Are replacement windows a fad?

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Valid point except nobody out my way has double-hung and have no clue what a storm window is(unless they are a transplant. I did replace our single-pane casement (crank to open) with double-pane sliders. The rooms are warmer in winter, cooler in summer, and the noise tranmission is seriously reduced (used to hear my neighbor start their car when I was in the back of our house, now I can't, nor can I hear the trash truck).[/quote]


I fully agree with ya on noise too. As mentioned i replaced my windows with replacements....as well as closing in my porch with "new construction" giant sliding windows(8 of them, energy stars with a wider gas gap)....I have a Bose Wave System i leave on the porch...I can crank that thing....with windows closed I cant even hear it lol....same with outside noise....i can hardly hear it if at all.
 
Can tell you that in Canada we have a fed govt program for eco energy upgrades for your house. So if I upgrade my attic insulation I might get a $500 rebate. If I change my basement insulation from nothing to R10 I might get $250 (numbers off the top of my head as I haven't looked at the form in awhile). But.... windows and doors are only $35 a piece if you change to energy star rating. I talked to the inspector and the rationale behind it is that going from r20 to R40 in the roof is huge and will net you big savings; while going from an R1 crappy window to R5 for a good window isn't going to do much for your total energy savings.

The incentives are for more insulation and sealing air leakage (they do an air test on your house).
 
For us, especially my wife, the driving factor was comfort. With our old windows, we couldn't sit by them in the winter due to the cold drafts. We bit the bullet big time, and put in R8 rated windows, new construction type. These won't payback cash in two lifetimes, but they were an instant hit on comfort, plus we live in the woods and on a lake, and we don't have a single window covering. Why spend big bucks on windows just to cover them up? may as well have a wall with a picture.

Now when its -35F outside, howling winds, blowing snow, we sit by the windows and actually enjoy the snowstorm; and in the summer the lightning storms over the lake are better than any fireworks display.

An architectural point. Consider staying away from traditional wide window casings, and go with as small as you can to cover the gap between the wall and window jam. Large casings draw your eyes to the frame of the window; small casings draw your eye to the window itself. If you have something worth looking out to see, keep that the focus of your view.
 
I just read the first page and saw the talk about the log house and having to match the windows. One local place here is advertizing these windows a lot. They say they can be stained to match your exiting wood work, or painted or whatever. The frames are made out of fiberglass and I think they have a lifetime warranty.

http://www.infinitywindows.com/
 
You have got to check these guys out. Best window best warranty...O.K I am a little biased because I am the plant manager for this company. We do offer a life time warranty, we can paint the interior a different color than the exterior. We will paint to any color you would like, meaning we also paint to a customer color of the customers choice. We now offer triple pane as well. Check it out for your self and ask around before you buy. Don't believe any sales guy they are all very hungry for work. http://www.paradigmwindows.com/

I would appreciate any feedback.
 
Redox said:
FWIW, I have played with some heat loss software to see what the effect of various improvements would make. All the losses showed up as infiltration, which can be sealed up with a few tubes of caulk and some weatherstripping. Even a single pane window isn't that bad if you have storms and a shade. Best available technology is great if you can afford it, but a little caulk and insulation goes a long way, IMHO.
Chris

Except for the part about all the losses being air infiltration, I agree. Testimonies comparing old, drafty windows with new construction types claiming high R values are comparing apples to oranges. And I remain completely skeptical that any window which you can see through with clarity can deliver R8.

Those of you thinking of spending big bux on windows, please read the book I referenced above before you do it. I found it in our public library.
 
I don't remember the brand (PPG?) but my brother in law's greenhouse addition has R10 glass. I've been there in December and even at night the glass feels about the same temp as a wall. Quite remarkable. I believe there are also some Canadian windows that are rated R10 (triple pane).
 
One other item that I think is peculiar is the way the window companies state that the energy savings with their product will be tremendous and then back up their claim with a nearly worthless guarantee.

