Anyone have a drive cycle on how to drive the car after fixing one of the emission systems to get in

[Don2222]

Hello

My Check Engine Light (CEL) was on in the 1999 Subaru Legacy 4cyl Eng for sometime. I finally dumped the code P0440 and fixed a vacuum leak on top of the engine to fix the EVAP System problem! I thought that was the hard part. LOL

I went to get a sticker 2 times and both times it failed and the printout said "Not Ready" for the emission system monitors!

I now know that my Toyota has 5 emission system monitors such as EVAP System, EGR System, Catalytic Converter... ETC.
Toyota Service Bulletin "TSB - EG003-02 Readiness Monitor Drive Patterns" contains a info for all Toyotas from 1996 - 2002.
There are charts for each model and engine that show which of the 11 different monitors for emissions that your car has.
My 1999 Toyota Solara has 5 of 11 and on the rest of the pages it describes how to drive the car to reset each monitor. When they are all reset then the computer will be "Ready" and emissions can be tested and pass so an inspection sticker can be issued!

Therefore, When each of the 5 monitors in the cars computer have their Drive patterns combined into a Drive Cycle then a person can perform the drive cycle and reset all the monitors!! It is just this simple !! LOL

So my question is?
What is the drive cycle for a 1999 Subaru Legacy 4 cyl 2.2L?

Or
Does anyone have this Subaru TSB - Technical Service Bulletin??

AUGUST 2004 Emissions - OBD Readiness Test Procedure

I think it has the Drive Patterns for the Computer Monitors in there for a few model years.

 

[fossil]

I think it might be time to (gasp!) talk with the service folks at your Subaru dealership, or an indy that you know and trust. Rick

 

[REM505]

did you try disconnecting the battery for a while to reset?

 

[Don2222]

I think it might be time to (gasp!) talk with the service folks at your Subaru dealership, or an indy that you know and trust. Rick

Hello Jack Wagon - Yes I did disconnect the Battery to reset all the computer monitors which did turn off the Check Engine Light and put the computer in the "Not Ready" state.

Hello fossil

Good Idea, so I found this out from Subaru.

A woman in the service department at Koeppel Subaru in Queens said I could drive until I’m blue in the face and the monitors will still read incomplete unless I complete the following drive pattern: accelerate to 50 MPH, drive for at least 3 minutes without braking, decelerate to 30 MPH, then accelerate again to 50 MPH, and drive for at least 3 minutes again without braking. If I end up having to brake, then I have to start all over again. I did ask her whether I should then check the OBD before keying off, and she said, it didn’t matter, once the monitors are ready they will stay ready—so I could drive the pattern at night when traffic is lighter and then just bring it to my mechanic the next day.

My mechanic had a drive cycle to drive 25 miles and half on the highway and half in the city.
That worked for my Toyota but not for my Subaru so I am adding what the woman in Queens said to this cycle and since the Evap system monitor resets better when the gas tank is between 1/2 and 3/4 full I am adding this in also.

So today I tried the following drive cycle for the 1999 Subaru Legacy 4cyl

With the gas tank between 1/2 and 3/4 full to change the 5 Monitors for emissions in the car's computer from "Not Ready" to "Ready"

Drive the car 25 miles half highway and half city (stop & go) and while on the highway include a minimum speed of 55 mph for a min of 3 mins and down to 30 MPH without breaking and back up to 55 MPH for 3 - 5 mins to change the ready flag to “Readyâ€

Unfortunately I do not have the this Readiness Monitor tool so I will know if the above works when I see my mechanic this week.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JJE100XG2TMT6X7J6X2

Actually this may be a better tool for the price since it scans the error codes also!
http://www.amazon.com/Ready-Not-Test-Readiness-Monitor/dp/B000T3VDD6

Thanks again for your suggestion!

 

[pastera]

Harbour Freight sells a code scanner for about $40 that will tell you if all systems are go

Aaron

 

[Don2222]

Harbour Freight sells a code scanner for about $40 that will tell you if all systems are go

Aaron

Hello Aaron

You are right, cheaper ones can be found but I also need the Readiness Monitor. Does yours have that?


It looks like the Autel from http://www.amazon.com has BOTH!!

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-OBD-II-Scan/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=lh_ni_t_

Review
Inexpensive & gets the job done, April 21, 2009
By
mrphil76 "Phil" (Queens NY) - See all my reviews
This review is from: Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN OBD-II Scan Tool (Automotive)
I purchased this because my car failed an inspection due to a DTC for the catalytic converter. Rather than dropping the +$200 the mechanic wanted, I bought this and was able to reset the codes. Then I drove around until the reader said that all the eleven OBD II Readiness Monitors (or I/M Monitors) defined by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) were ready. Viola - it passed inspection.

