Best top loading HE washer/dryer

[kettensäge]

Looking to replace a 15yr old GE washer dryer set.
These old tanks are unbreakable but use some water and electricity.

Anyone here with advice on brands to look at, where to purchase?

Must be top load.


TIA.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

We replaced our top load Gibson washer with a HE Maytag Centennial last October.

The newer units do a better job both in the water use department and in water removal during the spin cycle, that helps any dryer do its job. A number of the washers no longer have a rinse water temperature selection, which for us isn't an issue in fact rarely is the washer off the cold wash setting.

The old Gibson dryer is still cranking along.

 

[kettensäge]

We replaced our top load Gibson washer with a HE Maytag Centennial last October.

The newer units do a better job both in the water use department and in water removal during the spin cycle, that helps any dryer do its job. A number of the washers no longer have a rinse water temperature selection, which for us isn't an issue in fact rarely is the washer off the cold wash setting.

The old Gibson dryer is still cranking along.

Thanks for the rinse water temp info. My wife likes to use cold wash/warm rinse. I'm thinking it's not necessary. Technology will help make the point.
Hope I don't hear about it everytime the machine is run.

I plan on giving the old units to a relative who makes trips to the laundrymat. Only repairs were an element and belt in the dryer, hope the new machines are just as durable.

 

[semipro]

Check out the Fisher and Paykel units. I've never owned one but they seem interesting. They have no transmission to fail and use instead a radial motor and electronics (SmartDrive) for agitation and cycling. Our Lowe's carries them.

 

[Highbeam]

The new units are not as durable. I've had two service calls in the last 3 years on my whirlpool duet side load HE washer. They plug easily, and belts break. I am now a clog removal expert. The good news is that the wash machine tells you what part broke with error codes on the display. Yes, pay a couple of bucks for the extended warranty on the washer.

 

[firefighterjake]

The new units are not as durable. I've had two service calls in the last 3 years on my whirlpool duet side load HE washer. They plug easily, and belts break. I am now a clog removal expert. The good news is that the wash machine tells you what part broke with error codes on the display. Yes, pay a couple of bucks for the extended warranty on the washer.

Interesting . . . I've had a pair of Whirlpool Duets for three years . . . maybe even longer . . . I forget . . . and have only had two issues -- 1) the "fins" in the washing machine kept breaking until the engineers came out with a new design which has held up quite well and there is a plastic flange inside that broke . . . but so far despite it grenading into many small pieces I haven't noticed any leaks or problems with the washing machine. Of course the OP is asking about top loaders, not side loaders so I cannot make any suggestions except to say I didn't go with the extended warranty and things have been fine.

 

[Highbeam]

Oh and we love the dryness of the clothes out of the washer. That plus less water going into the process makes it a nice idea and I don't even pay for water, just hate wasting it. Septic system sees less flow too.

 

[ewdudley]

Check out the Fisher and Paykel units. I've never owned one but they seem interesting. They have no transmission to fail and use instead a radial motor and electronics (SmartDrive) for agitation and cycling. Our Lowe's carries them.

We've had a Fisher & Paykel washer for five years now and we're very favorably impressed. Uses 1000 rpm actively-balanced spin and therefore saves on drying energy, uses back-EMF sensing to minimize water for wash and rinse. I believe other manufacturers are now also making top-loading ECM drive washers.

Oh, and it gets clothes very clean without a lot of wear on the fabric.

--ewd

 

[kettensäge]

Thanks for all the replies.
My main concern is durability. The extended warranty is also a good suggestion, I usually avoid these with good results but in this case I agree it's necessary.

I will research and pick a F & P model and have 1 backup as well, probably Maytag/LG/Bosch. The wife is dead set against top loaders because of mold and odor issues, Tide sells a front load HE washer deodorizer so it must be a real issue. I think the top loaders would perform a little better though because the clothes can be tossed around more.

The stories about $400 circuit boards getting fried by lightning or power surges is also a concern.

