Austroflamm Integra still no go

[altmartion]

Altmartion,
I believe you get what you pay for. I am reluctant to buy the cheaper motor because his doesn't look like my OEM, but at $97, I could replace it every other year and probably be ahead. HOWEVER, since this motor is so difficult for me to remove & reinstall, I don't want to do it any more than necessary. I have contacted both sellers on Ebay, and both told me about their motor. The cheaper motor is not from Austria and doesn't look like my OEM motor, but he said it would work. The more expensive is my motor, and all my settings on my stove are set for this exact motor.

It's kind of like do I buy an AC Delco alternator from the Chevy dealer or do I go to Autozone and buy the aftermarket alternator? That's how I see it.

I agree. it's kind of funny. if they sold it for $50 cheaper most people wouldn't even think twice. but because it is so cheap it throws up a flag. yes, you certainly get what you pay for. I loose too many jobs because so many hacks underbid me by a lot. sometime $2000. but I refuse to lower my prices because of quality. I just wish the home owners would understand that.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

I ordered the auger motor yesterday late. When I get it and get it installed, I will let you know if I am a genius or an idiot.

 

[altmartion]

I ordered the auger motor yesterday late. When I get it and get it installed, I will let you know if I am a genius or an idiot.

I don't think you will be either. certainly not an idiot. it is hard to diagnose without the correct tools. and for some people it doesn't make sense to purchase them. I however am the opposite. I am always buying tools. but I am also a heating and mechanical contractor as well. I do suggest you invest in miltimeter. one that is easy to use and understand. I don't expect you to purchase a fluke or extec but a decent quality. this will help in future diagnostics. and if you can, get a clamp on meter. then you can get amp readings without removing connections. just a suggestion.

 

[RKBAGUY]

I do suggest you invest in miltimeter. one that is easy to use and understand. I don't expect you to purchase a fluke or extec but a decent quality.

If someone were to want to buy a good quality multimeter for general all-around use, but not be afraid to spend a few bucks, what would you recommend? Is there something that the layman can use successfully, but perhaps with 'accessories' for specialty metering, say for amperage draw, or something like that?

 

[Mt Bob]

Fluke,choice of electricians and automotive techs.

 

[altmartion]

If someone were to want to buy a good quality multimeter for general all-around use, but not be afraid to spend a few bucks, what would you recommend? Is there something that the layman can use successfully, but perhaps with 'accessories' for specialty metering, say for amperage draw, or something like that?[/quote
fluke makes great meters with lots of options. but they generally start expensive unless you want a stripped down model, which you don't.
extec makes good quality at a fair price. they also have low priced stripped down as well. and they are reliable just like fluke. I have found that extec is more "beginner" user friendly. not trying to offend you with the beginner reference. klien probably makes one too. you can get temp probes(sometimes 2) esp probes delta t readings. from what I am gathering from the info you have given us, again not trying to offend, I recommend the following; clamp on, miliviolts (usually standard), backlighting and at least one temp probe. the temp probe is not a necessity but is very handy. you will be surprised how much you use it. obviously you will want ohms and continuity alarm but they come with any good multimeter. peak hold is great for amp draws in hard to get to spots. like integra motors, lol. do research on fluke and extec web sites so you can figure out exactly what model works for you. extec used to have an interactive model search to help with the task of picking a model with the functions you need. I don't know if they still have it. now I want a new one. I have been thinking about ig a new one for a little while anyway. I think you just boosted me along. is it wrong to get exited about buying a new meter? or any tool?

 

[ChandlerR]

Fluke,choice of electricians and automotive techs.

I LOVE my Flukes. I have Snap on tools too because when you use them to earn a living, it pays to get first quality stuff. A homeowner, not so much, but you don't want to buy something that won't work right. My son in law has a multi meter from HD and his ohm meter does not agree with my Fluke...just sayin' (It's a digital and there's no zero adjustment)

 

[Mt Bob]

Fluke 87 in my snap on box,.ffluke 23 for home.You can sometimes find 23s on ebay,and accessories plug in.You can trust fluke readings,cheap meters not so much.Also be aware when you get into adding a clamp adapter add on prices go way up,and this is where quality comes in,vs cheap meters and accessories.My 87 is true rms,needed for automotive,not needed around the house.

 

[altmartion]

Fluke 87 in my snap on box,.ffluke 23 for home.You can sometimes find 23s on ebay,and accessories plug in.You can trust fluke readings,cheap meters not so much.Also be aware when you get into adding a clamp adapter add on prices go way up,and this is where quality comes in,vs cheap meters and accessories.My 87 is true rms,needed for automotive,not needed around the house.

true rms is important with todays heating equipment as well. clamp on will add to the price but is incredibly convenient. I will never be without one again. it saves a lot of screw'n around. I know extec has a clamp on that is not removable. and fluke probably does too. I prefer the removable but I use it many times every day. yes a reputable manufacture is important, you can't trust cheapo's 100%. at least not me. I sometimes play with big power and mistakes are not an option.