The reader does have all the bells and whistle such as telling the description of the DTC codes, but it does have the generic ones in the back of the manual & there is software on the CD which I didn't need but looks like it includes a list of manufactures DTC's in addition the generic.

The support site is: http://www.auteltech.com/supports.htm & there is download there for the software as well.

 

[Highbeam]

Absolutely ridiculous. This sequence of speeds you must go through to be ready.

 

[Don2222]

Absolutely ridiculous. This sequence of speeds you must go through to be ready.

Hello Highbeam

I quite agree that this is not only ridiculous but also very dangerous!!

Here is the FEDERAL generic drive cycle that works for all cars
see http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1999-subaru-legacy-evap-monitor-reset

After the last day of inspection when your emissions is finally fixed, Try to do this Safely and Legally without
getting into an accident or stopped for having an expired inspection sticker!
This is why we should all urge our state reps to vote to KILL the statewide Emissions Testing for all vehicles

It is Unsafe and Forces you to drive at illegal speeds!

It’s not a matter of miles. It will reset when the computer has been through every scenario that it’s programmed for.

READINESS CODE RESETTING PROCEDURE (GENERIC DRIVE CYCLE)

READINESS MONITORS AND DRIVE CYCLES
“Readiness Monitors†are indicators that demonstrate whether or not emission system components are being monitored (checked) by the OBD-II system. If a monitor is set to “Ready†the monitor is checking its assigned component and, if no DTC’s are present, the vehicle should pass an emissions test.

NOTE: If the appropriate number of Readiness Monitors (codes) are not flagged as “Readyâ€, in most cases, the vehicle can not pass an emissions test. See State and Federal Laws.

The status of all readiness monitors is reset to “Not Ready†:

* Each time DTC’s are cleared
* The battery is disconnected
* The ECM is disconnected

The status of all readiness monitors is reset to “Ready†:
After DTC’s are cleared and the appropriate drive cycle(s) is successfully completed

EPA Federal Test Procedure

Manufactures are required to validate monitors during the first 23 minutes (1372 seconds) of the Federal Test Procedure Drive Cycle.

EPA Urban Dynamometer Driving Schedule

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a “Ready†status. However, there are “two trip†monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a “Ready†status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times.

Verify the status of the readiness monitors with the appropriate function of your scan tool.

NOTE: Certain vehicles have known OBD-II Readiness issues. Please be sure to review TSB’s for special circumstances and or exceptions to readiness monitor resetting procedures.

BEFORE BEGINNING THE DRIVE CYCLE
Check the status of the Readiness Monitors, check for DTC’s, correct faults, clear DTC’s before beginning the Drive Cycle.

BEGIN DRIVE CYCLE
The vehicle should be driven approximately 7.5 miles within a period of approx. 23 minutes (1372 seconds) from a cold start. However, due to manufacture variations, it is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a “Ready†status. Operate the throttle smoothly to obtain best results. Do not shut the engine off during the drive cycle.

CAUTION: Obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner!

NOTE: Extreme driving conditioning such as very high/low temperatures, rough roads and high altitudes may prevent some monitors from attaining a “Ready†status.

Step 1: (Engine Cold) Start engine, idle 20 seconds. Accelerate gradually and drive at 20-25 mph for 1 minute, varying speed.

Step 2: Accelerate gradually to 32 mph within 35 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 40 seconds.

Step 3: Accelerate at part throttle to 25 mph in 10 seconds. Cruise at 17-25 mph for 15 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 57 mph in 45 seconds. Cruise at 50-56 mph for 1 minute. Decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 40 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.

Step 4: Accelerate at part throttle to 36 mph and maintain for 10 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.

Step 5: Accelerate to 30 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 20 seconds.

Step 6: Accelerate to 36 mph in 20 seconds. Drive at 35 mph for 20 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 15 seconds. Idle 5 seconds.

Step 7: Accelerate gradually to 26 mph and decelerate to 0 within 40 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.

Step 8: Accelerate to 27 mph in 40 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 25 seconds.

Step 9: Accelerate to 26 mph in 15 seconds, maintain speed for 10 seconds, decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle 15 seconds.

