Auto Warranty

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chrisasst

Minister of Fire
Aug 13, 2008
1,289
cortland ny
So I bought a new car, thought I was going to get a warranty included in the payment, but I couldn't and I would have to buy it separately ( $114.00 ) a month.. So do any of you have a warranty plan you have ought off the internet that you use?
 
Better question:
Anybody had a warranty plan that was honored/not honored when needed?

I don't think I can count the number of stories I've heard about extended warranties that didn't come through in the end.
 
I buy extended warranties on vehicles because I'm not disciplined enough to put money aside for repairs. If you can, however, you might want to just thrown some money into an account--assuming the car you bought has a decent history/reputation, that may be the best way.

S
 
I would not buy an extended warranty. The last time a car salesman wanted me to buy one I told him that if the car was such a piece of sh!t that I needed an extended warranty that I would not buy it. Keep your money.
 
I'd say it depends on how long you'll have the car, and how many miles you drive. I bought one on a used car, ended up trading it in a few months later and got most of my $ on the warranty back. Alternatively, you can sell the warranty separately with the car and it might help you get a better price. But you know best if you're in a position to buy it now and plan $ for repairs, or have the steady payment and the warranty.
 
I've owned many, many vehicles and never could see where the extended warranty would be worth the dollars. At $114 per month for 5 years amounts to $6,840. That would pay for a lot of repairs.

On our last 2 cars and a large motor home we of course were offered the extended and they still keep coming in the mail. We did not buy the warranties. On the motor home one of the airbags in the front coil burst just one day before the regular warranty ended. Other than that, we put around 80,000 miles on it and other than regular maintenance was trouble free. On one car, we drove it 130,000 miles and the only thing other than regular maintenance was one set of tires. Our present car is a 2003 model with 55,000 miles on it. We did put a new set of tires on it in December. Nothing other than that except for one thing that was in the computer system but that was covered under regular warranty.

On the other hand, a neighbor has a car they bought new and it is run on a mail route. Their extended warranty has paid for itself but is the only one I know of that has. I say the car warranties are good now and no need for the extended.
 
First off I'm a bit curious as to why the new car didn't have a warranty with it . . . I mean it sounds like you bought a brand new car and it doesn't have the basic warranty . . . or are you talking about a "new" used car which may not have a warranty . . . or talking about an extended warranty. If it is a new car I'm a bit surprised there was no warranty.

Haven't bought any warranty -- basic or extended -- on the internet. Only bought one extended warranty on a car . . . and that was a "deal" where the engine blew on a used vehicle I purchased and the dealership tried to lessen the pain a bit by helping me buy the extended warranty after the fact. Helped me save a bit of money up front . . . still not sure if I came out ahead or not . . . probably not. Normally I never buy the extended warranty on the vehicles despite the well rehearsed spiels . . . .
 
Sorry for the confusion, it is a 2007 dodge caravan. I went down this morning and signed up for it :) guess I will just have to buy less pellets inorder to pay for it, but cheaper than to pay for a new part all at once. I could set aside $ each month, but the wife will come up with something to spend it..
 
$114/month? That's just shy of $1400/yr.

First question: How much did vehicle cost?

Second: Does the warranty cover any sort of routine maintenance/preventative work (oil, transmission fluid changes, brake pads, etc). I would assume it doesn't... and if you don't the recommended maintenance schedule (set by the manufacturer) to the T, that'll be the first reason your warranty is voided.

From everything i've read (Consumer reports, etc), extended warranties are, in general, a monumental waste of money. You pay all the money up front and then you have to fight REALLY hard to get them to pay out... they look for every excuse to not pay on it.

Just think... let's say something happens to the car in the next 2 yrs: What are the chances that it will exceed $2800? I think pretty slim. If it's more than that, i think you're likely looking at scrapping that vehicle and starting over.

If anything, i'd take that $114/month and put it in an "emergency vehicle" fund. After 3 yrs, you'd have $4200 to put towards a replacement vehicle should something happen to the van (or, towards making repairs on the first one).
 
Exmasonite said:
$114/month? That's just shy of $1400/yr. It is for 18 months

First question: How much did vehicle cost? Bottom line cost is $13,000

Second: Does the warranty cover any sort of routine maintenance/preventative work (oil, transmission fluid changes, brake pads, etc). I would assume it doesn't... and if you don't the recommended maintenance schedule (set by the manufacturer) to the T, that'll be the first reason your warranty is voided. All they say is maintain regular oil changes.

