I was filling the hopper and noticed a few things about the top auger. One is that the top auger kinda floats a little I assume it is supposed to do this because all pellets are not the same size is this correct? The second thing i noticed is that it has a shiny flat spot on the auger blade this just doesn't look right to me
auger ? on 55 shp10
- Thread starter bfgmt
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stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
the augers are designed to "free float" this helps in avoiding jams. as for the shiny spot , it could simply be where the auger was grinded at the foundry to take off the "curf" from the casting process.
so this would have nothing to do with the occasional no flame I get I thought it may be that that spot might be the problem. Another ? Is it ok to have a burn pot that goes 30-60 seconds with no flame at all just very hot yellowish orange coals in the bottom I know from wood that this is where all the heat is at but I'm not sure how it effects a pellet stove and this is what happens every now and than maybe every 3 min or so than the flame picks right up again.
bfgmt said:
If you get 30-60 seconds of no flame every 3 minutes or so, that doesn't sound right to me. The only time I ever see only orange embers and no flame is during shutdown.
Does it do this during all heat settings, or only on lower (1 or 2)?
Have you changed the lower button settings, or are they still at factory settings?
on all settings funny thing is i just put it on 1-3 and let it go for a while I turned the 2nd setting up from 4 to 5 and when it died down it had just a small flame instead of going out ,I let it run like that for a while and than went to 6 so now it was at 6-6-1, and still went to a small flame once in a while at 6-7-1 same thing but not as ofter than at 5-7-1, no change,but at 4-7-1 out coals again instead of a flame what should I try next? this is gonna drive me nuts!!
bfgmt said:
You do understand that on your particular stove (2004 or later) the bottom settings LFF and LBA affect only heat ranges 1 and 2 don`t you? And that 6-4-1 are the prescribed factory default settings. It`s very possible that with some pellets you might have to open the slide plate in the hopper or even remove it. If you are losing the flame on 1 and 2 heat range you might want to try 7-4-1 on the bottom 3 and see if that improves it.
Using heat range setting at 3 and higher the pellets and combustion air are automatically programmed.
Presently I`m having a problem getting enough pellets fed into the burnpot at the higher settings and I`m expection a new control board will fix that issue.
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
locate the small hole in the back of the firewall just outside of the butrn pot to the right , will be approx 1/2 inch from the right outer wall of the pot , and about 3/4 inch lower than the bottom edge of the baffle plate , ensure it is clear if restricted you will have skipped cycles as the fire heats up the air in the firebox the air density (and the strength of the vacuum in the firebox) are diminished , this plus a bit of a restriction can cause the door ajar vacuum switch to open until the fire dies back and air density comes back up , then it will feed again until it repeats the cycle. locate the hole and ream it out with a toothpick
oh and reset your lower settings to default
oh and reset your lower settings to default
Defaults are reset it seems like that hole may have been restricted i don't know i cleaned out all the holes i could find and than blew everything out with a straw it took a few times to get it right and i got some ash in my eyes but after a few seconds i figured out how much air it took it worked good to clear the everything without a full vac I haven't got one for the stove yet.
bfgmt said:
So, after clearing the hole out & resetting the bottom buttons to the default setting, does the stove burn more evenly now?
bfgmt said:
Personally I don`t think it was a good idea to blow the hole out with air from the front (inside the stove) since it could only blow any ash further back into the tubing and up into the vacuum switch plugging it. You might now have to take off the rear cover and disconnect the hose from the vac switch and blow it out from the rear. (Thats how I did it) Then check the vac sw itself to see if it`s plugged.
After checking out one of these vac switches the other day , they seem very delicate . It`s surprising how little pressure it takes for it to activate the contacts . I`d not blow compressed air into the switch itself for fear of damaging it. At least not air out of an air compressor.
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