Before firing up the F500

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johnnywarm

Minister of Fire
Sep 12, 2007
1,244
Connecticut
What is there too do? i hear i might need to take off some bolts that hold the top down??

Thanks john
 
I have anew one too, yes the book says take out bolts so cleaning will be easy. Makes sense to me. I looked up in there back ones a little tight. I was going to do this now I will wait to see what sort of replys you get. Mine is green hope it performs as good as it looks.

Cpt
 
cptoneleg said:
I have anew one too, yes the book says take out bolts so cleaning will be easy. Makes sense to me. I looked up in there back ones a little tight. I was going to do this now I will wait to see what sort of replys you get. Mine is green hope it performs as good as it looks.

Cpt


I been running my F400 for two season now,if the F500 is half what the F400 is we will be warm.this will be my first year with both stoves and seasoned oak.


Are the bolts you are looking at bolt on the baffle?
 
There are two lid bolts that can be taken out to make the lid removable for easier cleaning. The lid is gasketed and heavy enough to stay in place. Just be sure the lid put back on level and square when replaced.
 
Baffle no I am not home now but the bolts they are talking about hold the oval piece on. When I looked up in there the one near the front will be easy and I cold feel but not see the one in back. Before I fire it up i will take it off and see. and use my own judgement to put them back in. I think the oval piece will be heavy enough. where the bolts are not needed. tThen when you go to clean you will have more access with a vacume.
But the bolts are above the baffle and secondary burn tubes. But I was suprised that baffle looks like particle board and I first thought it may be some kind of shipping brace but I believe it is cemented in. So when I get back home I will try to figure it out.
Seasoned wood that will be my problem this year, I have about 1 cord seasoned left over from last year and the next 2 cords will be 6 monts split stacked and the next 2 abot 5 months. I didnt know what seasoned wood was before I started reading this site.
 
[quote author="BeGreen" date="1282359269"]There are two lid bolts that can be taken out to make the lid removable for easier cleaning. The lid is gasketed and heavy enough to stay in place. Just be sure the lid put back on level and square when replaced.[/qu ote]

Thanks thats the way I see it.
 
Yes, they are talking about the bolts which hold the oval piece in place, and you can remove them. Be careful of the blanket and other easily breakable pieces just below though. You need to have these bolts out if you are running a straight chimney, so you can vacuum out the creosote after brushing.
 
BeGreen said:
There are two lid bolts that can be taken out to make the lid removable for easier cleaning. The lid is gasketed and heavy enough to stay in place. Just be sure the lid put back on level and square when replaced.



Do you need to remove the baffle to get at lid bolts??
 
I can reach around the baffle and remove the bolts on mine without difficulty, but someone with thicker forearms may have more trouble.
 
PitPat said:
I can reach around the baffle and remove the bolts on mine without difficulty, but someone with thicker forearms may have more trouble.


I'll give it a shot. how many are there?
 
Technically you don't need to remove the bolts . . . I left mine in . . . namely because I'm the sort of guy who would wear a belt and suspenders when going out in public . . . but yeah, you can leave them in or pull them out. Pulling them out now may make cleaning easier later if you need to remove them . . . although last year I easily removed my bolts on the oval plate for cleaning without needing any WD40, Liquid Wrench, etc. Afterwards I put the bolts back in . . . as I said . . . I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy.

The one thing you do want to do if this is a new Jotul is to remember to follow the break-in fire routine with smaller fires burning at X degrees for Y amount of time as mentioned in the owner's manual. Also be sure all the doors fit snugly and haven't got knocked out of alignment in shipping . . . and that the ash pan is all the way back in its housing.

Baffle . . . it's tougher than it looks . . . and rests pretty snugly (and securely) over the burn tubes . . . and the tubes protect the baffle in part . . . although I wouldn't get into the habit of tossing in splits willy-nilly . . . I am more of a open up the door and gently place the splits on the coals sort of guy . . . well that and the aforementioned belt and suspenders sort of guy.

Access . . . you do not need to or want to remove the baffle for taking out the oval plate bolts . . . I am a pudgy guy (aka fat) and I had no problems reaching in and removing the bolts.
 
johnnywarm said:
PitPat said:
I can reach around the baffle and remove the bolts on mine without difficulty, but someone with thicker forearms may have more trouble.


I'll give it a shot. how many are there?

2 on the oval plate . . . one front and one back.
 
I replaced the baffle on my Oslo. Took the top off and didn't have any problem getting bolts out. Never heard of removing the top bolts permanently, or the oval plate bolts either. I'm like the firefighter, I put all the bolts back in.
 
ansehnlich1 said:
I replaced the baffle on my Oslo. Took the top off and didn't have any problem getting bolts out. Never heard of removing the top bolts permanently, or the oval plate bolts either. I'm like the firefighter, I put all the bolts back in.

Well the manul says take out for easy cleaning. This isnt my post but all the feedback is great. Ihad just read that part in the manuel when this post poped up so I chimed in. I need to do something except admire my new stove. And how damn pretty it is and how my woodpile is growing and growing and my new woodshed got built while on vacation. I think I have some kind of addiction. Is that possible???????
I know it didnt happen without pictures well am still trying to figure that part out. Am geeting close though I can feel it hell they didnt have these things when I went to school' 1967

Cpt
 
ansehnlich1 said:
I replaced the baffle on my Oslo. Took the top off and didn't have any problem getting bolts out. Never heard of removing the top bolts permanently, or the oval plate bolts either. I'm like the firefighter, I put all the bolts back in.

As mentioned both the manual and past posts here say you can remove the bolts and run the stove that way . . . although being the sort of guy that I am I put the bolts back in.
 
cptoneleg said:
ansehnlich1 said:
I replaced the baffle on my Oslo. Took the top off and didn't have any problem getting bolts out. Never heard of removing the top bolts permanently, or the oval plate bolts either. I'm like the firefighter, I put all the bolts back in.

Well the manul says take out for easy cleaning. This isnt my post but all the feedback is great. Ihad just read that part in the manuel when this post poped up so I chimed in. I need to do something except admire my new stove. And how damn pretty it is and how my woodpile is growing and growing and my new woodshed got built while on vacation. I think I have some kind of addiction. Is that possible???????
I know it didnt happen without pictures well am still trying to figure that part out. Am geeting close though I can feel it hell they didnt have these things when I went to school' 1967

Cpt

Oh yeah . . . it's addicting . . . just wait until you start to burn and experience the joys of secondary combustion with that Oslo and all of that "glass" . . . heat and a good view to boot.

And yeah . . . once you get hooked there may be no stopping . . . you'll find yourself craving more tools of the trade, you'll go down aisles in hardware stores you never checked out before, you'll find excuses to stop by the local chainsaw shop and you'll always be thinking about gettting more wood . . .
 
You can remove the bolts or leave them in - it is your choice. The design is such because this is a requirement in some Euro countries.
 
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