Barometric Draft dampers - Possibly useful?

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spirilis

Minister of Fire
Sep 8, 2009
940
Baltimore, MD
My understanding of barometric draft controllers so far has been that they are a very bad idea for woodstoves due to the potential for creosote accumulation from having cooler flue temps, although their utility for fossil fuel burners is well established b/c those guys usually don't have chimney fires from condensation of the flue gasses.

But after reading Jay Shelton's "Solid Fuels Encyclopedia" (btw, this man did a lot of lab work testing stoves/etc, and this book contains a lot of good theory about solid fuel burning) I'm starting to second guess that, mainly because he states the complete opposite--that dilution air from a barometric damper actually *decreases* creosote accumulation.

Except from the section (page 172-174) (fyi, I think "SER" refers to Shelton Energy Research, his laboratory):
BAROMETRIC DRAFT CONTROLS

A barometric draft control (Figure 11-5) works on a very different principle. It contains a hinged and weighted flap that is normally closed when the appliance is not in use. During use, when the draft in the chimney exceeds a preselected value, adjusted by moving a small weight attached to the flap, the draft pulls the flap open. This lets room air into the chimney.

Barometric draft controls are commonly used with oil furnaces and boilers to improve energy efficiency. The controller maintains the right or optimum amount of air. Without the draft controller, when the draft exceeds the optimum value, more air than necessary is pulled into the combustion chamber, and excess air always decreases heat transfer efficiency.

In the case of wood-fueled heating appliances, there are both benefits and possible liabilities of using barometric draft controllers.

BENEFITS OF BAROMETRIC DRAFT CONTROLS

A significant benefit is a steadier burn and therefore steadier heating. In solid fuel heaters, combustion rates are usually limited by the air supply. (In oil appliances, the combustion rate is limited by the fuel supply.) Thus, by limiting the draft, barometric draft controls shave off the peaks and extend the duration of the burn (Figure 11-6).

Energy efficiencies do not seem to be affected dramatically. Based on careful measurements at SER of 1 typical radiant stove, it seems the main effect of a barometric draft control on energy efficiency is due to the cooler stack temperatures resulting from the air entering through the control. If the control is placed immediately after the appliance, the stovepipe will be cooler and give off less heat. However, if the control is placed at the upper end of the stovepipe just before the chimney, then only the chimney itself will be cooler; there will be no effect on heat transfer unless the chimney is interior and exposed.

Even though a barometric draft control cools the chimney, less creosote will accumulate, because dilution air in a chimney decreases creosote accumulation. Creosote reductions of up to 75 percent have been observed in experiments at SER.

This reduction in stack temperatures has another benefit. There is less thermal stress on the chimney and a decrease in possible fire hazards to surrounding combustibles. This can be of significant value, particularly in marginal chimneys, such as unlined masonry or masonry without adequate clearances. The benefit also is particularly relevant with large capacity heating systems, such as furnaces and boilers, where flue temperatures can be high.

A barometric draft control, by limiting draft, prevents dangerously hot fires in the appliance.

LIABILITIES OF BAROMETRIC DRAFT CONTROLS

There are 2 possible liabilities of barometric draft controls. Using a barometric draft control results in additional house air lost up the chimney. The net heat loss this represents depends on the excess draft in the chimney, the outdoor temperature, and on how much of the air flow represents extra house exfiltration caused by the damper (versus a rerouting of air through the damper--air which would have left by another route). Tests to determine how much new air infiltration is caused by using a barometric draft control are difficult to perform, since they must be done in actual homes. Since the amount of air flow into the control is typically small compared to house air exchange rates, it is likely that most of the air flow into the control is merely a rerouting of the air, not new infiltration, and, therefore, it does not represent a new heat loss.

In the worst case of all--the air flow being a new net loss--the net effect on the energy efficiency of the system is roughly a few percentage points. Thus, the actual effect cannot be large, but could be significant.

Do not duct outside air to a barometric draft control to eliminate the house air loss. This will defeat the primary draft-controlling function of the device, particularly during windy weather. Also, admitting cold air into the flue might not have the same effect on creosote as room temperature air.

The other possible significant liability of a barometric draft control is that during a chimney fire the control will be wide open, admitting considerable air. This could make the chimney fire more intense. But it is also possible that the extra air might have a neutral or even positive effect in terms of safety. Chimney fires are sufficiently complex that only testing can determine that net effect. It seems most likely that the effect is not good, but may not be very large. However, note that if the chimney is kept clean, this possible problem literally disappears.

