Just wondering if I am going to gain more heat if I have the fan on low the whole time rather than wait for it to heat up. I plan on installing a dimmer switch in wall to control fan speed.
Anyone bypass Auto fan switch
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LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
I don't know if it would be more efficient or not but I want total control of the fan so I don't use a low cutoff switch. I also have a speed control.
I think if you start to cool the stove before it's up to ideal temp, you could lose efficiency rather than gain any.
I think if you start to cool the stove before it's up to ideal temp, you could lose efficiency rather than gain any.
chipster314 said:
The stove manufacturers have already thought of this.
Leave the switch alone. There's a reason there's an auto cut out at low temps.
If you want to put a dimmer in so that you can control fan speed with the auto switch in place, I don't see a problem with that, other than the issues presented by using the fan motor at less than designed current.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
chipster314 said:
Dimmer switches are not made to control a motor... Use a motor speed control instead if the motor is capable of speed control..
Ray
burntime
New Member
I have on or auto, sometimes when I am not going to stoke the fire I put it to "on" to get more heat.
burntime
New Member
But if the auto shuts it off on an insert it is not getting the heat to the room. Thats why I turn it to manual on.
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
Some stoves don't put the sensor in a very good location and it can take a very long time before the fan will turn on. I even read here of some people having the fan cycle on and off wile the fire is burning. Some stoves have a manual bypass and others don't. If you want to bypass the sensor, it's your prerogative but the only reason not to is if you often let the fire die out in which case you would be taking heat from the room and sending it up the chimney.
This post is intereseting. I just installed an Osburn 1800 insert a few days ago and have been observing the blower operation. It takes a long time for the fan to come on, then it runs for some time depending on how hot the stove is. I have not completed the hearth, so the bottom front "grill" where the blower unit and thermo disc is located was about one inch above the stone, in other words there was a one inch gap below the blower unit. When I first fired the stove for a good burn, the fan blower seemed to take forever to turn on. I think that gap below the blower was allowing cool air to circulate around and kept the thermo disc from turning on the blower. I was freaked out thinking I over heated the stove. Then I thought "what if I had the fan switch turned off?" It is a choice.
I would think that these stoves are made to run up to full temps without the blower being turned on. It is not required to be turned on as a safety cool down device, right?
I would think that these stoves are made to run up to full temps without the blower being turned on. It is not required to be turned on as a safety cool down device, right?
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
I'm not familiar with the Osburn. My RSF can be operated without fan as it is an option. The stove has a bimetallic control on the combustion air so it regulates itself down. The bimetallic control is influenced three ways; by the temp of the outside air, by the heat of the fire, and by the cooling effect of the fan.
burntime
New Member
My opinion only but I think every situation is different. If you had a tall chimney and left the air wide open I bet you could overfire it with out the blower on. I would run the blower. In your instance brink, make sure the snap disc is making contact with the stove. It is very common for them to be a little ways away and taking a long time to kick in. If it touchs like mine it kicks in at something like 125 or 150 degrees I think.
gpcollen1
Minister of Fire
LLigetfa said:
I think it is more like, some folks do not install the snap disk properly - as in up against the specified location. I know that it was a pain to get mine situated in my Olympic. If it is in the path of airflow or not up against the stove/metal it should be then it will not operate as intended. That said, I do not have experience with all designs and stoves.
This is like a car radiator. The thermostat doesn't open until the engine is warm.
Bypassing the auto switch is going to chill fires that are not up to temp. More creosote, less total efficiency. Just learn how to build the right fire. Inserts have limitations that freestanders don't. In our PE summit insert it would take 30-60 minutes for the fan to kick in from a cold start. It's just the way it is. Don't juryrig it, learn to use it as it was designed to be used.
Bypassing the auto switch is going to chill fires that are not up to temp. More creosote, less total efficiency. Just learn how to build the right fire. Inserts have limitations that freestanders don't. In our PE summit insert it would take 30-60 minutes for the fan to kick in from a cold start. It's just the way it is. Don't juryrig it, learn to use it as it was designed to be used.
burntime
New Member
I disagree Frank, mine kicks on within 20 minutes, I put it to on during the cool down period mostly. Just hot coals cooling and can get another hour or two of heat. As far a creosote buildup...I have always done this and never had a problem on both a non-epa and new epa stove I have used now for 3 years.
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