Step 10: Accelerate to 23 mph in 20 seconds, decelerate to 0.5 mph in 10 seconds (no complete stop). Accelerate to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 35 seconds.

Step 11: Accelerate gradually to 34 mph in 45 seconds. Vary speed between 34 and 19 mph for 2 minutes. Decelerate from 25 to 0 mph in 25 seconds. Idle for 5 seconds.

Step 12: Accelerate to 29 mph in 15 seconds, decelerate gradually to 0 mph in 45 seconds. Idle for 30 seconds.

Step 13: Accelerate gradually to 28 mph and back to 0 mph (momentary stop 1 second) within 50 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 27 mph and back to 0 mph within 55 seconds. Idle for 15 seconds.

 

[Don2222]

Reset Continued

Step 14: Accelerate to 24 mph and back to 0 mph within 18 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds. Accelerate gradually to 22 mph and back to 0 mph within 50 seconds. Idle for 8 seconds.

Step 15: Accelerate gradually to 30 mph within 50 seconds. Decelerate to 0 mph in 10 seconds. Idle for 25 seconds.

Step 16: Accelerate to 23 mph and back to 0 mph within 30 seconds. Idle for 10 seconds.

Step 17: Repeat steps 1 - 16 once again. Recheck the status of the “Readiness Monitorsâ€.

NOTE: Remember, clearing DTC’s or interrupting power to the ECM after the readiness monitors have been reset to “Ready†will require that the Drive Cycle be repeated.

Completing the Drive Cycle successfully one (1) time should reset most drive cycle monitors to a “Ready†status. However, there are “two trip†monitors, which require that the drive cycle be successfully completed two (2) times, to achieve a “Ready†status. Furthermore, systems which use averaging, may require the drive cycle to be completed more than 2 times. It is necessary to perform only as much of the Drive Cycle as is necessary to reset the required monitors to a “Ready†status.

END DRIVE CYCLE

 

[Highbeam]

I've never had to have any of my vehicles tested for emissions. Some parts of the state require it but not the last two where I've lived thank goodness.

 

[moosetrek]

So how much gas do you burn to pass emissions? Somethin' don't seem right with that. Sort of like cleaner diesels that get 60% of the MPG as older ones... Sometimes it seems we overthink these things- good luck though. Especially explaining to the cop pulling you over that you can't stop or you'll have to start again. Sounds like OCD for cars...

 

[Don2222]

Hello

After 1 phone call and 2 emails to Subaru of America I received the following in the Email



APPLICABILITY: All 1997MY & Newer Subaru Vehicles
SUBJECT: On-Board Diagnostic System I/M Check During State Emission Test

NUMBER: 11-72-04
DATE: 08/04/04

This bulletin provides advisory information.

About 30 states have implemented regulations for inspecting the vehicle's On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) system as part of their state emissions inspection program. EPA guidance permits up to two unset OBD system monitors as '"Not Ready" and the OBD system testing will be considered valid for 1996-2000 model vehicles. No more than one unset readiness code monitor is allowed for 2001 and newer model vehicles. A state emission inspection may not pass a vehicle if the number of OBD system readiness monitors "Not Ready" or "Incomplete" is greater than stated above. Under this condition, the vehicle operator should be instructed to drive his/her vehicle for a few days to set the monitors before returning for an emission test re-inspection.

Summarized below is the recommended readiness code set procedure for 1997 and newer model Subaru vehicles. (In accordance with EPA guidance, 1996 model Subaru vehicles reset to "not ready" at key off, and they should never be rejected or fai led based solely on readiness status. See bulletin 11- 49-97R for further 1996 model details.)

I) Ensure the fuel level in the fuel tank is between 1/2 and 3/4 level. The recommended fuel level for this procedure is 1/2 fuel tank level.

3) Start the engine from cold condition and drive the vehicle for more than 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph in order to ensure proper warm-up of the engine. Avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking, and sudden lane change during the warm up.

2) The vehicle should be driven at a steady-state speed of 55 mph with minimal throttle angle change for more than 3 minutes.
4} Verify the condition of readiness codes using a generic scan tool (GST).

Owners of rejected or failing vehicles may be instructed by the State I/M Program to contact their Subaru Dealer (and/or independent service provider) for service.

Please consult 2003 and later model Subaru Technical Service Manuals, or electronically by the Subaru Technical Information System (STIS) web site at www.subaru.com. for more detailed drive cycle information.


Since I already included this in my drive cycle the other day, I will take it to my mechanic in the morning and hopefully it will pass!!

