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Austroflamm Integra Help Needed

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by RKBAGUY, Oct 5, 2013.

  1. RKBAGUY

    RKBAGUY Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Loc:
    Milford, PA
    Howdy, folks. I picked up a pre-owned Austroflamm Integra a few days ago and am in the process of cleaning the stove and getting prepped for installation.

    Before I get her into place, I want to put power to her to make sure everything works. I have two sets of wires coming out of the right hand (control panel) side of the stove. One set is very thin and have red and black connectors, the other set of wires are heavier gauge with yellow insulation and black connectors. On the yellow set, one goes to the internal control board, the other to the wiring block. I'm going to assume that the yellow wires connect to the fuse and the fine red/black connectors go to the electronic board but I'm not sure if polarity matters, so your input would be appreciated.

    Here's a shot of the two yellow wires located to the left of the airflow sensor:
    [​IMG]

    The second question relates to aesthetics. There's some rust at the top of the firebox and elsewhere. I'd like to sand it down and repaint with some high-temp enamel, but another member here said not to bother because it'd get burned off anyway. I'd also like to refinish the gold trim in favor of... well, something more subdued, but that's just me. If I were to sand them down and refinish with a high-temp enamel paint, would that be alright? Just wanted to see if I can make her look a little better.

    [​IMG]

    Here she is from a 'distance'. I've seen worse, but there's room for improvement:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks again in advance!
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2013

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  2. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Except for other Austroflamm owners who know the stove well, we can't comment on the wires w/o seeing a wiring diagram of the stove.

    After you test fire it outdoors, after it cools I'd do a teardown and blow out as much of the inner ash traps and exhaust passages with compressed air, and even maybe a leaf blower treatment after all that's done.

    Make sure all the motors run before re-installing them....many of us have made 120v ac test power wires out of an old lamp cord just for this reason (well insulated, of course!).

    As for the painting, I'd just wire brush/sand the interior surface rust and give it a coat or 2 of Hi Temp Stove Paint, like Rustoleum brand you can get in WallyWorld. Even if appears to have "burned off" later in the winter, I think it can't hurt....and it'll look much nicer for awhile anyway.

    You can do whatever you want on the exterior. I think satin black would look good.

    Don't forget to do the "dollar bill test" all around the door gasket.
  3. RKBAGUY

    RKBAGUY Member

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2013
    Messages:
    231
    Loc:
    Milford, PA
    Which would be why I asked the question here, as opposed to somewhere else. ;-)

    Done cleaning and painting. I'd like to put power to her (not comfortable directly powering the motors just yet), but really need some help on the connections. Hope someone out there is looking on...
  4. jumpinin

    jumpinin Member

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2008
    Messages:
    37
    Loc:
    hudson valley
    That thing looks seriously abused. On my freestanding the colors differ from yours. I would guess based on locale the yellow wires go to a temp switch on the convection motor? From your picture they do not look
    like factory connections. I can't see the red / black set of wires from your picture. Also - I don't know what all that insulation is in there - I would clean that out. Drop the 2 cast plates in the front and scrub the hell out of
    the heat exchange tubes behind. Remove the combustion motor (gasket required) and cleanout plate (opposite end of combustion tube) and remove all ash inside. Maybe this will help you somewhat in terms of troubleshooting:
    PM me if you need further info

    upload_2013-10-5_18-51-42.png
  5. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2009
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    4,008
    Loc:
    Southcoast, MA
    Yellow wire go to the 250 high limit switch just above convection motor which you may be missing. Black wires with a the 3/16 female disconnect go to the fuse.
  6. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    Insulation stays....
  7. RKBAGUY

    RKBAGUY Member

    Joined:
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    Loc:
    Milford, PA
    Ah. That explains it. Here all along I was actually looking for the switch itself, not realizing it might be gone. So, just to be clear, the low limit switch mounts as indicated in this photo, on the radiused (short) end of the convection housing, correct?

    [​IMG]

    Any other pointers you can offer are greatly appreciated. I'm worried by the time I get this figured out there'll be snow on the ground and I'll be a meat popsicle in my living room.
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2013
  8. RKBAGUY

    RKBAGUY Member

    Joined:
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    Loc:
    Milford, PA
    OK, found spare high limit switches, and jumped the yellow wires to test. Exhaust and auger motors work, but convection blower isn't running. Is there something wrong, or do I need to also jump the lower limit switch on the exhaust blower to test?
  9. RKBAGUY

    RKBAGUY Member

    Joined:
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    Disregard the above posts. I was confused on which therm switch was which and I was jumping the HT instead of LT. Everything tests OK. Installing tomorrow. Thanks!!!
  10. Bioburner

    Bioburner Moderator Staff Member

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    West central Mn
    I wouldn't install till you have a successful burn in. May save your back and sanity which might already have been in question:)
  11. RKBAGUY

    RKBAGUY Member

    Joined:
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    Loc:
    Milford, PA
    Let tell 'ya brother, my sanity has been suspect long before buying a pellet stove. :-D
  12. imacman

    imacman Guest

    I agree w/ Bioburner....do the test burn outdoors before installing. Let it run at least 1-2 hours on medium heat.

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