Anyone have experience with a longburner insert?

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MrsSouthy

New Member
Dec 27, 2013
39
Ohio
I accidentally posted this in the wrong forum earlier...here's my question.... Still trying to find a stove and have come across a longburner insert. Can't find much info on them. Searched the stove ratings and can't find anyone who has owned one. Anybody with any experience? The man selling it says its a great stove but I'd like some other input. This is the link to the listing so that you can see pics and description.

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/fod/4251357161.html

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
If it is pre-epa I would probably pass,but that might just be me.
Secondary combustion is really a great thing..in more ways then one. I don't know if this stove has that but doubt it.
If you just want a fire now and then it probably would be fine.
I prefer a glass window also. Maybe not a deal breaker for you.
 
Ad appears to be representing they are a stove shop, but then they say, "PUSH IT IN THE FIREPLACE OPENING and FIRE IT UP" which is not what a professional would say if they wish to keep their licenses. Also, even Google turns up no reference to this brand except for CL ads from this same guy... I'll let the people here who know more than me chime in from there.

EDIT: For $599 you can scare up a used EPA stove or even a new one (if you're lucky). IMHO, I'd pass on this one.
 
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OK, thanks for the responses... here's my dilemma.... I can't find an insert that is big enough to heat our old (early 1900s) drafty 1700 square foot house that will fit in the fireplace opening. The opening is 38 1/2 wide, 29 1/2 tall and 14 1/2 deep. The depth is what keeps causing us problems. Inserts that are big enough are too deep but this one wasn't which is what brought us to it. Anybody have any suggestions?? I'm so tired of super high gas and electric bills only to continue to freeze to death! I know there's the possibility of taking bricks out of the fireplace to make it deeper but honestly I'm scared to open that can of worms in a house this old. Never know what kind of problems that might cause and we can't afford a big repair job right now. Help please!
 
Ad appears to be representing they are a stove shop, but then they say, "PUSH IT IN THE FIREPLACE OPENING and FIRE IT UP" which is not what a professional would say if they wish to keep their licenses

Very true! But I'm thinking he's just a restorer. I don't figure he's any kind of professional. One of the reasons I don't want to just take his word for it. We are doing a pre insulated chimney liner no matter what stove we get.
 
How big is the hearth in front of the fireplace?
 
With that flue damper on top of it you wouldn't be able to install a liner on that old dog.
 
OK, thanks for the responses... here's my dilemma.... I can't find an insert that is big enough to heat our old (early 1900s) drafty 1700 square foot house that will fit in the fireplace opening. The opening is 38 1/2 wide, 29 1/2 tall and 14 1/2 deep. The depth is what keeps causing us problems. Inserts that are big enough are too deep but this one wasn't which is what brought us to it. Anybody have any suggestions?? I'm so tired of super high gas and electric bills only to continue to freeze to death! I know there's the possibility of taking bricks out of the fireplace to make it deeper but honestly I'm scared to open that can of worms in a house this old. Never know what kind of problems that might cause and we can't afford a big repair job right now. Help please!

Within the next few hours, assuming you answer the measurement question(s), you're about to get firehosed with really good information, by people that know way more than me. I'll hit a couple of high spots to start:

1) Nothing says that you MUST have an insert that's exactly the same size as your firebox. Even if an insert is the right tool, matching the depth is really the only sticking point.2) The option of using a freestanding stove set back into the existing opening should be on the table... more options, more control, more heat.
3) You are correct that modifying the masonry fireplace is a potentially bad idea. If you must spend money, spend it fixing the "drafty" problems first.

Information you'll need:
- is there an existing stove or insert? If so, brand and model? What's wrong with it, if anything?
- is your chimney lined? If so, what size and material?
- is your chimney in good repair? When was it last inspected by a licensed sweep? When and how was it last cleaned?
- do you have a supply of wood put back to burn? (This may seem premature... trust me, it isn't.) If so, what type, and how long has it been stacked to dry?

That should get you started...
 
Your first post was in the correct forum for that stove,.
 