Slightly off topic, anyone use a whole house surge protector for things like these?

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks for all the replies.
My main concern is durability. The extended warranty is also a good suggestion, I usually avoid these with good results but in this case I agree it's necessary.

I will research and pick a F & P model and have 1 backup as well, probably Maytag/LG/Bosch. The wife is dead set against top loaders because of mold and odor issues, Tide sells a front load HE washer deodorizer so it must be a real issue. I think the top loaders would perform a little better though because the clothes can be tossed around more.

The stories about $400 circuit boards getting fried by lightning or power surges is also a concern.

Slightly off topic, anyone use a whole house surge protector for things like these?

I heard some stories about mold/smells from the front loaders . . . but honestly that has never been an issue and my wife with her super sensitive nose would have noticed something by now . . . we do leave the washing machine door open a crack after running a load though for a few hours to allow things to dry out well.

Three years or so in . . . no issues with the electronics or circuit board . . . only on my oven range . . . and that was my fault.

To echo Highbeam . . . like him I also have my own drilled water, but I like the idea of using less water . . . mainly the idea of less water going into the septic system.

 

[kettensäge]

Thanks for all the replies.
My main concern is durability. The extended warranty is also a good suggestion, I usually avoid these with good results but in this case I agree it's necessary.

I will research and pick a F & P model and have 1 backup as well, probably Maytag/LG/Bosch. The wife is dead set against top loaders because of mold and odor issues, Tide sells a front load HE washer deodorizer so it must be a real issue. I think the top loaders would perform a little better though because the clothes can be tossed around more.

The stories about $400 circuit boards getting fried by lightning or power surges is also a concern.

Slightly off topic, anyone use a whole house surge protector for things like these?

I heard some stories about mold/smells from the front loaders . . . but honestly that has never been an issue and my wife with her super sensitive nose would have noticed something by now . . . we do leave the washing machine door open a crack after running a load though for a few hours to allow things to dry out well.

Three years or so in . . . no issues with the electronics or circuit board . . . only on my oven range . . . and that was my fault.

To echo Highbeam . . . like him I also have my own drilled water, but I like the idea of using less water . . . mainly the idea of less water going into the septic system.

Thanks Jake,
Thinking that a top load will spin better, saving electricity while a front load will wash better, saving water.

My wifes nose, or oder distinguishing abilty has been certified by the company she works for. She is a Quality Lab tech and was trained and tested to distinguish different perfume aroma qualities in order to analyze these raw materials. Gets retested every 2 years. Nothing gets past her, ever.

We live in a gated community and up to 2 yrs ago had no water meters, paid $150 every quarter for water, sewer and garbage.
Now paying $70 a month for water and sewer, Garbage now included in the yearly HOA fee. No increase.
PA electricity deregulation boosted the monthly electric bill by $30 a month, 3 yrs ago.

Working to get back to previous utility cost levels and replace aging appliances before the big kitchen remodel next spring.




Was just on the Lowes site and the reviews run 10 to 1 against F&P washers, biggest complaint is quality, now considering GE Profile, 10 to 1 good reviews.
Still looking, no decisions yet.

 

[Highbeam]

No reason to think that top loaders would spin faster or better. Given the product development R&D into all of the side loaders I would assume that the side loaders would be superior spinners. We don't have a mold problem, leave the washer door cracked.

 

[semipro]

No reason to think that top loaders would spin faster or better. Given the product development R&D into all of the side loaders I would assume that the side loaders would be superior spinners. We don't have a mold problem, leave the washer door cracked.

+1
Our front loading Bosch has no problems with mold but we do leave the door open when not in use. We've had zero problems with the Bosch and like that it was built in the USA where most other machines weren't.

