At least once every heating season, I forget to shut down the primary air...

[3fordasho]

and find the flue thermometer pegged at 1000F+ :-( I know I have not overfired the stove (not long enough time) but the high temp blasts are perfect for lighting off a chimney fire if build up is sufficient. I am collecting parts for a monitoring system that will automatically shut down the primary air if flue temps exceed a preset limit (like 700F). Employing the KISS design principle, I plan to use a low cost digital temp controller with relay output (ebay). This comes with a K type thermocouple which will be mounted in the stove pipe aprox 2' from the stove. When flue temps exceed the preset temp limit, the controllers relay output will turn on a small ac compressor(ebay) piped to a small air cylinder mechanically connected to my fireview's air inlet control and will simply shut it all the way down. Once flue temps drop below the preset temp, the air compressor will shut off, pressure will bleed down and because this is a non-spring return air cylinder, the air inlet control will remain closed until I manually reset it. My goal is a back up safety system for the occasional time when someone forgets to cut back inlet air after reloading or initial startup. Not a thermostatically controlled air inlet or the like. Thoughts?

 

[spirilis]

That's hardcore. Pics or it didn't happen :D

 

[Highbeam]

What's wrong with 1000? That's the max continuous rating of the pipe. Is your pipe not class A?

I routinely run the temp up to 800 or more as a matter of a proper heat up and draft establishment. 600 to 700 is pretty normal I thought for a medium burn.

 

[Highbeam]

Oh dang it. By flue thermometer you meant an actual probe meter reading actual flue temperatures right? Not some stick on external thing?

 

[BrotherBart]

Oh dang it. By flue thermometer you meant an actual probe meter reading actual flue temperatures right? Not some stick on external thing?

Before the outside of the pipe gets to 1000 degrees a stick on pipe thermo is going to be laying on the floor.

 

[wendell]

I just use an egg timer. Seems a lot simpler.

 

[3fordasho]

It was pegged at 1000F, probably much higher. Normal flue temps for a fireview at cruise is 250-300F. I try to keep it below 650-700f during start up or reload.
I'm using a tel-tru probe thermometer installed into the connector pipe, much more accurate that a magnetic stickon, especially for double wall.

What's wrong with 1000? That's the max continuous rating of the pipe. Is your pipe not class A?

I routinely run the temp up to 800 or more as a matter of a proper heat up and draft establishment. 600 to 700 is pretty normal I thought for a medium burn.

 

[WES999]

Interesting idea, On my stove I have 2 temp monitor alarms, one for flue temp and one for stove top temp. If the alarms go off
my house is small enough that I can hear it no matter where I am.

I did consider some ideas to automatically close the air if the temp goes too high, but I haven't done anything yet.
Some other possibilities, take a look at using a HVAC damper motor instead of a air cylinder and compressor, or maybe a solenoid that releases a spring.

BTW you or any one else is interested in a temp alarm like mine, I have one for sale. PM me.

 

[3fordasho]

I just use an egg timer. Seems a lot simpler.

Agreed. Another reason for installing this gadget is if I'm away and the wife has to run the stove- I'll sleep better if I know there is a back up system to shut
down the air if flue temps get too high.

 

[Hurricane]

What are you burning to get it that hot, Pallet wood ?
I do not think my stove gets that hot even with the primary open.

Although I used to cut in spring split in fall and burn in winter. This is the first year I am 2 years ahead.
I have burned dry wood and the only thing that ever came close was pallet wood.

 

[3fordasho]

Nope, no pallet wood, just air dried cord wood. None the less, a load of cord wood on top of coals and the air wide open will give me 1000F plus every time
if I inadvertently leave the air wide open for too long. (1000F+ flue temps, not stove top temps)

What are you burning to get it that hot, Pallet wood ?
I do not think my stove gets that hot even with the primary open.

Although I used to cut in spring split in fall and burn in winter. This is the first year I am 2 years ahead.
I have burned dry wood and the only thing that ever came close was pallet wood.

 

[3fordasho]

Nope, no pallet wood, just air dried cord wood. None the less, a load of cord wood on top of coals and the air wide open will give me 1000F plus every time
if I inadvertently leave the air wide open for too long. (1000F+ flue temps, not stove top temps)

What are you burning to get it that hot, Pallet wood ?
I do not think my stove gets that hot even with the primary open.

Although I used to cut in spring split in fall and burn in winter. This is the first year I am 2 years ahead.
I have burned dry wood and the only thing that ever came close was pallet wood.

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1
how to burn epa stove

I know how to run a EPA stove, this would be a back up safety device for the occasion one gets distracted or other wise forgets to shut down inlet air
after reload/start up. Can any one say this has not happened to them at least once?

 

[Dune]

I think there is a much simpler way to do this. I can't remember what it is right now, but maybe some one else will remember or I will. No, I am not on drugs anymore.

 

[begreen]

Egads. In winter, I put wood on top of coals every time I reload the stove. Kinda goes with the cycle. And yes, I have gotten distracted and forgotten to turn down the air. (and more than once a winter :red: ) On the old 602 I would start smelling that hot stove smell which would snap me back to reality, but the Alderlea just says hmmmm, fuel....

 

[DeePee]

Solenoid and a spring loaded arm would be considerably more fail-safe and a lot less complicated. I'm not sure how you intend to deal with power failures.

Make that a bi-metallic trigger and a spring loaded arm.

