Attic insulation shield

[Hass]

Anyone ever make one out of tin?
My dad went out to buy a piece of double wall pipe for me and pick up the insulation shield... and the dealer said to just make one out of sheet metal or flashing.

Anyone have a picture of the finished product?
Pictures of the shield online look a little bit more complicated than just throwing something together with tin.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Anyone ever make one out of tin?
My dad went out to buy a piece of double wall pipe for me and pick up the insulation shield... and the dealer said to just make one out of sheet metal or flashing.

Anyone have a picture of the finished product?
Pictures of the shield online look a little bit more complicated than just throwing something together with tin.

Considering how inexpensive my attic insulation shield cost to purchase, I wouldn't consider making one. Not cost effective.

 

[begreen]

I was pondering this question recently when looking at an installation. The attic insulation shield typically is an assembly and not just a simple surround. It consists of a firestop barrier, the shield and a cap. This is ideal for a straight up installation through multiple floors where a fire stop is required. My problem with a simple collar made of flashing is that it might not be tall enough, it's open on the top and the seal on the bottom might be crude. This could be an issue if you or some future home owner blew in more insulation into the attic.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I was pondering this question recently when looking at an installation. The attic insulation shield typically is an assembly and not just a simple surround. It consists of a firestop barrier, the shield and a cap. This is ideal for a straight up installation through multiple floors where a fire stop is required. My problem with a simple collar made of flashing is that it might not be tall enough, it's open on the top and the seal on the bottom might be crude. This could be an issue if you or some future home owner blew in more insulation into the attic.

I'll second that one. They're too complicated to make right without costing too much. I'd just buy one. It'll be UL listed. Insurance company will prefer that.

 

[Hass]

Yeah... They're only like $30-40... I was just surprised that a dealer would say to make one out of tin yourself. Maybe he didn't have any in stock? :|
I guess I'll try to find a local shop open today to pick one up.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Yeah... They're only like $30-40... I was just surprised that a dealer would say to make one out of tin yourself. Maybe he didn't have any in stock? :|
I guess I'll try to find a local shop open today to pick one up.

Good idea. While I'm fairly handy, I had enough to think about with installing my premanufacturd class a chimney system, let alone fabricating parts. I also recommend taking pictures at each step of your install.

 

[Hass]

First road block along the way... The Class A through the roof kit doesn't fit the Class A pipe that I have. the opening on the kit is 8 1/4", the pipe I have is 9" OD.
Yay!

 

[Trktrd]

I don't have an insulation shield. Only about 2' of class A going from ceiling box to roof flashing. Is this something I should be worried about? When I bought everything the shield was never mentioned. Second season with this setup.

 

[begreen]

What is keeping the insulation away from the pipe?

 

[LLigetfa]

Maybe post a pic or link to one. Usually a roof flashing has an oversized hole at the bottom with a dunce cap taper section above it. If you shoorten the section a little, the hole in the top should get larger.

 

[LLigetfa]

You can also flare out the metal by drawing it with round stock.

 

[Highbeam]

You need to be able to guarantee that 2" clearance to combustibles which include insulation up in the attic. Folks usually cut down the OEM insulation shield or build one from something metal in the case of a very low attic.

Don't mix brands of chimney connectors and accessories, when you start mixing brands then things don't fit and some would say that the system is no longer UL listed since the one manufacturer isn't going to guarantee the system that includes some off-brand parts. The chimney system is not a place to go cheap. I would rather you buy a crappy stove than buy a crappy cobbled together chimney.

In my vertical installation, the attic insulation shield is also the ceiling support box which bolts to the trusses to support the chimney above. It is open on top and I did have to vacuum insulation out of it after the insulation company blew the stuff into my attic. I'm not terribly worried about firberglass insulation catching fire but if this was chewed up bone dry newspaper (cellulose) then I would really be worried.

 

[Trktrd]

I made sure of the 2" clearances and that the insulation was clear of the support box when installed. Had to do everything from the outside due to no access to that part of the attic.

 

[LLigetfa]

Folks usually cut down the OEM insulation shield or build one from something metal in the case of a very low attic.

