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Post in 'The Green Room' started by kbjelka, Nov 5, 2008.
Recommendations on where to buy?
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Just ordered one...are u the seller?
If he's the seller that makes me wonder about the impartiality of his comments.
Received it and attached it to the boiler but the young electrician I had here didn't want to attach the wires. I guess he didn't have enough experience with the aqua stat.
Anyone know of someone who can do it here in Milton, Ma. I really want to get this thing connected.
I would agree, however it does appear that there are other posters in this thread that have also installed the units with good results...
I was able to wire the intellicon HW myself with help from the seller who provided a schematic for my exact aquastat.
I used the pictures in the post to help me in my install/attach to the aquastat.
Installed it last Thursday evening and I cannot believe the savings 34%. I keep good track of oil use and degree days so we'll see. I do know this, that something is going on as the area around the boiler is a lot cooler. Don't think I'm producing any unnecessary heat. I would be happy with 15 or 20% but over 30...wow
It looks like you've got the same set up as I do w/ the boiler/indirect. I opted for a NIB left-over Tekmar260, and I can't say yet whether or not I've saved anythng. The only number I'm concerned with is the one that comes at the end of the heating season. Between the wood stove and insulation I saved about 400 gallons last Winter compared to 2007-2008, and it was colder to boot.
After 2 months with the Tekmar I'd be willing to suggest the IntelliCon if the price difference was considerable. I think the Tekmar takes experience to "dial in". I also think it counts on the correct everything else to be correct, as in boiler sizing/loading and temperature delta ect.
400 gallons wow
Do you run hot water off your boiler? When you say the same set up do you have an Amtrol hot water maker?'
It looks like I'll be using 150 gallons less than last year and 300 less than '07 which was a year I didn't put in the blown in insulation and had work going on that had the doors opened a lot. Had a stove installed Aug of '08.
Geez maybe I should have had the Intellicon installed before buying the stove and adding blown in insulation,
time to watch the Pats and see if Moss is really a head case...
I used close to 1600 in 2007-08, and about 1200 in 2008-09. Big house. I've got a trianco indirect fired off a zone. Originally I started with a steel-tube boiler w/tankless, but with 5 adults + 1 kid there wasn't enough hot water so in it went. I modified the original aquastat (blue wire) and installed the indirect. If I can cut down another 100 gallons a year with the tekmar I'd be happy/surprised. Come next year I'll be changing out the main boiler to a 3 pass. Maybe not worth it, seeing how I really, really want to invest in geothermal but its in the plan.
I don't think there's any way to expect 30% from an add-on control. Just no way.
btuser, what did you do to modify the aquastat?
Let me preface the explaination with the blanket statement "don't ever modify a UL listed device because if you do and burn your house down you're dead meat".
That being said, a boiler with a tankless coil has a low limit, high limit and differential. I believe the blue wire in the auquastat is hooked to the low limit, so I inserted a small screwdriver and disengaged it from the spring clamp, capped it, and now my boiler is a cold-start. I could tell this when my boiler cooled down below 160 degrees and immediately started leaking a flange in the front of the boiler.
I replaced all my circulators and flanges over the Summer, and now there are no leaks. However, if you have a 20 year old boiler (like me) you're asking for trouble. Personally I don't care. I live on the edge. That and the Trianco is a welded steel tube boiler block. If I had a cast iron sectioned boiler (especially a weil mclain) I wouldn't have tried it.
Thanks. My Burnham V8 oil boiler is about 6 years old and is a cold start boiler with an indirect dhw tank. I just looked and the aquasat only goes down to 180F which of course disagrees (lower) with the temperature shown on the gauge. I'll be using that for the hot water heating (with priority) and the Tekmar for controlling the zone heating (I hope). Hopefully, the Tekmar will allow the boiler to be used at generally lower temperatures by specifying a lower boiler design temp. and/or outdoor design temp., while either the automatic or manual differential adjustment allow longer cycles.
cold start or temperature maintenance?
I know what the terms mean and I can guess at just what happens. How can I tell if my boiler is cold start or not I suspect that it is one that maintains it's temperature. It is pictured above in a post.
What I'm concerned about is that there is a "I savings" which refers to the last burn savings and the "A Savings" that averages it all out. I keep getting an "INVALID" reading on the I savings but it's seems to be registering an accurate 30% savings. I was told the A savings depends on the I savings so why not an I savings number instead of invalid. Anyone familiar with INTELLICON help me out here in lay man terms.