Best way to seal exhaust on insert?

[DemonGT]

i have a pelpro bayview insert that is installed in what i think is referred to as a built in? it looks like a fire place but isnt?

after pulling the stove out at the end of last season iv been having trouble with a smokey smell coming out of the heating tubes. my guess is a exhaust leak. i did put some flue tape around it as best i could but once the insert is in place there is barely enough room for one of my arms to fit behind the stove. it looks like whoever built it framed the stove in not giving much room. was wondering if there is a better/easier way to seal the exhaust or if i should try to come up with a way to make the opening bigger?

here are a few showing the space etc.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e90/DemonGT410/IMG_9462_zpsc160a1be.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e90/DemonGT410/IMG_6153_zpscf45d29a.jpg

now here is the thing, if you look at this pic you can see the mantel above the stove has the two support
brackets. those supports are connected to the studs that are framing in the left/right sides of the stove. i was originally just going to use a sawzaw and cut the hole bigger on the left side but there is that stud there that connects to that mantel support...so im not sure if its possible to cut it out and reattach that stud a different way?

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e90/DemonGT410/IMG_3624_zps584e9e68.jpg

 

[tsmith]

Use hight temp red RTV sealant on pipe.

Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket
OEM specified. Formulated for hi-temp applications, or heavy-duty use (such as towing, etc.). Replaces almost any cut gasket by making reliable “formed-in-place” gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating caused by thermal cycling. Coats pre-cut gaskets to increase reliability. Temperature range -65ºF to 650ºF (-54°C to 343°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids. First generation 1970-1980 gasket maker.
Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission

 

[DexterDay]

Without using High temp silicone, you will always a have smoke smell.

The only way to properly seal the stove adapter to the combustion blower collar, is High temp.

Seems we went over this. High temp on Stove adapter and Foil on all others. High temp foil tape is not acceptable on the adapter. When the tape was suggested, it was suggested for ALL joints, except the adapter.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/smell-smoke.84044/

 

[JBiBBs5]

Aluminum HVAC duct tape.

 

[DemonGT]

Without using High temp silicone, you will always a have smoke smell.

The only way to properly seal the stove adapter to the combustion blower collar, is High temp.

Seems we went over this. High temp on Stove adapter and Foil on all others. High temp foil tape is not acceptable on the adapter. When the tape was suggested, it was suggested for ALL joints, except the adapter.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/smell-smoke.84044/

i should have mentioned that when i had the stove pulled out i RTV'ed the adapter onto the stove itself. its the connection from the adapter to the outlet pipe im having trouble with.

im thinking my only option for a correct seal is to figure out a way to remove that stud to make enough room
so i can get behind the stove better. i guess i thought maybe there was some kind of trick where you put the RTV on the pipe outside and then slide the pipe through the wall onto the back of the stove.

 

[Fish On]

Inserts look awesome, but there a pita to work on no matter what u do..

use high temp rtv and just slap it on,i mean like put a bunch in hands latex gloves on and just smear the stuff all over. its not going to look nice but who cares no one is going to see it..

mine looks like a 3 year did it!

 

[flynfrfun]

If your exhaust goes straight out the wall of the house, I would permanently install the pipe to the stove. As you slide the stove back into place, the exhaust will go thru the hole in the side of the house. Then you can always disconnect the joints on the outside of the house prior to sliding the stove in or out for maintenance. Leave the stove sealed to the horizontal run at all times. This way you can seal the stove adapter real nice with RTV while the stove is out, then push the stove back in lining up the exhaust with the hole in the wall.

The Enviro M55 and Harman Accentra inserts have a sliding rail system where the insert is on ball bearing wheels. Makes maintenance very easy, probably easier than freestanding stoves. They have a "docking station" setup where the exhaust seals when fully inserted and latched. I can't imagine having an insert w/out this feature. But, if I were in your shoes, I would do as I suggested above.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

You should be able to remove the flange (2 bolts -See Yellow Arrows) where your exhaust is connected, then you can pull the stove out. Make sure the gasket on the flange is good. Some Lytherm gaskets fall apart easily. I cut a new white gasket and installed it on this stove. See red arrow. Also make sure the stove adapter is sealed with silicon to the stove flange. See other red arrow.​

Also make sure the flex pipe is properly sealed to the rigid pipe.​

Click on pic to enlarge.​

 

[DemonGT]

If your exhaust goes straight out the wall of the house, I would permanently install the pipe to the stove. As you slide the stove back into place, the exhaust will go thru the hole in the side of the house. Then you can always disconnect the joints on the outside of the house prior to sliding the stove in or out for maintenance. Leave the stove sealed to the horizontal run at all times. This way you can seal the stove adapter real nice with RTV while the stove is out, then push the stove back in lining up the exhaust with the hole in the wall.

The Enviro M55 and Harman Accentra inserts have a sliding rail system where the insert is on ball bearing wheels. Makes maintenance very easy, probably easier than freestanding stoves. They have a "docking station" setup where the exhaust seals when fully inserted and latched. I can't imagine having an insert w/out this feature. But, if I were in your shoes, I would do as I suggested above.

this is a good idea, i just dont know what i would set the stove on that would be the same height as my hearth so i could get the stove slid back in. not to mention how dang heavy it is.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

Patio blocks work!

 

[Fish On]

Hello

Patio blocks work!

Tell me you don't use patio blocks when you go to someones house to clean an insert Don!

 

[flynfrfun]

this is a good idea, i just dont know what i would set the stove on that would be the same height as my hearth so i could get the stove slid back in. not to mention how dang heavy it is.

A simple framework of 2x4 studs built to the right height works. Some felt or carpet to lay on your nice wood flooring would be a good way to keep from scratching the floor. This way you can slide the stove all the way out and maintenance will be much easier.

 

[briansol]

I try to disconnect my pipe as little as possible. I try to use the quick-release cut out shortcut when ever possible to clean. I also try to not move the stove too much. I've become very good at 'seeing with my hands' as i'm shoulder deep in the fireplace. lol I rtv'ed the hell out of my pipe and i occasionally still smell a bit of oder. Mostly when it's on low. I've yet to narrow it down where it's coming from. I'll probably re-rtv the whole thing agian. It looks like a bad weld i have so much snot on it now. heh