Pass
 
As others have said, I would pass on that.

I was in the same situation as you at one point. To save cash, I bought a pre EPA stove and connected it to a liner. The heat wasn't great, and a went through a ton of firewood.

Then, I got wise, found an EPA certified quad 4100i on craigslist for 1000 bucks. Bought it, and haven't looked back.

Warmer, less wood use, and a cleaner chimney
 
So that pretty much makes this one out of the question, right?? I mean I'm under the impression that a liner is a necessity, right???

Some have gotten away without one, but some get away without seat belts too.

Definitely on the table. We just haven't found one with the rear flue and right fit. But yes, I've been looking at both.

Rear flue may not be necessary.
The opening is 38 1/2 wide, 29 1/2 tall and 14 1/2 deep.

By my math, could fit an NC30... and that would pump out plenty of heat for not a lot of cash.
 
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Hogz, am I right on the rear-flue-not-needed idea?
 
I don't know where you are in Ohio, but I know it's difficult to get a decent stove or insert on craigslist. Most I see are ancient, rusted out, non EPA garbage. The folks here will guide you in the right direction.

For the time being while looking for an insert or stove, if you have attic access I would investigate and do some airsealing to help lower some of the energy usage. A few dollars for some caulking and foam can go quite a ways in savings, especially if there's large gaps up above. Every crack and crevice you seal will help out.
 
Rear flue may not be necessary

How would that work? Totally open to new ideas! Maybe you all can/have thought of something we haven't been able to come up with.


By my math, could fit an NC30... and that would pump out plenty of heat for not a lot of cash.

I love the look of that stove and have looked at it but we have 29 1/2 and where I looked at it on home depot it said assembled height was 29.75. I just don't see how to make it work. Do they have an insert model I'm not seeing? Not only that but unless we want to start dismantling bricks we need to have room in that 29.5 inches for the stove and the connection to the flex pipe. The flex pipe has to come down into the fireplace opening because the opening from the fireplace up into the chimney is 5.75 inches. We had a certified chimney sweep come and check out the chimney and everything and he said we could get away with that little bit of difference without having to take bricks out.
 
What is your budget?

I am in college and we are working with one income right now so our budget is modest to say the least. We need to spend as little as possible. In 3 yrs or so when I graduate and am working full time it won't be an issue. But for now it is.


I don't know where you are in Ohio, but I know it's difficult to get a decent stove or insert on craigslist. Most I see are ancient, rusted out, non EPA garbage.

Yep. We are in southern Ohio, by the river, but I'm seeing the same thing. Every time we find one that looks like it might be worth something its already sold. :/ Its getting frustrating.
 
home depot it said assembled height was 29.75.

I would think trimming 1/4" off the legs could be done. A good metal shop could do that. Stoveguy2ESW is your man here to answer that question about Englander's work.

Every time we find one that looks like it might be worth something its already sold. :/ Its getting frustrating.

Took me 6 months to find mine, and even then it was a race to see which buyer got there first. The gang here is good at scouring CL for the right thing. Also, good deals can be found on new stock by hunting.
 
Hogz, am I right on the rear-flue-not-needed idea?
Yes, a rear flue is not exclusively necessary, I would prefer to top outlet myself if doable.
 
The stove comes with pedestal installed, and 9" legs inside if you want legs instead of the pedestal.
They also offer a 6" leg kit. You may be able to use them without any trimming.
Or use the 6" legs and trim them for a little more work room. There are options.
 
I agree...keep looking. One will come up. I looked everyday for months because I didn't have the cash to drop on a new stove. A good EPA stove will come up sooner or later. I had to do a 6 (3 each way) hour road trip to get mine. Did all the work myself an used a 20' insulated liner kit and came in around $1k. Make sure you search for every possible variation of woodstove, wood stove, fireplace, fire place etc.

Just a quick look at craigslist in your area brought up these:

Don't know if this is an EPA model or not:

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/app/4263249884.html
http://dayton.craigslist.org/hsh/4255831366.html
 
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