In my opinion the worst offender is NewPro. They are a major player in the southern New England market and from what I have heard they make a quality product. So good that their advertisements include a GUARANTEE of 40% savings on your fuel consumption or they'll pay the difference. Very attractive, eh?

But read the details of the guarantee which states that the maximum amount they will pay under the guarantee is $500! So spend $25,000 expecting huge fuel savings and if it doesn't pan out they give back 2% of the price. Big deal.
 
I switched from aluminum frame to vinyl frame windows on the front of our house this year (with low-e glass). The rooms are about 5-7 degrees cooler this year during the peak daytime.

Windows if installed in the right conditions can offer a huge savings.

The biggest problem with my old aluminum frame windows is they hadn't been sealed to the sash so air just leaked by. Was a pretty crappy job by the contractor who built the house in 77'.
 
And I remain completely skeptical that any window which you can see through with clarity can deliver R8.

Can't testify to the accuracy of the rating of our R8 rated windows, but what I can say is that they are the approximate equivalent of 4 pane: two glass layers (inside and outside) with two sheets of clear plastic between, gas filled, and coated to reflect infrared. Infrared, inside or outside, is reflected back, which means summer outside heat does not get in and inside winter heat stays in. Also, low angle solar gets in during the winter, good passive solar. Our 4 foot eaves block summer solar.

No frost, no condensation, and we get -35F during the winter. Even the window over the kitchen sink, with hot water in the sink, will not show any condensation. Windows are warm to the touch, no drafts. We have 26 feet of glass across the front of our house, and with howling winter winds, -35F, you can sit right by the windows and feel no drafts.

These are no longer being made, or I would be a very good salesman for them. Be assured, although the price can be very high, there are exceptionally performing windows on the market. U factors ranging from 0.20 to 0.08 (R5 to R12). These may be center of glass ratings, but the framing of some windows is also very high tech and exceptionally efficient.
 
let me think $10 roll of plastic, lattice boards I have been using the last 5 years and concrete form nails (the ones with the double heads) I have been using the last 5 years, a ladder and an after noon in the fall and one in the spring. or a few thousand dollars to replace the windows, think I will continue to plastic the windows I have for now, I have replaced 4 windows down stairs and 3 up stairs with double pane low E and argon but that was because they had broke and the frames were bad too. single pane 4 light windows. they are probably older than me. they sill have window weights to hold them open.
 
"Last year I replaced all the windows in my house with those expensive double-pane energy-efficient kind.

But this week, I got a call from the contractor complaining that his work had been completed a whole year and I had yet to pay for them.

Boy, oh boy, did we go around!

Just because I'm blond doesn't mean that I am automatically stupid.

So, I proceeded to tell him just what his fast-talking sales guy had told me last year...that in one year the windows would pay for themselves.

There was silence on the other end of the line, so I just hung up, and he hasn't called back. Guess he felt really stupid, huh???"
 
lol...lol...lol
 
Great! Y'all got this thread moved to the ASH CAN.

Chris
 
actually it started out in the ash can, but moved to the green room because it is a worthwhile topic.
 
I have a 100+ yr old new englander, after burning 600 gal of oil for winter '02 (with the heat at 64) I put plastic over all the windows for the next winter. that winter I noticed how the plasitc bowed out and poped when doors were opened and shut, also my bedroom windows flaped in the wind. I got 5 windows installed by home depot, the four upstairs windows and one in my kitchen (the coldest room in the house). the next winter I burned about 500 gal of oil and had warmer rooms upstairs (the bedrooms). I hate these windows! they are single hung, double pane, tilt wash, the upper window does not open (I couldn't afford to get double hung), the child latches fall out after the first time you bump them hard and the condensation vents at the bottom stick open or shut all the time( causing my upstairs windows to freeze shut). and all that for $2400!
Three years ago I got window world windows installed in the rest of my house, the price was $199 per window installed. window world is a national company that has an interesting pricing system, the window- double hung, tilt wash, two safety stops, two window latches, and a metal overlap groove at the middle that locks the upper and lower windows together when latched to stop prying. the window costs $249 (current advertised price, was $189 when I bought) no mater what the size up to a very large maximum. then there is a cost sheet for the options, at the time a screen cost $11 per window, glazing was so much, a grill was so much per pane (installed between the panes), argon inbetween the panes was so much, etc. they only come in white, but for the money I've only seen one company cheaper and I don't know about thier quality.
the windows were installed in december and I noticed the change right away, I actualy had to shut the vent on some of my baseboards because the room was too hot. Now I burn about 400 gal of oil a year with the thermostat set at 64 and the curtains don't flap in the wind. the windows have stood up very well, I don't have any complaints and they are a million times better than I had before. I am realy thinking about replacing the home depot windows with window world ones and using the home depot ones on my screen porch, it has those lousy jalosuy windows that are good for nothing.
 