From everything i've read (Consumer reports, etc), extended warranties are, in general, a monumental waste of money. You pay all the money up front and then you have to fight REALLY hard to get them to pay out... they look for every excuse to not pay on it.

Just think... let's say something happens to the car in the next 2 yrs: What are the chances that it will exceed $2800? I think pretty slim. If it's more than that, i think you're likely looking at scrapping that vehicle and starting over.

If anything, i'd take that $114/month and put it in an "emergency vehicle" fund. After 3 yrs, you'd have $4200 to put towards a replacement vehicle should something happen to the van (or, towards making repairs on the first one) As stated, I could but I a married.
 
18 months? So about $2100 in warranty fees? Personally, i'd spend $150-200 and have a good, trustworthy mechanic (familiar with chrysler/dodge) take a good look at the vehicle to figure out what, if any, issues may be around the corner for you.

How many miles does the car have on it? Given the age of the vehicle, i'd sincerely doubt you're going to rack up $2100 worth of repairs in that time. I'd just make sure you have some limited 30-60 day "anti-lemon" warranty to make sure there's nothing catastrophic going on (another reason to have a mechanic look at the car). Also, I assume you have a carfax report showing no major accidents/damage reports?

My vote, pass on the warranty. Good luck!
 
Seems like the problem is not the cost of the warranty, but the fact that any money left around will be spent by the wife. The warranty would be a poor sort of substitute for a savings account. No offense, but that's nuts! Time to Man Up!
 
oh well, it is done and bought...Peace of mind if nothing else.
 
Have to agree with the others who suggested putting money aside . . . being able to put money aside for those "rainy days" is a good habit to get into . . . in the long run individuals and couples will do much better financially.

That said . . . you've gotta do what you've gotta do . . . and for some folks peace of mind is worth the cost.
 
2005 Pilot - 80,000 miles and paid off for over a year now. They wanted $1200 to extend the warranty to 5 yr 100k. Told him that the car better drive without an issue for 5 yr or 100k. Got him down to $300 for that extra protection. Never an issue - brakes and oil changes. Timing belt coming up at 100k.

1999 4runner - just clicked 200k. Bought in 2001 with 30k as a Certified Used. Came with an additional 5yr 100k warranty.

Bottom line is that you need to buy a car that has a reputation for being well built and lasting a long time. I paid a bit more for the Pilot than I wanted to but it is paid off and keeps on paying off. The 4runner has been a dream. I will never get rid of it. Biggest issue I have had is a Pinion Bearing in the rear diff; just fixing that one now.
 
I guess there is always the "What if" factor. Guess I could sit here and double guess my self on either side...
 
I've owned many vehicles over the years (have 5 right now) but never bought a new one or anything with a warranty.
 
CTwoodburner said:
2005 Pilot - 80,000 miles and paid off for over a year now. They wanted $1200 to extend the warranty to 5 yr 100k. Told him that the car better drive without an issue for 5 yr or 100k. Got him down to $300 for that extra protection. Never an issue - brakes and oil changes. Timing belt coming up at 100k.

1999 4runner - just clicked 200k. Bought in 2001 with 30k as a Certified Used. Came with an additional 5yr 100k warranty.

Bottom line is that you need to buy a car that has a reputation for being well built and lasting a long time. I paid a bit more for the Pilot than I wanted to but it is paid off and keeps on paying off. The 4runner has been a dream. I will never get rid of it. Biggest issue I have had is a Pinion Bearing in the rear diff; just fixing that one now.

Sounds like you did much better than me with my 4Runner . . . 2000 4Runner SR5 and the rear axle housing assembly was leaking -- most likely due to the large amounts of salt they use here now -- I think I was at 113K or something like that . . . I know it was not an especially high mileage number. Probably would have kept on driving it if the need for a more powerful pick up wasn't there . . . and if Toyota built their rear axle housings like most other car manufacturers . . . $50-$75 part for most other manufacturers was $1,200-$1,500 for the Toyota due to the fact the whole assembly had to be replaced. I still liked that 4Runner though . . . just needs changed.
 
firefighterjake said:
CTwoodburner said:
2005 Pilot - 80,000 miles and paid off for over a year now. They wanted $1200 to extend the warranty to 5 yr 100k. Told him that the car better drive without an issue for 5 yr or 100k. Got him down to $300 for that extra protection. Never an issue - brakes and oil changes. Timing belt coming up at 100k.