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

I received my auger motor a couple of days before Christmas, but didn't get around to installing it until today, Monday. It took a lot of cussing to get it in and tightened. Turned on the stove and let it go, and it fired right up. So after about a half hr run, I shut it down to allow it to cool off so I can put it all back together. I still have it half out on the hearth. Maybe I can get enthusiastic enough to put the plate on the back, tie up the wires looms, and push it back into it's spot, connect the side panels and anything else I had removed. I must say that I learned a lot from this site, but unless it breaks again, I probably will not lurk around too much. Happy New Year to all.

 

[skibumm100]

If someone were to want to buy a good quality multimeter for general all-around use, but not be afraid to spend a few bucks, what would you recommend? Is there something that the layman can use successfully, but perhaps with 'accessories' for specialty metering, say for amperage draw, or something like that?

Nothing wrong with buying a high quality Fluke. I own one, but I also own Omega's, Extech's and a Craftsman as well as a bunch of others....an old Simpson analog and a bunch of other analogs and digitals. I find about all of them are accurate enough and I would trust any of them for residential or light industrial work. The Fluke I have has a nice holster and an integral amp "fork" that works as a clamp on. Model number escapes me. I keep a multimeter in every vehicle, one in the kitchen and at least one in every tool box. I have too many tools.....

 

[Frank Nuhfer]

Well I tied everything up, assembled all the panels and pushed it back into place. It has been running since with no problems. I did notice that the temperature coming out of the front of the stove is much hotter now, I suspect because everything is so clean.

 

[Mark_ms]

Great to hear you got everything fixed, now enjoy the heat!

 

[Mt Bob]

Also glad you got it going,we austrian stove owners have to stick together!PS right about the cleaning,the tangential blower used in these units can lose up to 30% air flow from dirt and crud.Clean every year!

 

[pinetop12]

Also glad you got it going,we austrian stove owners have to stick together!PS right about the cleaning,the tangential blower used in these units can lose up to 30% air flow from dirt and crud.Clean every year!

I have followed this thread with great interest. You guys were great with all the help offered. I feel i learned a lot about the Rika /Austroflamm. and, Frank, glad your up and running. Nice job .

 

[db131]

Hello All,

I have been reading threads for a while now to help with my Rika Integra II insert, and I have found a lot of helpful information. I am currently in a similar spot as Frank was. My stove is erratically shutting down with an error 0. The only condition I can sometimes notice prior to it happening, is when A.) the stove temp is turned down say from 35 to 5, and/or B.) when the stove goes into CL (clean) mode. I am not positive if either A or B is true, nor does it consistently happen...it is very sporadic- sometimes once a day, sometimes once every few days. When it does happen, the burn pot flame dies down, but the auger continues to feed pellets, and both fans (exhaust and convection) are still running. I can't figure it out. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Dave

 

[Mt Bob]

I think error3 just means stove shut down but did not call to shut down.Kind of like a check engine light,it doesnt know what part is bad,just that there is a problem.When it happens does combustion motor sound like running at proper speed?Possible easy problems-blockage in exhaust,blockage in OAK.Not so easy stuff-motor staring to go,board problem,etc.Harderto check because insert.Try just cracking door open next time it is dying and opserve flame.

 

[Mt Bob]

PS maybe webbie can help you start a new thread,you would get more response.

 

[pinetop12]

Hello All,

I have been reading threads for a while now to help with my Rika Integra II insert, and I have found a lot of helpful information. I am currently in a similar spot as Frank was. My stove is erratically shutting down with an error 0. The only condition I can sometimes notice prior to it happening, is when A.) the stove temp is turned down say from 35 to 5, and/or B.) when the stove goes into CL (clean) mode. I am not positive if either A or B is true, nor does it consistently happen...it is very sporadic- sometimes once a day, sometimes once every few days. When it does happen, the burn pot flame dies down, but the auger continues to feed pellets, and both fans (exhaust and convection) are still running. I can't figure it out. Any thoughts?

Thanks.
Dave

Hi Dave,

Like you, I and mostly lurk on the site reading and hopefully learning. Hope I'm right when I suggest this ..... first you should start a new thread about your Rika Insert II . There is a blue tab to create a new thread . Top right of the yellow threads. This will be good for your specific issue .

Then post whatever info you can think of especially what you have been doing for cleaning. From your description /and I am a novice/ Have you looked at the intake and exhaust for deeper cleaning. If the stove shuts down the low limit switch or air sensor could just need to be cleaned.

Have you these links? http://luckydist.com/Heat/product.cqs?prod_id=86d6921ffd7e617d9c75f5d800d0a04e

Take a look it may help a little.

Good Luck