I re-did our master bedroom last February and took all the molding off around the windows and used the "window/door" spray foam insulation around them. Prior to this, while painting one of the windows the sash broke at the bottom. I put it together as best as I could until I could get a replacement (that was a fiasco - got it in July), and even though there was a small gap on the bottom between the glass and what was left of the sash the room was warmer then when the window was unbroken, without the spray foam insulation.

As a result, I will be removing ALL the window trim in my house and insulating them better.
 
i have about a 1500 sqft house that had wood framed double pain windows about 25 years old that leaked like crazy. for heat here we use oil because propane some times freezes at 40 below zero (well it turns to liguid instead of the gas that fumes off the top in the bottle of propane, the fumes is what you burn i think) we used about 1100-1300 gallons of heat oil per year, now at $5 per gallon or more. any way if you were to stand by my old windows at 30-60 below zero in the winter you could feel about a 5 mile per hour breeze seeping through the sides around the glass with a build up of ice about 2 inches thick all the way around. we put in the anderson vinal tripple pain windows with the high-e coating on the inside and heavily insulated with foam around the sides all through out the house. the windows feel warm to the touch and there is no breeze the boiler runs less than half as much and it uses about 600-700 gallons a year. i am planning to put a wood stove in i just bought in a month or two to cut that in half as well. it went from maybe a one-star insulated house to almost a five-star plus home just with the windows doors and a little extra blown in insulation in the attic. the windows should save me about $3000 or more dollars per year and have already paid them selves off in a little over a year with just 8 windows.
 
i'm sure it has been mentioned, but sound deadening is a huge improvement of good double paned windows over old windows.
 
We had a single-pane window at the top of the stairs that would ice up on the inside of the house in the winter. That was the first to be replaced. It's nice not having your had freeze when you touch a window. We also did 2 in our bedroom that you could feel and hear the wind come thru. Very noticeable improvement in temperature.

I have 4 windows that are actually just sheets of glass held in place with molding. They comprise 12 feet of the east facing downstairs wall. I can't wait to feel the difference when i replace them.
 
d.n.f. said:
Can tell you that in Canada we have a fed govt program for eco energy upgrades for your house.

It`s the same here.You can get some mony if you upgrades your windows.
But here we are replacing double pane whit 3 pane windows.

The U value has to be lass then 1.2.Dont now if you use the U therm for windows over there
 
Hansson said:
d.n.f. said:
Can tell you that in Canada we have a fed govt program for eco energy upgrades for your house.

It`s the same here.You can get some mony if you upgrades your windows.
But here we are replacing double pane whit 3 pane windows.

The U value has to be lass then 1.2.Dont now if you use the U therm for windows over there

Interesting question! Yes, we use U values, but it's more common to see R values on windows and insulation. It would seem that we have our own definition of R here in the States that is different from the rest of the world. though.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-value_(insulation)

Then we could discuss British thermal units vs. kilocalories and liters vs gallons. My head is beginning to hurt.

So; how much does oil cost in Sweden?

Chris
 
I have to say that I'm not that happy with the ~4year old Pella windows that came with the house.
They are wood on the inside.
It gets condensation in the corners when it's cold.
They mostly all do that.
I don't know why, but my vinyl windows in the last house never did that.
 
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