 

[Don2222]

Hello

So from the info in the last post from Subaru of America.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following may vary from state to state but the general rule is as follows!
OBDII compliant cars from 1996 to 2000 can only have 1 Monitor in the Computer (ECU) set to "Not Ready" and pass emissions testing.

OBDII Compliant cars from 2001 and up can have 2 Monitors in the Computer (ECU) set to "Not Ready" and pass emissions testing.


This means my 1999 Subaru Legacy can have 2 "Not Ready" monitors and still pass emissions!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The 1st emissions Re-Test I had 4 Monitors "Not Ready"

The 2nd Re-Test I had 3 Monitors "Not Ready"

So wish me luck in the morning, I tried the modified drive cycle so hopefully it will pass!


See pic of 2nd ReTest with 3 Monitors "Not Ready" below!

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Well here is a more comprehensive Drive Cycle (Maybe for OBD II cars) that I can try if I do not get the sticker in the morning!!

From http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/2786973-vettes-not-ready-to-be-tested.html

Try this : Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

This is what it takes to get ready for emissions test. Just a long drive won't do it.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Well I was successful today and I got the emissions passed and an inspection sticker!!

So by doing what the Subaru Dealer and Bulletin stated, I then drove the car as follows and then got the sticker!!

With the gas tank between 1/2 and 3/4 full.
Drive the car 25 miles half highway and half city (stop & go) and while on the highway include a
minimum speed of 55 mph for a min of 3-5 mins and then coast 30 MPH for a min without
breaking and then back up to 55 MPH for 3 - 5 mins.

I believe that reset the EGR monitor but I do not have a scanner to tell. However the EVAP system was still "Not Ready" so by having only one monitor "not ready" I got the sticker!

So when they tell you to drive the car 250 or 500 miles, insist on getting the drive patterns and
drive cycle from the dealer if you need the sticker in a hurry!!

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Well one thing I learned is that the Evap system's monitor that causes the Error Code 440 is the last monitor to be "Ready" after the codes are cleared. So if the car is driven 25 miles to exercise the other monitors then a sticker can be obtained legally because only one monitor is not ready. That gives time to drive the car more and when the check engine light also called the MIF (Malfunction Indicator Light) comes on again with Error Code 400 you can fix it when you have time

 

[BrotherBart]

As I have followed this thread I keep thinking about the witch casting a spell in Macbeth.

"Eye of newt, and toe of frog,
Wool of bat, and tongue of dog,
Adder's fork, and blind-worm's sting,
Lizard's leg, and howlet's wing,--
For a charm of powerful trouble,
Like a hell-broth boil and bubble."

 

[colebrookman]

Could you do all this in your driveway if you first noted your rpms while driving on the road. 55=/rpms 25=rpms. Seems the engine would care less and it would be much safer. Wouldn't the shop just use rollers?
Ed

 

[Don2222]

Could you do all this in your driveway if you first noted your rpms while driving on the road. 55=/rpms 25=rpms. Seems the engine would care less and it would be much safer. Wouldn't the shop just use rollers?
Ed

Good question colebrookman.

Since it is a front wheel drive, I would have to put the front end on Jack Stands. Then watch the Tac and the Odometer. Not sure if that would exercise all the monitors though. However with that cheap code scanner connected to read the status of the monitors, then you could try it and watch the scanner to see if it works!!

So if you have time, then give it a try and please let us know...

Thanks

 

[colebrookman]

No that would be to dangerous. I'm thinking neutral may work but wonder if any of our experts would know. I just finished changing the belt on my 06 Forester, 103 thou miles, along with the water pump and assorted other items. Scary when you go to start it; interference engine could go boom but all went according to the Sub. forum. Haven't had your problem yet although I disconnected the battery. Good luck and please be safe.
Ed

 

[mayhem]

Had a similar issue in the wife's 2002 Audi A4. The drive cycle consisted of just getting in and driving the car for about a tank of gas after I corrected the issue. No special instructions or drive patterns from Audi, just have to use the car normally for maybe a week (tank of gas for us) and so long as the problem has been corrected, the system goes ready.

 

[Don2222]

Had a similar issue in the wife's 2002 Audi A4. The drive cycle consisted of just getting in and driving the car for about a tank of gas after I corrected the issue. No special instructions or drive patterns from Audi, just have to use the car normally for maybe a week (tank of gas for us) and so long as the problem has been corrected, the system goes ready.

Hello mayhem
What was your problem and how did you fix it?