 

[midwestcoast]

Another vote to not dismiss the front loaders so fast.
When our old 2nd hand washer died for good I went out looking for the most efficient washer I could get @ reasonable cost with good reliability & cleaning ability. I ended up getting a Maytag EpicZ on sale and have been very happy with it. LG, Whirlpool, GE also looked good. Clothes are cleaner, way less water used, spins at 11,500 (Edit: that should read 1,150) RPM no prob so cloths are way drier coming out (saving lots of energy in drying), less lint in drier because front loads are easier on the cloths. Also no odor issues n we leave the door open Btwn loads. A tiny bit of water will sit in the bottom of the door seal which could grow moldy if not wiped out AND the door was kept closed. The only draw back is longer wash times (about an hour/load) which is partly made up for by shorter drying times.

As for the Drier, I did similar research when the old drier motor finally died and found no significamt improvements in drier technology to justify a fan$y drier with a window in the door... to match the washer so just went with a cheap model. The gas valve needed replacement soon after install (on warranty). Since then 1 year with no probs. Not encouraging though.

 

[Swedishchef]

I have heard the Whirlpool Cabrio's are great units.

However, I am not a fan whatsoever of these fancy machines (my wife certainly is).

So you save 30 minutes on a dryer cycle. Maybe 40. On a 4400 watt heater that is about 2.93 KWh. With the electricity rates where I live, I would save about 19-20 cents per wash. Yet the washer costs $800 and my cheap washer cost me $300 and washes great! I would need to do about 1500 loads for it to break even. I only do 4-5 a week, that means I would have the washer for 5.7 years before breaking even. And most times, there will be a problem between now and 5.7 years from now.

A good friend of mine is a technician for home appliances. He said it's simple: the average appliance now lasts about 7 years. They are simply not built like they used to. Things that spin water at 1000-10000 RPMs and have electronics to control them are counter intuitive. And now it's simple: a service call and a $400 electronic board is almost not worth fixing, might as well get a new washer. Kinda like ink jet printers.

Just my thoughts!

Andrew

 

[midwestcoast]

I paid less than $600 for mine, delivered, vs $4-500 for similar sized top loader. Prices for both likely higher in CDA. Also factor in the water savings and energy to heat the water (unless you use all cold all the time), energy to pump it if on a well, sewer charges if on municipal, less detergent used n less wear on clothes. Correct me if I'm wrong, but electric rates in Quebec are about the lowest in North America? I don't really know, but expect rates in PA to be much higher, maybe double.

 

[Swedishchef]

HEy Midwestcoast

That is a great price for a washer. The one my wife wanted was like $800!

We always use cold water. I find with the Tide Cold Water everything (stains) come out pretty darn good.

You're right, Quebec electricity rates are some of the lowest in North America. They are lower in some places but I think my average rate is 6.8 cents / KWh.

Isn't the high efficiency detergent more expensive than the "normal" stuff? Just wondering. I don't know much about the washers: we looked at getting one a few years ago and at $1500 for the set I said no thanks...

Andrew

 

[kettensäge]

I just locked in 13.5 cents/ KWH, was 14.5, Not including taxes or other charges. Before deregulation it was around 8.5.
Good thing is various improvements have knocked my monthly usage from 1000 KWH per month in 2002 to about 680-700 a month currently.

I am leaning towards a GE profile pair. Top load, but will ask my wife to consider a front load washer. Her sister has one and it does have the odor issues, needed the pump replaced twice due to loose change getting in it (not the washers fault). Not sure of the brand.

 

[Burn-1]

Another option to consider are the top loading horizontal axis machines made by Staber

I've seen several of these in solar homes since they're so energy efficient.

Edit: They were also featured on 'How it's made' on the Science channel

Staber - How it's made -Youtube

 

[kettensäge]

Thanks to all who replied.
I have purchased a set of GE Profile laundry machines at Lowes.

Sale ended yesterday, got 10% of the washer.

The wife was dead set against a front load washer, and GE appliances have served us well for many years so I think it was the best choice.

Had to special order both and it will be about 10 working days until they arrive.