Anyone have an OAK on a princess?

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jtb51b

Feeling the Heat
Dec 24, 2007
361
Birmingham AL
I am still trying to figure out what went wrong with my princess, I am wondering if an OAK would help. There is a hot water heater and gas furnace (still doesn't run so much) in the basement with this stove. I DID fix a hole in the wall a long while back, it was taped over with metal tape and I filled it with great stuff.. Don't really think it was at the same time but just trying to get somewhere here.. Anyhow, anyone have one? What did it cost and do you have any way to take a pic of how it attaches for figuring?

Thanks,
Jason
 
When I bought mine for the chinook, I think it was $119
I haven't installed it yet, going to burn for a while to see how it is. My house was just rebuilt and is (should be) incredibly tight. It comes with a flex pipe maybe a few feet long. If your stove is probably within 3-4' of a wall I bet you could reach it and send it outside. the parts actually look pretty basic... almost like something you can buy at home depot. ill grab a pic tomorrow
 
If you have a negative pressure issue, fix it first before considering an OAK. Adding an OAK removes only the BK as a source of the problem. If there are other sources (and I'm sure there are) the OAK can actually make things worse.

Lower the neutral pressure plane (NPP) first by sealing up where the warm air is exfiltrating. Then provide general makeup air to the house to lower the NPP further. If a deidicated OAK can be coupled to the BK, do that last.
 
I had to have one for my stove because the house is sealed WAY too tight to try and pull air from in the house. Cost was around $50 from the stove place that did the install.
 
The ONLY way I will install a woodstove in a basement is with an OAK, period! They tend to have pressure issues even without the furnace running.

I installed one Princess in a basement this summer with an OAK. It works fine. Use BK's kit and add a couple pieces of 3" galvanized pipe (or an elbow) to neaten things up a bit.
 
I really dont think I have a Neg. pressure issue. I am just re-tracing my steps to see if there is anything I could have done to cause the trouble. There is an outside wooden door 12 feet away that has a 1/2" gap at the bottom of it, my garage door on the other end has a bout the same gap at the top. I can feel cold air coming in these holes as I figure I should be. I have NEVER had a reverse draft with this stove, as long as I open the bypass lever and wait just a couple seconds I get ZERO smoke spillage. I just figured at least I can use the OAK to lessen how much cold air is pulled into the living area. I have been talking with Chris (BKVP) and we have discovered the problem (hopefully)-- it seems my door brackets are welded on incorrectly and I am not getting a good door seal. I have replaced the gasket but it does not seem to be helping much. They are going to custom make a door for this stove body to correct that issue. I am very hopeful that this will remedy the problem once and for all. With that being said, adding the OAK and changing over to Double wall interior pipe can only make things better in the long run and these are things I am willing to spend the money to make "right".. Thanks for all the help an advice..


Jason
 
north of 60 said:
An OAK will also help with maintaining humidity in the cold dry bowels of winter, Especially if you have to humidify.

I do have some issues with that. Other than static shock it doesn't really bother me much but one of these cats has sinus problems.. Worth looking into.. Man I wish someone close to here was a BK dealer thats really the only BAD thing about owning this stove!

Jason
 
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