 

[Bubbavh]

I think there is a much simpler way to do this. I can't remember what it is right now, but maybe some one else will remember or I will. No, I am not on drugs anymore.

Don't reload the stove when it's 600 degrees F.

 

[BrotherBart]

I think there is a much simpler way to do this. I can't remember what it is right now, but maybe some one else will remember or I will. No, I am not on drugs anymore.

Don't reload the stove when it's 600 degrees F.

Bingo.

 

[ckarotka]

I'm good for a few over fires myself, especially while watching a movie. I learned that my smoke alarm will go off when this happens, the intense heat at the ceiling sets it off. I have a small Quadrafire 400 that usually I forget about. My on pipe temp is around 700 when this happens I'm not sure what the actual working range is for this stove. I will do some research now though to figure it out. Oh the stove is in the corner and the alarm is in the middle of the room. Under normal heating condition the alarm never goes off.

 

[Dune]

Solenoid and a spring loaded arm would be considerably more fail-safe and a lot less complicated. I'm not sure how you intend to deal with power failures.

Make that a bi-metallic trigger and a spring loaded arm.

Thats it! I knew someone would think of it. Much better than a compressor,etc.

 

[Hurricane]

So if the flu gas is at 1000 degrees + what do you think stove top temp is ?
I have run my quad above 750 stove top a few times and it was cooking. I have an insert so there is no easy way to get at the flue to measure flue gas temp.
Just trying to gauge .

 

[Ratman]

Nope, no pallet wood, just air dried cord wood. None the less, a load of cord wood on top of coals and the air wide open will give me 1000F plus every time
if I inadvertently leave the air wide open for too long. (1000F+ flue temps, not stove top temps)

What are you burning to get it that hot, Pallet wood ?
I do not think my stove gets that hot even with the primary open.

Although I used to cut in spring split in fall and burn in winter. This is the first year I am 2 years ahead.
I have burned dry wood and the only thing that ever came close was pallet wood.

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1
how to burn epa stove

I know how to run a EPA stove, this would be a back up safety device for the occasion one gets distracted or other wise forgets to shut down inlet air
after reload/start up. Can any one say this has not happened to them at least once?

I would reconsider this statement; "I know how to run a EPA stove" if your flue temp was way north of 1000F.

Ask the guys here if that sounds like a correct reading for your stove / chimney set-up because something sounds real fishy here.

 

[Todd]

It's very easy to top 1000 degree internal stove pipe temps with the Fireview in bypass mode because the bypass is located in the back of the stove and directs the flame right up the pipe. I've been over 1500 on occasion. The best thing to do on reloads is to keep your air at #2 or less, you don't need all that air and you will waste a lot of heat up the flue. The only time I run wide open is during a cold start up. It sounds like you need a higher rated thermometer, my Condar probe goes up to 2000.

 

[BrotherBart]

I am starting to get a plan together in my head for a Rube Goldberg kinda thing for this. Hmmm... heat melts wax that drips on cup that seesaws and ball rolls across the living room and releases the spring latch that...

Of course the forum member that sets an egg timer alarm when he starts a fire probably has the best answer. Two bucks at Target.

 

[3fordasho]

Nope, no pallet wood, just air dried cord wood. None the less, a load of cord wood on top of coals and the air wide open will give me 1000F plus every time
if I inadvertently leave the air wide open for too long. (1000F+ flue temps, not stove top temps)

What are you burning to get it that hot, Pallet wood ?
I do not think my stove gets that hot even with the primary open.

Although I used to cut in spring split in fall and burn in winter. This is the first year I am 2 years ahead.
I have burned dry wood and the only thing that ever came close was pallet wood.

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/default.asp?lang=En&n=8011CD70-1
how to burn epa stove

I know how to run a EPA stove, this would be a back up safety device for the occasion one gets distracted or other wise forgets to shut down inlet air
after reload/start up. Can any one say this has not happened to them at least once?

I would reconsider this statement; "I know how to run a EPA stove" if your flue temp was way north of 1000F.

Ask the guys here if that sounds like a correct reading for your stove / chimney set-up because something sounds real fishy here.

Ok, 99.9999% of the time I know how to run a EPA stove, Exactly once every burning season (two for me so far) I have left the inlet air wide open a touch too long.
In neither case was the stove at 600F stove top temp either. A combination of wide open air, load of fresh fuel results in a run away fire that sends flames up at least the first couple feet of my connector pipe (where the tel-tru probe is located) and sends the thermometer to 1000F+. Going forward I would like to safe guard against this situation in the case that myself or some one else leaves the inlet air open a touch too long. Are you saying I have an unusual situation that others do not experience?

 

[3fordasho]

It's very easy to top 1000 degree internal stove pipe temps with the Fireview in bypass mode because the bypass is located in the back of the stove and directs the flame right up the pipe. I've been over 1500 on occasion. The best thing to do on reloads is to keep your air at #2 or less, you don't need all that air and you will waste a lot of heat up the flue. The only time I run wide open is during a cold start up. It sounds like you need a higher rated thermometer, my Condar probe goes up to 2000.

Exactly, this might be a case somewhat unique to the fireview and some other cat stoves with the bypass. I've seen the results of air being left wide open for maybe 5-10 minutes too long, what would happen in the worse case where someone loaded the stove and then forgot and went to bed or left the house? somethings going to melt down. I know the easy answer is the stove operator should be aware and never let this situation occur, but human nature what it is....