In my case, I have cathedral ceiling and so didn't run through an attic per se, but did use radiation shield. The attic insulation shield is a short section that is crimped down at the top to keep stuff from falling into the space. I bought long sections of radiation shield and chased the full length between the floor and cathedral ceiling adapter with it. The same could be done in a real attic.

 

[Hass]

Maybe post a pic or link to one. Usually a roof flashing has an oversized hole at the bottom with a dunce cap taper section above it. If you shoorten the section a little, the hole in the top should get larger.

it is an oversized hole at the bottom, it tapers down to 8 1/4" The Class A pipe is 9" There are vents about 1" below the end of the taper, so I didn't want to cut in to it.

Don't mix brands of chimney connectors and accessories, when you start mixing brands then things don't fit and some would say that the system is no longer UL listed since the one manufacturer isn't going to guarantee the system that includes some off-brand parts. The chimney system is not a place to go cheap. I would rather you buy a crappy stove than buy a crappy cobbled together chimney.

I was told not to mix any chimney pipe brand, but you can mix the roof kits and ceiling boxes.

 

[greythorn3]

search my uuser name i made one by boxing in the roof joists with sheetmetall, and then cutting a bottom plate with snips and securing it to the ceiling, that was my first one, and i made 2 more 2 more i have no pics of this summer, made them similar but with rounded corners, just cut the sheet at a angle to match the flasing and put the top up in there and ran it down to the ceiling joists, screwed togeather the seam, wrapped it with insulation and vapor barrier and capped them off at ceiling with sheetmetal and called it good.


when we bought our place the fuel oil class a chimney had no clearance and was up against the insulation going thru the roof. so i made sheetmetal enclosure for that one also. now feel allot safer. as min required is 2" space, i do more like 4 - 6" space.

 

[LLigetfa]

There are vents about 1" below the end of the taper, so I didn't want to cut in to it.

Can't say I've ever seen one with vents. What are they, small holes or slits? Can you connect the dots by cutting between them and drill or punch holes further down?

 

[Hass]

There are vents about 1" below the end of the taper, so I didn't want to cut in to it.

Can't say I've seen one with vents. What are they, small holes or slits? Can you connect the dots by cutting between them and drill or punch holes further down?

Vertical slits about 1/4" wide 1" long(tall) all the way around.
I think if I cut down enough to open it wide enough for the chimney pipe to pass through I'd hit the slotted vent part, and then I imagine that'd be a mess. I'm just going to take it back to the dealer tomorrow with a piece of stove pipe and say "show me"

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

First road block along the way... The Class A through the roof kit doesn't fit the Class A pipe that I have. the opening on the kit is 8 1/4", the pipe I have is 9" OD.
Yay!

I'd take all the stuff back to the dealer and get some help. My understanding of class A chimney and parts is they should not be mixed between brands or in some cases lines within a brand. One thing to keep in mind is that all the chimneys out there were tested to meet or exceed standards. The tests were conducted using components that were engineered to work together. Mixing and matching could end up working but in the event of a fire, there would likely be problems to face. Insurance companies are not in business to pay claims! I would double check that you were given all the correct components.

 

[Hass]

I looked it up and I guess Typical Class A pipe is 8" OD. The Ameri-tec pipe I have is 9" OD.
I can't find a local dealer that sells Ameritec parts :|

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I looked it up and I guess Typical Class A pipe is 8" OD. The Ameri-tec pipe I have is 9" OD.
I can't find a local dealer that sells Ameritec parts :|

I would think you could find an online dealer with parts to go with Ameritec pipe.

 

[Mike2187]

Yeah... They're only like $30-40... I was just surprised that a dealer would say to make one out of tin yourself. Maybe he didn't have any in stock? :|
I guess I'll try to find a local shop open today to pick one up.

I know this is an old thread but I'm resurrecting it.
There is an instructional video by Northline Express (chimney dealers) on YouTube showing how to make one. He made his out of OSB. As long as 2 inch clearance is maintained wood can be used.

 

[Highbeam]

Yep,

I know this is an old thread but I'm resurrecting it.
There is an instructional video by Northline Express (chimney dealers) on YouTube showing how to make one. He made his out of OSB. As long as 2 inch clearance is maintained wood can be used.

Yep, clearances are to combustibles. You can also use OSB on the wall behind your stove so long as it is outside of the clearances. The job of the shield is to hold back insulation and not to block fire.