1999 4runner - just clicked 200k. Bought in 2001 with 30k as a Certified Used. Came with an additional 5yr 100k warranty.

Bottom line is that you need to buy a car that has a reputation for being well built and lasting a long time. I paid a bit more for the Pilot than I wanted to but it is paid off and keeps on paying off. The 4runner has been a dream. I will never get rid of it. Biggest issue I have had is a Pinion Bearing in the rear diff; just fixing that one now.

Sounds like you did much better than me with my 4Runner . . . 2000 4Runner SR5 and the rear axle housing assembly was leaking -- most likely due to the large amounts of salt they use here now -- I think I was at 113K or something like that . . . I know it was not an especially high mileage number. Probably would have kept on driving it if the need for a more powerful pick up wasn't there . . . and if Toyota built their rear axle housings like most other car manufacturers . . . $50-$75 part for most other manufacturers was $1,200-$1,500 for the Toyota due to the fact the whole assembly had to be replaced. I still liked that 4Runner though . . . just needs changed.

Not sure what was leaking. Axle seals are common as your differential breather may have become plugged and pressurized the axle/diff as a result. If the diff was actually leaking, it was probably the housing gasket or the seal on the end of the diff. either way, should not be a big job. I guess they just wanted to replace the differential as that would explain the high cost. Most of the time, that is the kind of crap the dealer tries to pull. If it was the actual metal housing that leaked - have no idea what to say about that - never heard of it before except for guys who crack it on a rock 4 wheeling. The 96-98 and 99-2002 4runnner are known as some of the best/bullet proof vehicles ever made. I wish i get better gas mileage...
 
CTwoodburner said:
firefighterjake said:
CTwoodburner said:
2005 Pilot - 80,000 miles and paid off for over a year now. They wanted $1200 to extend the warranty to 5 yr 100k. Told him that the car better drive without an issue for 5 yr or 100k. Got him down to $300 for that extra protection. Never an issue - brakes and oil changes. Timing belt coming up at 100k.

1999 4runner - just clicked 200k. Bought in 2001 with 30k as a Certified Used. Came with an additional 5yr 100k warranty.

Bottom line is that you need to buy a car that has a reputation for being well built and lasting a long time. I paid a bit more for the Pilot than I wanted to but it is paid off and keeps on paying off. The 4runner has been a dream. I will never get rid of it. Biggest issue I have had is a Pinion Bearing in the rear diff; just fixing that one now.

Sounds like you did much better than me with my 4Runner . . . 2000 4Runner SR5 and the rear axle housing assembly was leaking -- most likely due to the large amounts of salt they use here now -- I think I was at 113K or something like that . . . I know it was not an especially high mileage number. Probably would have kept on driving it if the need for a more powerful pick up wasn't there . . . and if Toyota built their rear axle housings like most other car manufacturers . . . $50-$75 part for most other manufacturers was $1,200-$1,500 for the Toyota due to the fact the whole assembly had to be replaced. I still liked that 4Runner though . . . just needs changed.

Not sure what was leaking. Axle seals are common as your differential breather may have become plugged and pressurized the axle/diff as a result. If the diff was actually leaking, it was probably the housing gasket or the seal on the end of the diff. either way, should not be a big job. I guess they just wanted to replace the differential as that would explain the high cost. Most of the time, that is the kind of crap the dealer tries to pull. If it was the actual metal housing that leaked - have no idea what to say about that - never heard of it before except for guys who crack it on a rock 4 wheeling. The 96-98 and 99-2002 4runnner are known as some of the best/bullet proof vehicles ever made. I wish i get better gas mileage...

Nope, not the axle seal . . . this is the housing around the differential . . . which in most vehicles has a gasketed cap bolted in place . . . for some reason on the 4Runner there is no gasketed cap -- to replace the corroded metal that was leaking I would have had to replace the whole kit and caboodle. Kind of ticked me off a bit . . . I mean it was a good vehicle, but stupidly engineered things like that -- and the difficultly in getting to the oil filter to easily do a change kind of annoyed me. In reading up on the problem I found a few other folks had the same problem -- not as common as the leaking axle seal that you mentioned -- but there were at least a few other folks who reported rusting had caused a leak.
 
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