NFPA standards (NFPA 90-B) require a barometric draft control on hand-fired thermostatically controlled wood furnaces. My feeling is that with large appliances, such as furnaces, or with any appliance hooked up to a chimney with excessive draft, a barometric draft control is of benefit, but only if the chimney is kept sufficiently clean that a large chimney fire is impossible.
 
Bear in mind this book was written in the 80's, codes may have changed since then and a lot of the unknown "research needs to be done" points may have had their research done by now (and found to be bad). I don't know though. Maybe some more experienced folks can chime in.

The figures referenced in this text btw just show time vs. BTU output, without the damper the peaks are high (~40K BTU) and burn time low, 3 loads completing usable heat output by 5 hours, while the chart underneath showing performance WITH a baro damper shows peak output around ~28-30K BTU and usable heat up until around ~6-7 hours.
 
Also he did talk about manual pipe dampers right before this--the general consensus was that they are not strictly necessary for truly airtight woodstoves, but that some small percentage efficiency increase can happen while using them, as he found with one of his experiments, but his speculation for the reason was either changing the smoke flow patterns inside the stovepipe (i.e. maybe the smoke gets pushed to the skin of the stovepipe more) or changes in airflow dynamics inside the stove itself--by restricting fluegas flow but opening the air inlet to compensate, the inlet airflow patterns may change in a way that promotes more turbulence which can result in better combustion.
 
There was one last sentence in the baro draft section that I couldn't type due to the post length:

Keep in mind that a barometric draft control is of no use in systems with a marginal draft since the control works by decreasing draft.
 
From what I have read, the dilution of room air decreases the chances for condensation due to low flue temperatures. We run a baro, our furnace is EPA certified. There's little deposits in the chimney, even with the low temperatures. I would suspect if a wood burning unit whether a stove or furnace that doesn't incorporate a true secondary burn, stage 3 creosote can accumulate quickly. I ran a Baro on our old wood furnace. Even trying to keep a hot fire, I would remove 2 to 3 gallons of creosote every other month. After installing an EPA certified furnace, the chimney had maybe a quart of stuff after a season. There's an instant difference with one in both burn times and efficiency. But the statement about low draft is 100% correct. A baro doesn't have a 100% seal, so if draft is low already, a Baro will hurt performance. Our chimney is 32' tall with a 5.5" rigid liner, draft is too high without one. Our furnace has an automatic damper via thermostat so a baro keeps things consistent in the flue.
 
Without a BD, my former basement install of a central wood furnace, the equivalent of a US Stove unit these days, simply could not heat my house. MPD was virtually useless since I couldn't be there to adjust throughout the burn cycle and to compensate for dropping night time temps and the resultant increased draft. In my case, 30 feet of triple wall, even though it was outside with no chase, simply pulled all the heat out of the stove before it could be transferred to the air jacket. Yes, it was an airtight stove, but even the slight bypass in place to keep the fire allowed in too much combustion air with such a great draw. When the thermostat called for heat, it was an overfire waiting to happen. The BD completely changed the stove and immediately turned it into a perfectly viable heat source. Granted, I kept the BD set to pull less room air in than I would have with a coal furnace, but it still pulled enough that I had to supply outdoor air after installing it. I burned good, well seasoned oak, ash and hickory and never had any significant creosote issues. With less than ideal wood perhaps I would have. I NEVER had any creosote accumulation on the BD itself. Seems to me if that's an issue, you lack draft to begin with and consequently have no need for a BD. Folks seem to forget the entire idea behind a BD is that you can ADJUST the amount of draft to a level that suits your needs. With wood fires you may not need as much alleviation of draft so you can simply set the BD to an alternate level of action.
 
A barometric damper needs to be set with a manometer according to the manufacturers specification. Anything outside of this can cause problems. We didn't have the liner with the old furnace, that made a large difference.
 
Edit: Came across the wrong way. Must have more coffee before posting.........
 
Of course a manometer is not a complicated device either (or doesn't *have* to be), the book shows a diagram of a typical homemade manometer with tubing and some wood plank to secure it with a ruler for measurement...
 
I tried to make a manometer. In the end I spent 40.00 and bought one. I've used it to measure static pressure in my ducting as well as draft speeds. It's a valuable tool, and costs little compared to a service call from a hvac company.
 
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