with room air.
 
Terpsucka:

I have a 2010 model Clydesdale
Shortly after the install, the stove room was freezing (when not in use)
There was air out of stove, around the stove etc.
Dealer talked/looked at me like I was nuts ("We've never seen or had this happen to us or with anyone else before yada yada"
I ended up calling Hearthstone. Then tech guy said let me guess: ranch house with exterior chimney?
Sure enough, they suggest to install block off plate and insulate the liner.

Had to have dealer come back out (and yeah we had to pay again..which I didn't entirely agree with-cause this should of been done the first time) Once again they had never heard or done a block off plate.....I educated some of them to come hang @ hearth.com Here in NW Ohio, there are not a whole lot of "hardcore" anything trades...Nobody seems to really specialize or take pride in what they do....A lot of just get it done and run before they notice type attitudes among many professions. If you try to suggest or ask a question no matter where you are you will be told....we dont have it, they don't make it, you can't do that, it won't work, etc.

So long story short, we get the block off plate and liner done, and wow! no more cold air. It must of been "in my head" the whole time....
In the end I'm not sure if it was the block off plate, the insulation or resealing the ash clean out door inside the firebox when they pulled it (it was open a tad -EVEN THOUGH installer literally swore to me that he ALWAYS seals it upon an install)

So now all seems to be fine, only thing is now I have one hell of a draft and think I need to get a draft reading and possibly some kind of damper kit for the cap? (manual even says you may need one if you have excessive draft) I was under the impression that when it is dampened down it should be like a sleepy campfire type burn...Well, I hope this helps ya.
 
Thanks for all the info, everyone. Without knowing the terminology OAK, I had been thinking that bringing in air directly from outside rather than from in the house would have numerous advantages, including resolving this problem, unfortunately it doesn't look like an OAK is available for the Clydesdale, and I can't think of any safe way to do it myself. If anyone has any suggestions along these lines, please let me know!

Ohio-- I also had the installer come back and install a block off plate (seemed obvious to me, not sure why it wasn't done originally) but did not have the liner insulated. I'm thinking that must be my next step. The block off plate helped a great deal, but the cold air coming in is still significant...definitely not in my head. With the stove installed prior to putting in the block off plate, that room was unlivable when the stove was not running. It's now livable, but still not optimal. I had the same experience with my dealer as you... get the sale done and get out of dodge. Luckily my installer was an outside job by a guy who takes some pride in his work, so he didn't charge me to come back or do the plate install. At this point, winter's half over so I think I will just enjoy the unit for now, and worry about this come summer. I plan to redo my surround then, anyway.
 
Another temporary solution. I've got the same problem with my insert during summer month and my dealer hints me to lite a candle (tealight) in the stove to create an up draft. It works well in my case and a single tealight candle will last from 4 ~ 8 hours depend on the quality. Very cheap also.

Cheers......Som
 
(Curious) George said:
Semipro said:
Yet another reason why I think OAKs should be installed.
An OAK with a positive shutoff therefore provides a number of benefits.....

Anyone know where an OAK shut-off valve is available? I could sure use one...!
 
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